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How To: Dash Cam

Hudson

New Member
For Aussies in South Australia I found “micro 2 fuse taps” AC476060-A2D5-4A73-9771-81E96F60FC95.jpegat Sprint Auto Parts in Modbury and Golden Grove. Although Modbury is now sold out!
 

NULLOBANDITO

Moderator
Staff member
Thanks Bu11et.

Very interesting. There must be LHD & RHD versions of the sensor cluster. Mine (Australia) has the sensors swapped around from yours. This means that the Blackvue foot (which sticks to the windscreen) sits right in front of the slots at the bottom left of your cluster (bottom right for mine, when sitting in the car). There’s a sensor that seems to be looking through those slots and also some slots immediately below it.

Would be good to know what sensors live in the cluster under that cover!

H.
Gotten the info a while back, there's a sensor for the automatic windscreen defogger. Might not want to place the dashcam directly there.
 

JackM90

Active Member
I used this to install my dashcam today. Was definitely an easy one.
Used the black headed bolt that's under the dash side trim panel for connecting my ground to.

Was an easy simple install. Much nicer than having a stupid cigarette lighter cable hanging about.
 
Fot the guys in the UK im sure there will a MOT fail if mounted within the wiper sweep.

yes you can unplug for the MOT but some are hardwired and stuck in place

Really!? :p I would have thought it has to be in the wiper sweep, reason being if it rains then your dashcam can still get clear image? Otherwise footage will be blurry due to wet windscreen? Lol or am I wrong :p
 

Howy

Active Member
What is the weather strip?

I installed the Hardwire-Kit for my DDPai Mini3 today. According to the manual there. A couple of pages ago, there was a discussion about hardwireing that specific cam that if I recall correctly wasn't successful because of a missing fitting fuse tap.

Well I ordered a set of Micro2 fuse taps @ Amazon.

The DDPai Hardwire-Kit needs 3 cables to connected. Ground connection, Permanent + and Ignition +

At first it was a little challenging to find the right fuses to use, because appearently Ignition + isn't real Ignition + on the N for all fuses... Some stay alive for some time after you stop and lock the car.

Finally I decided to tap the permanent + to the seat actuators fuse and the ignition + to the power outlet fuse.

Seems to work.

So the dashcam records normally as long ignition is alive. When ignition is off, the cam keep recording in timelapse mode until a (chooseable) voltage of the battery is reached, and then it shuts the cam off completely.

Fingers crossed, that my car will start tomorrow ;)

Have you got a photo showing which fuses you connected to?
 

TeJay

New Member
I tried this today... All fitted perfectly as described, however no power! :confused:

Tried the 20A fuse too because that says 'power outlet' on the fuse diagram but to no avail
... any ideas?
 

Mightymoo

Well-Known Member
I succesfully completed the mounting of a Blackvue front dashcam today. Used it together with the Power Magic Pro to the fusebox. I cut and soldered all wires for a perfect fit for the car (optional, but to much excess wire for my taste).

Some observations:

1. This thread is very useful :) Thanks for all advice and comments!

2. Routing the wire behind the airbag IS IMPORTANT! A-Pillar cover was easy to open to route wire behind. Don't be lazy and skip this step. I used double sided tape strips to secure the wire to the car frame next to the airbag. I struggled getting the A-pillar cover to click back in place, though. EDIT: A quick and firm “knock”/push in the middle of the A-pillar cover clicked it in place...

3. When connecting wire to ground, I used the 10 mm headsize bolt on the side of the dash. Don't be tempted to use the screws, they do not connect to ground...

4. For "constant power" I first used the interior light fuse. But the Power Magic Pro box turned itself off every time I locked the car and the light dimmed. Not sure if it is voltage drop or what. I am using LEDs. After changing to the fuse for the "front driver seat", everything has been fine.

5. For "Ignition power" I used the spare 10A just to the right of the ON/OFF switch.

6. If you like soldering, I would recommend trimming and soldering the wires for a more clean look, less wire mess and potential rattle/noise.

7. I mounted the Power Magic Pro directly under the fuse box door. Perfect place to put it for easy wiring and reachability. Used the self-tapping screws in the kit to secure the box.

8. WARNING: When mounting the Power Magic Pro, keep it away from the driver knee airbag. You do not want to be hit by a flying Power Magic Pro when the knee airbag goes off.
 
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Bu11eT

Well-Known Member
8. WARNING: When mounting the Power Magic Pro, keep it away from the driver knee airbag. You do not want to be hit by a flying Power Magic Pro when the knee airbag goes off.
What I did was mounting my Power Magic Pro box exactly underneath the fuse holder box (So that it sits against the plastic of the lower driver dashboard). Doing it that way makes it still accessible to you via the footwell but it's still hidden from plain sight
 

Mightymoo

Well-Known Member
I have decided to also mount a rear dash cam.

I have watched a lot of how-to videos on Youtube and shocked by many of the instructions on where to put the cord/wire :eek:.

On our Hyundai i30N there are side airbags all the way from the front A-pillar and all the way past the rear passenger. These airbags are placed in the roof lining. It is hard to tuck the wire safely behind them because of how they are positioned, especially on the panorama roof. Just tucking them loosely under the roof lining on the way forward will create a dangerous situation during airbag deployment!

I have inspected optional ways to route the wire via the bottom of the door frame, and the news are good.

You can do a clean install all the way from the back to the front cam without starting to rip out the interior. You only need to lift/move the rubber seals on the front and rear door frame and lift the A-pillar cover. Will do an installation this weekend.

If there is any interest, I can document with pics of the installation.
 

Jonesy

New Member
I have decided to also mount a rear dash cam.

I have watched a lot of how-to videos on Youtube and shocked by many of the instructions on where to put the cord/wire :eek:.

On our Hyundai i30N there are side airbags all the way from the front A-pillar and all the way past the rear passenger. These airbags are placed in the roof lining. It is hard to tuck the wire safely behind them because of how they are positioned, especially on the panorama roof. Just tucking them loosely under the roof lining on the way forward will create a dangerous situation during airbag deployment!

I have inspected optional ways to route the wire via the bottom of the door frame, and the news are good.

You can do a clean install all the way from the back to the front cam without starting to rip out the interior. You only need to lift/move the rubber seals on the front and rear door frame and lift the A-pillar cover. Will do an installation this weekend.

If there is any interest, I can document with pics of the installation.
I would be interested in your “idiot guide” of instructions and pictures, got bought a nextbase rear cam to match the hard wired front cam I installed by following this thread,, can’t see how to get the cable to the hatchback window without it dangling across the boot opening,,
 

Mightymoo

Well-Known Member
I would be interested in your “idiot guide” of instructions and pictures, got bought a nextbase rear cam to match the hard wired front cam I installed by following this thread,, can’t see how to get the cable to the hatchback window without it dangling across the boot opening,,
I will not use the rubber tubes on the tail gate, because it is to much to disassemble and one of the harder tubes to access.

Still I have a way to do it which will look decent (hopefully ;))

Man purpose is safe routing and a pretty clean look.

Will post pics when done.
 

Mightymoo

Well-Known Member
Bad news on the installation. When I was about 75% complete with routing the wire via doors, I found out the wire was to short!!! :oops: (installing Blackvue DR900S 2ch). Rookie mistake. I has sure it was long enough.

Had to undo everything and routed the classic way via the roof. The roof lining is more flexible than I originally thought and you can push the wire carefully behind the side airbags with a flat hand.

Lesson learned: When doing the install make sure to push the cord as far in as you manage behind the airbag pillows. Should be safe. Don’t just tuck the cord right under the rubber seal.
 

Jonesy

New Member
Bad news on the installation. When I was about 75% complete with routing the wire via doors, I found out the wire was to short!!! :oops: (installing Blackvue DR900S 2ch). Rookie mistake. I has sure it was long enough.

Had to undo everything and routed the classic way via the roof. The roof lining is more flexible than I originally thought and you can push the wire carefully behind the side airbags with a flat hand.

Lesson learned: When doing the install make sure to push the cord as far in as you manage behind the airbag pillows. Should be safe. Don’t just tuck the cord right under the rubber seal.
How did you get the cable to the tailgate window from inside the roof lining, did you hide it or is it loose hanging out across to the glass?
 

Mightymoo

Well-Known Member
I did partial hiding, but did not go via the rubber ducts. The rubber ducts are tight and hard to access. Both are pretty far in on the roof and difficult on the other side too.

Will take some pics of the install when I have time.
 

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