My fianceè got me a front and rear nextbase dashcam for Xmas and after looking through this post was able to get it hardwired in today although i couldnt use the spare 10amp fuse as in the first post as didnt have any power. Found another one thats been used in this thread and boom it all works so thanks for all your posts it reallh helped and made it an easier job than expected
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I used the fuse you have listed as Ignition OFF, i have noticed tonight my camera seems to be constantly on is that correct or should it only work once i unlock the car/power the car up?
I would change it, if it’s on when the car is off you will more than likely end up with a flat battery
So far it seems to be fine regards to Battery. I think it does actually go off just as soon as i unlock the car its powered on.
Going to attempt installing my new Blackview DR900X2ChPlus cameras, Blackview B-124X External battery and CM100LTE Module in my i30 Sedan N this week, fingers crossed all goes well... will update as I go.
So I installed my Vantrue X4S-Duo yesterday and still have some trouble routing the cable for the rear camera.
I routed the cable like so (I am a paint professional, don't judge):
red is where the cable is underneath the plastic parts, not visible.
green is where it comes out and is visibly going into the camera.
The problem that I have now is, that I can see the center breaking light in the whole rear window at night
because the cable is lifting up that middle plastic part.
Any suggestions on how to route the cable better?
I routed the cable like so (I am a paint professional, don't judge):
red is where the cable is underneath the plastic parts, not visible.
green is where it comes out and is visibly going into the camera.
The problem that I have now is, that I can see the center breaking light in the whole rear window at night
because the cable is lifting up that middle plastic part.
Any suggestions on how to route the cable better?
I'd try routing outside the brake-light housing in a similar way to how it's done now. May just be enough to not cause any problems with the brake.
Hey guys,
I got one problem with my dashcam, maybe one of you knows something.
I hardwired my cam to the 7.5 Amp A/C fuse, and it does get power when turning on the engine.
But it does not automatically start. I still have to press the power-button to get the camera to start.
Dashcam is the VANTRUE X4S Dual. Did anyone get a similar behaviour? Did I hardwire it to the wrong fuse maybe?
I got one problem with my dashcam, maybe one of you knows something.
I hardwired my cam to the 7.5 Amp A/C fuse, and it does get power when turning on the engine.
But it does not automatically start. I still have to press the power-button to get the camera to start.
Dashcam is the VANTRUE X4S Dual. Did anyone get a similar behaviour? Did I hardwire it to the wrong fuse maybe?
To follow up on this:
I tried the car-adapter again today and it worked. Power outlet puts out 11.35V.
The camera immediately did turn fully on and started recording.
When I connect it via hardwirekit it only goes into stand-by (red light is on) but it does not fully turn on.
I tried multiple fuses (from 7.5A A/C to 20A Power Outlet) without difference.
I tried the car-adapter again today and it worked. Power outlet puts out 11.35V.
The camera immediately did turn fully on and started recording.
When I connect it via hardwirekit it only goes into stand-by (red light is on) but it does not fully turn on.
I tried multiple fuses (from 7.5A A/C to 20A Power Outlet) without difference.
Usually you just have to get the correct fuse.
In my Blackvue at least, it has uses two power sources.
An always on and an accessory. By monitoring both sources, it can tell if the car is parked or driving.
Doing a quick google for your dashcaml, it appears it works the same as the Blackvue and has parking/driving modes so it seems strange it doesn't start recording as soon as it gets the power.
Are you sure the red LED doesn't mean that it is recording?
Does it give some kind of indication that it is going from park mode to dirving (a beep, change of LED, voice etc)?
In my Blackvue at least, it has uses two power sources.
An always on and an accessory. By monitoring both sources, it can tell if the car is parked or driving.
Doing a quick google for your dashcaml, it appears it works the same as the Blackvue and has parking/driving modes so it seems strange it doesn't start recording as soon as it gets the power.
Are you sure the red LED doesn't mean that it is recording?
Does it give some kind of indication that it is going from park mode to dirving (a beep, change of LED, voice etc)?
I don't use it in park mode, the hardwire kit has just one connection either to always on or accessory.
I have connected it to a fuse that gets power when I start the car.
The red LED means stand-by. When it fully starts up, the screen turns on once, shows recording and turns off again.
I did get in touch with support and tried a couple things. The camera does fully turn on when I use the car adapter for the power outlet in the dash. Power outlet puts out 11.35V (ignition on) so that's probably kinda normal.
So they are going to send me another hardwire kit as they suspect it might be defective - this is gonna take 2-3 weeks as it's coming from china...
I have connected it to a fuse that gets power when I start the car.
The red LED means stand-by. When it fully starts up, the screen turns on once, shows recording and turns off again.
I did get in touch with support and tried a couple things. The camera does fully turn on when I use the car adapter for the power outlet in the dash. Power outlet puts out 11.35V (ignition on) so that's probably kinda normal.
So they are going to send me another hardwire kit as they suspect it might be defective - this is gonna take 2-3 weeks as it's coming from china...
For the front camera, there a 10 pin connector from Dongar Technologies that allows a direct connection without tapping the fuse panel and running wires to it.
dongar.tech
Dongar Classic — Plug & Play Dash Cam Power Adapter | 18W USB-C
The original mirror tap dash cam adapter. 18W true USB-C output (5V/9V/12V) through your auto-dimming rearview mirror. Plug & play with 400+ vehicle-specific harnesses. No cutting, no fuse tap, no splicing. 3-year warranty.
dongar.tech
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I know this is a few years old but i ran into the same problem tonight, the trim wouldnt go back on and i tried looking online everywhere with how i can take it off then finally figured it out. For anyone who experiences this problem, you have to lift up the plastic trip and squeeze it then push it down. There will be some sort of clip that needs to sit in place.
Hey All, I've installed Dash Cams before but never on a car such as this. i need to locate a good constant supply fuse that i can piggy back off of and also an Acc for the Blackvue 2ch i had purchased. could you please help me with what you have used or what fuses you recommend?
thanks all!!
thanks all!!
DONGAR TECH;
dongar.tech
Doesn’t need a fuse connection.
Dongar Classic — Plug & Play Dash Cam Power Adapter | 18W USB-C
The original mirror tap dash cam adapter. 18W true USB-C output (5V/9V/12V) through your auto-dimming rearview mirror. Plug & play with 400+ vehicle-specific harnesses. No cutting, no fuse tap, no splicing. 3-year warranty.
dongar.tech
Doesn’t need a fuse connection.
