Wrong - in Poland it cost about 80 złotych = 17 euro but in Germany 10-15 euro for sticker and 70-80 euro for emission test.
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Kamyk's i30N PB Performance Pack
- Thread starter kamyk155
- Start date
Ok guys - the time has come.
Saturday 7th of may - my trip to Germany will start.
Two days of riding and on 9th of may - MTT tuning time.
I'm shaking like a kid waiting for a candy - my goal is 400HP+ and anything above that will be just a pure magic.
Because my trip is soo long - I will stay in hotel one day longer to do tests of the car by myself.
First day for installation of the parts, 2nd for tuning and testing and 3rd day for my personal driving around and tests before long trip to home.
Saturday 7th of may - my trip to Germany will start.
Two days of riding and on 9th of may - MTT tuning time.
I'm shaking like a kid waiting for a candy - my goal is 400HP+ and anything above that will be just a pure magic.
Because my trip is soo long - I will stay in hotel one day longer to do tests of the car by myself.
First day for installation of the parts, 2nd for tuning and testing and 3rd day for my personal driving around and tests before long trip to home.
Few things happend:
1 - my original ecu was blocked somehow for erasing and was write protected by my previous tuners - Markus sold me another ecu and programed on it
2 - i wanted to do the program for ron98 fuel because in Poland we have shell racing 100 ron as maximum but only on fewer stations
3 - i needed to decide - use ron100/102 to make a program here and see good results but return to home fill 98 fuel and have problems with the car because of the weaker fuel..... Engine knocking, missfire or stuff like that.
The decision was to do ecu for 98 fuel to be safe and to avoid problems.
The result is only 380PS....
Today I will test the car by myself.
1 - my original ecu was blocked somehow for erasing and was write protected by my previous tuners - Markus sold me another ecu and programed on it
2 - i wanted to do the program for ron98 fuel because in Poland we have shell racing 100 ron as maximum but only on fewer stations
3 - i needed to decide - use ron100/102 to make a program here and see good results but return to home fill 98 fuel and have problems with the car because of the weaker fuel..... Engine knocking, missfire or stuff like that.
The decision was to do ecu for 98 fuel to be safe and to avoid problems.
The result is only 380PS....
Today I will test the car by myself.
I arrived to home - 1300km without any problems. Car is fast and pulling hard on every gear.
The biggest difference is on higher speeds - 5/6 gears are still pressing driver into the seat.
Max speed before tuning on the way to Markus was 255km/h and after tuning I can't go faster than 250km/h only (I tried few times) because of bigger trafic on the roads.
No CEL or stuff like that, no turbo limp modes - everything is great.
Soon I will try to test the car on my dyno with better fuel (ron 100 shell racing) and will cut the oem filter box to provide more airflow because Markus told me that the oem box inlet is a limiter too even with my velossa tech snorkel.
Oil cooler works great - I drove for most of the time in Germany with speed about 140-150km/h and in Poland 120-140km/h and temperature of the oil was about 1cm from 100*C. If we see that first line is 50*C and next is 100*C the reading was about 80-85*C max with that speeds I wrote above.
Quick picture with new turbo and blanket installed :
Picture of downpipe :
And dyno final score :
I saw a great info after some time on Markus instagram - someone asked him about better fuel on my car and he answered that with RON 100 fuel the power should be 390PS, with RON 102 fuel about 400PS.
Temperatures were high on the testing - so winter with RON 100 power should be close to 400PS too.
Last info was that my turbo have much more power but it is limited by fuel mostly.
The biggest difference is on higher speeds - 5/6 gears are still pressing driver into the seat.
Max speed before tuning on the way to Markus was 255km/h and after tuning I can't go faster than 250km/h only (I tried few times) because of bigger trafic on the roads.
No CEL or stuff like that, no turbo limp modes - everything is great.
Soon I will try to test the car on my dyno with better fuel (ron 100 shell racing) and will cut the oem filter box to provide more airflow because Markus told me that the oem box inlet is a limiter too even with my velossa tech snorkel.
Oil cooler works great - I drove for most of the time in Germany with speed about 140-150km/h and in Poland 120-140km/h and temperature of the oil was about 1cm from 100*C. If we see that first line is 50*C and next is 100*C the reading was about 80-85*C max with that speeds I wrote above.
Quick picture with new turbo and blanket installed :
Picture of downpipe :
And dyno final score :
I saw a great info after some time on Markus instagram - someone asked him about better fuel on my car and he answered that with RON 100 fuel the power should be 390PS, with RON 102 fuel about 400PS.
Temperatures were high on the testing - so winter with RON 100 power should be close to 400PS too.
Last info was that my turbo have much more power but it is limited by fuel mostly.
you'd need something like this: https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/bu11ets-melody.3147/page-16#post-102111
or a different airbox design
I saw that part in Markus workshop - I'm thinking about 90-120mm hole in box bottom with someking od computer fan cover.you'd need something like this: https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/bu11ets-melody.3147/page-16#post-102111
or a different airbox design
Few years ago I cut the holes under my laptop to provide air flow and I used metal grills like this:
Yep, I sent it to him after he asked for one. In general just cutting the airbox will help the engine get more air, disadvantage to just cutting a hole is that the engine can then pull warm air. But should be sufficient for testing its effect.
Yes but he told me that open intake is the best for the turbo even including the problem with heat from the surround the closed bonnet. Because I spent too much money for intake, turbo inlet and transparent box cover it will be better to cut the box.
I'm thinking about some kind like this cut - round or square:
I'm thinking about some kind like this cut - round or square:
Last edited:
Tomorrow I will check the power scores one more time but this time on my MAHA dyno.
I will use this time better fuel (ron 100 shell v-power racing) and before cutting the intake box I will do dyno test with closed box and with open - to see any differences. If it will be none or minimal - oem box will stay without cutting the hole.
Here are some better pictures of turbo and pump:
I think that open access to downpipe looks bad but Markus told me to left it like this.
I have spare 1 meter of easy bending thermal cover but still thinking about it.
I had it covered like this before:
Any suggestions ? Try to cover it or not ?
I will use this time better fuel (ron 100 shell v-power racing) and before cutting the intake box I will do dyno test with closed box and with open - to see any differences. If it will be none or minimal - oem box will stay without cutting the hole.
Here are some better pictures of turbo and pump:
I think that open access to downpipe looks bad but Markus told me to left it like this.
I have spare 1 meter of easy bending thermal cover but still thinking about it.
I had it covered like this before:
Any suggestions ? Try to cover it or not ?
does your dyno have sufficient air turbines to push air into the intake? Not talking the small ones as Markus has but way bigger ones. Otherwise you will not see a big difference either way.
Markus says a more air is needed since he is measuring the negative pressure build up in the airpipe. It's a recommendation to make life easier for the turbo - it does not necessarily has to have a big impact to the power figures. I'd cut it open either way just so you don't punish the turbo as hard.
You can cover it if you want, but it should not make a difference. Your exhaust manifold also is not covered and has similar temps under load.
I didn't see Markus dyno but I think it is the same MAHA with that front smaller fan in front of the car grill.
Here are small pictures from the internet of mine dyno point:
If we talk about downpipe - so better to left it like that if temperature is not a problem.
In meantime I cut the hole in the stock airbox:
I think this solve eventual lack of air in the box and negative pressure.
I know that it will take some hotter air from under bonnet but only when car will not move.
The hole is about 1/3 bigger than stock intake because it is a full square not rectangle.
I think this solve eventual lack of air in the box and negative pressure.
I know that it will take some hotter air from under bonnet but only when car will not move.
The hole is about 1/3 bigger than stock intake because it is a full square not rectangle.
