i30 N Bu11eT's Melody

[project_.time]

On Sunday I finally got to pick up my N-Lady from the Workshop again

Disassembly

It started off with disassembly which we did a few days prior. Had to remove my strut-brace again, so we could remove the stock heat-shield.
Also, getting out the second lambda-sensor was a real pain in the a$$, luckily my mate from MotorKrep had the right tools at hand, so we could get it out in one piece.
Here's a small gallery with the stock components and their measurements:

https://imgur.com/a/nhAydKH

Assembly

After Mr. MotorKrep himself welded everything specced to the car we went ahead and reassembled everything...
The assembly-process went butter-smooth no hiccups or issues whatsoever.
A few pics of the new components and their measurements.
You can see, that the inlets have been worked out way smoother than on other downpipes, there is nothing standing in the direct flow of the exhaust gases.

https://imgur.com/a/JjIw9k1

Result

First, a pic of the MotorKrep Downpipe compared to the stock one:

After initial startup you could definitely hear a difference to the stock exhaust. Keep in mind, the GPF is still in place and it improved the stock sound significantly.
It got a bit louder and the sound changed to be a tiny bit more aggressive, I'd describe it as "a bit more rough". The pops & bangs as well as the burbles all got more and also a bit louder.
In terms of performance the gain is gigantic (if I may say so ), my N feels like a different car!
Above 4k RPM the car just pulls and pulls and pulls. We even measured 100-200 km/h times, they improved from 18.5s to 16.8s just by installing the Downpipe.
So not only does it feel faster, it IS faster

To conclude this, I am super happy with the new Downpipe it improves the performance of the car, it is well-engineered and it improves the sound as well
To finish things off, here's a little before and after sound-wise:

To the guys asking whether this is legal in Germany, here's the answer:
Similar to the Downpipes from FMS or HJS, the core of the GPF does not get touched at all.
The only thing we are doing, is to improve it's performance by letting more exhaust-gases reach the outer cells of the GPF.
That way, we can make it work more efficiently and it decreases the pressure built-up from the exhaust gases.

In terms of the Cat, the stock Cat for the i30N is identical between the Non-GPF and the GPF model.
Thus, taking the ECE-approved HJS Cat and installing it into the GPF model is not an issue.

Wenn ich richtig verstehe ist diese downpipe also als ein Baugleiches Element laut Typgenehmigung zu verstehen und somit eintragungsfrei? Oder gibt's von Mr. Krep entsprechende Unterlagen zur Eintragung dazu?

Sorrry dass ich dich gerade so mit Fragen bombardiere :'D bin gerade frisch dazugekommen

 

[project_.time]

Although I did not have any warranty-related issues I would say it highly depends on your dealer.

I've heard from a few friends that one had no issues at all when he needed to change the rear muffler, the dealer even re-fitted the aftermarket exhaust tips to the new muffler.

Another one (at another dealer) had his warranty claim denied.

But I personally would risk it for the looks alone. Initally I wasn't convinced changing them - but it looks just shit with my diffusor if I would've left them stock

Yeah I think we can all agree that the Stock Tips are a Design Misshap from Hyundai

 

[project_.time]

Wenn ich richtig verstehe ist diese downpipe also als ein Baugleiches Element laut Typgenehmigung zu verstehen und somit eintragungsfrei? Oder gibt's von Mr. Krep entsprechende Unterlagen zur Eintragung dazu?

Sorrry dass ich dich gerade so mit Fragen bombardiere :'D bin gerade frisch dazugekommen

@Bu11eT sorry das ich störe könntest du zum Thema downpipe Eintragung deine Erfahrung teilen?

 

[Bu11eT]

Wenn ich richtig verstehe ist diese downpipe also als ein Baugleiches Element laut Typgenehmigung zu verstehen und somit eintragungsfrei?

Sorrry dass ich dich gerade so mit Fragen bombardiere :'D bin gerade frisch dazugekommen

Ja genau. Ich bin da aber ehrlich gesagt kein Experte, einfach mal _motorkrep_ auf Instagram anhauen, der wird dir das im Detail sagen können. So nun back2english

 

[Bu11eT]

(Post 1/2)

Yesterday and today it was Boomba time

A mate installed the Boomba Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Spacers for me and the next day I took care of a bit of cleanup work with the Forge Dual Catch Can and my oil cooler.


First, the Boomba spacers:
In order to get both of them installed, you obviously have to remove the intake manifold, including all those pesky wires and connectors. You also have to get yourself a dremel to cut one of the clamps because it is secured with a seal to prevent anyone from tampering. If you cut it a bit you are able to loosen it with a screwdriver.

With the intake manifold removed, it then looks like this:

You then just put on the boomba spacer and then you can reassemble everything again:

But before doing that I was curious about the carbon build-up after 35k km on my inlet-valves.
Here are the pics, from left to right:

After assembly I now was able to successfully mount the original Forge adapter for their catch can - now there is lots of space to easily do so

After assembly we noticed its quite a challenge to put the engine cover back on so we left it off and I drove home for the day...

 

[Bu11eT]

(Post 2/2)

Next day I took care of the routing of the tubes for the forge catch can.
I redid everything and now it looks neat and tidy and the engine cover also nearly fits (3/4 pins fit, the 4th one won't because of the manifold spacer, I may 3d print an adapter for that):

After that I went ahead and took care of the next small issue we discovered:
The sandwich plate oil adapters started to become loose because the oil lines were able to move freely.
So I went ahead and designed and 3D printed some clamps.
(left side the final piece, right side a prototype):

Those were then mounted in the front and on the underside like so:

This should take care of the issue and it also looks neat and tidy again

 

[NULLOBANDITO]

Put the front back on again?

If no: cut-out intercooler grille!

 

[Bu11eT]

Put the front back on again?

If no: cut-out intercooler grille!

Its already back on , don't even have anything written on my Intercooler, so I don't really bother to be honest

 

[NULLOBANDITO]

Its already back on , don't even have anything written on my Intercooler, so I don't really bother to be honest

But it looks cooler

 

[Bu11eT]

But it looks cooler

maybe next time. also thinking about cutting the fake grills in the back, maybe I do the front then too. Right now I like it how it is

 

[R Veloster N]

(Post 2/2)

Next day I took care of the routing of the tubes for the forge catch can.
I redid everything and now it looks neat and tidy and the engine cover also nearly fits (3/4 pins fit, the 4th one won't because of the manifold spacer, I may 3d print an adapter for that):

After that I went ahead and took care of the next small issue we discovered:
The sandwich plate oil adapters started to become loose because the oil lines were able to move freely.
So I went ahead and designed and 3D printed some clamps.
(left side the final piece, right side a prototype):

Those were then mounted in the front and on the underside like so:

This should take care of the issue and it also looks neat and tidy again

Good job!!! I'm also utilizing the same hose clamps. makes a great difference in where the hoses are and to stay in place. I utilized a old trick of double zip tying. However, the clamps work better and don't succumb to heat.

 

[Felix]

I'm curious what is the point of installing the a spacer?
The catch can + oil cooler look great. Maybe something that will find its way into my N as well .

 

[R Veloster N]

Manifold and TB Spacers;

-adds air volume to the cylinder head.
-Smooths Air Flow to the cylinder head.
-Increases throttle response
-Increases hp & Tq
-Improves MPG
-Builds boost earlier

 

[Bu11eT]

I'm curious what is the point of installing the a spacer?
The catch can + oil cooler look great. Maybe something that will find its way into my N as well .

2 Reasons:

- trying to find out what it brings power-wise (in actual numbers). Gonna do another dyno run after lockdown to compare
- to fit the original Forge adapter since I absolutely dislike the solution Forge came up with to solve the fitting issues. I just looks ugly IMO.

 

[Felix]

Thanks for your explanations, @R Veloster N and @Bu11eT !
Would be good to see the numbers on the dyno. When searching the net I found answers ranging from "great improvements" to "snake oil". I reckon the truth lies somewhere in between

 

[Bu11eT]

Thanks for your explanations, @R Veloster N and @Bu11eT !
Would be good to see the numbers on the dyno. When searching the net I found answers ranging from "great improvements" to "snake oil". I reckon the truth lies somewhere in between

exactly what I found, there is a dyno sheet on the boomba website, but I was looking for something independent and found none. So I am quite keen to get it on the dyno
But yeah.... Corona sucks...

 

[R Veloster N]

I can't post dyno results for the TB and Manifold Spacers, I cheated. I have a bored throttle bod installed.
Boomba Racing Website;

 

[Bu11eT]

So yesterday I installed my Maxton Design Front Splitter and today it was Dyno time with some interesting results...


Maxton Front Splitter
I ordered the Maxton Design Racing Durability Front Splitter, cause I really like that "minimalist" look. It's not too over-the-top as some of their other designs are imo.

Thought to myself "let's quickly install this one, should be a fast one since it's just a splitter"....
Well ... it took 2 hours, because the splitter did not fit at all. I needed to do some cutting otherwise the angle of the splitter would have been super weird. No idea why Maxton advertises it as a perfect fit if its just the opposite. The ends marked in red on the pic below are the ones I needed to cut to make the fit perfect.

So after the cutting (tried a jigsaw first, very bad idea , a handsaw works way better!) I mounted it with the help of a good friend and after it was done and our fingers hurt (jeez, we had -10C, why do I always have to mount stuff to my car when it's freezing?!), I was happy with the end result!

---


Dyno run #2

Initially I wanted to do another dyno run to compare the effect of the Boomba IM and TB spacers.
Unfortunately this did not work out as planned. We did not achieve any difference in performance to the last run although it was 15C colder outside. This lead us and the guy from the dyno to the conclusion, that the stock ECU software is at its maximum capacity and does not allow any additional performance gain.

The dyno sheet:

The dyno video:

https://imgur.com/e3XE2RB

 

[jcbg1975]

Maybe with some electronic you see better results. A bigger throttle body only gives you better results with bigger Turbos.

 

[Bu11eT]

Maybe with some electronic you see better results. A bigger throttle body only gives you better results with bigger Turbos.

what do you mean by electronic? You mean a tune?