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Maybe with some electronic you see better results. A bigger throttle body only gives you better results with bigger Turbos.
Possibly but I'm sorry but a larger TB provides much more air and better throttle response. These are just two of the benefits of a larger TB. I have a much larger throttle body and far better throttle response and torque with the OEM turbo. What accomplished with a larger throttle body, is far more intake air and CFM that enters the cylinders. Add both intake manifold and TB spacers and you get much better air equalization to the cylinder and a smoother air flow.

With a larger TB there are appreciable gains in hp up to and beyond 10 whp.

@Bu11eT you're knocking on the door of 300. You tuner is correct, a tune is needed to realize the full capability of the bolt ons.
 
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Finally 3d printed myself the adapter for the engine cover. If you remember, only 3 of the 4 mounting pins for the engine cover fit on my car, since I am running the Boomba Intake Manifold Spacers in combination with the Forge Dual Catch Can. Here's my solution:
8w668jb.jpg


1.) The issue
2.) My 3d printed part and one of the rubber-thingies used to mount the engine cover (Got an additional one from Hyundai). You mount this rubber-thingy into my 3d printed part as can be seen on the left hand side. Right side is only the rubber-thingy.
3.) Mount everything on top of the stock mounting point
4.) Put the engine cover back on and mount it to the 3d printed part. The 3d printed part now acts as a spacer.


I need to make sure it does not get too hot under there. If it does, I may need to switch to a stronger filament which can withstand the heat.


Also, I ordered my track rims 😍:
autec-typ-cr-clubracing-schwarz.jpg


Autec Type CR - ClubRacing in 8.5x18 ET45 in matt black. Only 8.5kg per wheel and price is just slightly over 200 bucks per wheel!
 
Whiteline Anti-Roll and Anti-Lift are in 😍
Quite a bit of work to get the Anti-Roll stuff in place, as you have to lift the steering assembly to place some spacers there.

Here are some pics where the corresponding parts got mounted:

Anti-Lift (spacers are on top):
LsQhZJC.jpg



Anti-Roll (the three spacers are mounted below the steering assembly):
pH0z1jX.jpg



I am bit bummed because the work for the Anti-Roll was a bit more than anticipated. I could have installed a front anti-roll bar in the same move, as the steps are very similar - well, maybe next time :/

In terms of driving behavior I noticed an immense change from the Anti-Lift. It does exactly what it says: There is literally zero lift of the front when accelerating hard - it is just glued to the road. Would not have imagined such a change after I've done new tires and the torque mount already 🤯.

The impact of the Anti-Roll is not that big. During daily driving you are not noticing it.
You can however notice it during fast bends (like 10-20° corners), especially when you take them hard and fast. The Anti-Roll can counter the movement of the chassis now and you don't have any body roll.
But as soon as the corner gets sharper, the Anti-Roll is at it's limit and the body roll is back. Only a proper Anti-Roll Bar will fix this I think. So I have to add a new part to my to-do list 😆

What I also found interesting, due to the change of position for the steering assembly, the turn in behavior changes as well. It feels quite a bit more direct and responsive.
 
Finished my first bigger project - an additional intake snorkel for my N :)

Actually @Mr.Bubble gave me the idea as he is currently running an extra hose down from the airfilterbox, but his hose was just hanging down next to the front wheelwell.
Since I wanted something a bit more integrated I set off and tried to design an adapter part which would mount to the front under the driver-side DRLs. Obviously I had to cut the plastic a bit more open to allow air to flow in, but once done it looked like this:
nlROXYQ.jpg


After about 8 or 9 prototypes my 3d printed part finally fit. I ordered some 76mm hose with a steel spiral as well as some clamps. Here's the part I designed:
oSZhHPL.jpg


It mounts flush against the front utilizing the stock screws and the stock mounting plates.
rItxisN.jpg



Afterwards I cut a hole in the airfilter box and flattened the cross-bracing pattern on the inside:
H7do8pH.jpg


And then I could insert my next 3d printed part - actually 2 parts: The upper one is the funnel which mounts flush against the inside of the airfilter box. The second part is the lower mount for the hose which is screwed onto the top part. I put an additional O-Ring seal in between to make sure no air can escape.
I also included a mesh in the design to make sure no bigger objects (leaves and such) would be pushed into the airfilter box. The two parts looked like this after I was done with the design:

atcc4mm.jpg



And here's everything mounted:
KlT6hTh.jpg


Next steps are to upgrade my printer to enable me to print with even stronger (and better looking) materials. The prototype material does however hold up fine. Multiple 250kmh+ tests have already been performed :D.

This was the first time I did such a big project. From 3D-Scanning to CAD-Modeling to 3D-Printing to mounting everything in place. Was lots of fun (although I had a few sleepless nights when stuff wouldn't fit 😁 )
 
You can additionally use a wire mesh screen over the inlet to keep varmints from chewing thru the plastic grate as pictures. It won't hurt performance either. The airbox fixture obviously threads into itself, so it will stay tight?

I really like what you did here. It ought to really help you get some good clean cooler air into the air box. Wonderful job!!!:)👍
 
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You can additionally use a wire mesh screen over the inlet to keep varmints from chewing thru the plastic grate as pictures. It won't hurt performance either. The airbox fixture obviously threads into itself, so it will stay tight?

I really like what you did here. It ought to really help you get some good clean cooler air into the air box. Wonderful job!!!:)👍

Thanks mate!
I did not want to have anything directly in front of the snorkel as it just looks ugly imo :D
Thats why I want to explore materials which are a bit sturdier just to improve the longevity of the snorkel :)

The airbox fixture stays tight because the rubber o-ring puts the pressure on the lower part, so the stuff can't move. I will however observe it and make improvements if necessary!
 
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Thanks mate!
I did not want to have anything directly in front of the snorkel as it just looks ugly imo :D
Thats why I want to explore materials which are a bit sturdier just to improve the longevity of the snorkel :)

The airbox fixture stays tight because the rubber o-ring puts the pressure on the lower part, so the stuff can't move. I will however observe it and make improvements if necessary!
I'm sorry, I meant at the bottom of the air box, where the CAI inlet is with the small grate. If one gets in the duct, this way with the wire mesh in place they won't get into the bottom of the air box. Just a thought as mice can and do chew thru plastic.

I know, one chewed the wiring harness on my sons Kia. It's a soy based wire covering and they think it's food. New coil plug receptacle patched in was the fix. I had to do a temporary repair, sodder in a wire and close off the others, just to get the car running and to the dealership.
 
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I'm sorry, I meant at the bottom of the air box outlet where the small grate is. If one gets in the duct, this way with the wire mesh in place they won't get into the bottom of the air box. Just a thought as mice can and do chew thru plastic.

I know, one chewed the wiring harness on my sons Kia. It's a soy based wire covering and they think it's food. New coil plug receptacle patched in was the fix. I had to do a temporary repair, sodder in a wire and close off the others, just to get the car running and to the dealership.
ah gotcha, that's a good point. Actually I wanted to place a wire mesh previously but since I couldn't find a nice place to mount it, I decided to 3d print this grate. Maybe it's a good idea to glue the mesh onto the 3d printed grate, what do you think?
 
How does the upper part of the air box inlet mate to the bottom part?

If there is enough room or space, this is there I'd put the wire mesh if accessible. :) 👍
 
I'm no expert but I saw something similar in the Yaris GR4 (see below) being developed and it was considered to be of no benefit. Given the air has to do a right angle to head towards the turbo wouldn't this lower it efficiency/clash with the normal intake?

I don't want to be a downer, it looks awesome I just don't want you to go through so much effort in vain.

 
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