i30 N Bu11eT's Melody

[Bu11eT]

I'm no expert but I saw something similar in the Yaris GR4 (see below) being developed and it was considered to be of no benefit. Given the air has to do a right angle to head towards the turbo wouldn't this lower it efficiency/clash with the normal intake?

I don't want to be a downer, it looks awesome I just don't want you to go through so much effort in vain.

You are totally right. My setup should not bring any direct performance benefit. I mainly did it because I like to tinker and I also have a few buddies who are planning to run higher power figures.
I believe the stock air setup (to provide air to the airbox) is not perfect with higher power numbers.
Of course I cannot prove this, but I don't think more air in the airbox would create any downsides, since the stock intake and turbo inlet already limit the amount of air that can reach the turbo.

In my opinion the two bottlenecks with the stock air system are a) the turbo inlet and b) this little snorkel-like thingy which is supposed to provide air to the airbox. Both may work with stock power figures but why not tinker a bit to improve things?
I solved b) with my setup and a new turbo inlet will follow soon as well

 

[Bu11eT]

I'm no expert but I saw something similar in the Yaris GR4 (see below) being developed and it was considered to be of no benefit. Given the air has to do a right angle to head towards the turbo wouldn't this lower it efficiency/clash with the normal intake?

I don't want to be a downer, it looks awesome I just don't want you to go through so much effort in vain.

but thanks for posting this video, maybe I will get myself a hand on a few temp sensors to check the scenario discussed in the video on our Ns as well

 

[nyhok]

but thanks for posting this video, maybe I will get myself a hand on a few temp sensors to check the scenario discussed in the video on our Ns as well

No problem, I hope you're onto something cause the gains made can be pretty good and in the case of the Yaris stop strange design decisions for the sake of cutting costs (i.e. the hot intake flap to get more air to feed the turbo but it is warm air)

 

[Bu11eT]

No problem, I hope you're onto something cause the gains made can be pretty good and in the case of the Yaris stop strange design decisions for the sake of cutting costs (i.e. the hot intake flap to get more air to feed the turbo but it is warm air)

yeah just watched the video. does the Yaris really pull warm air directly out of the engine compartment?! That really is a crazy design decision. I now really hope my design doesn't introduce that much of warm air to the intake system. In theory it shouldn't since the air is originally coming from the front and only has to pass shortly through the lower engine compartment. But now I am keen to measure it

 

[R Veloster N]

Sure it does and not what you've made won't. You have positives air coming into the air box which is in the incoming air stream without an additional opening or air flap. The secondary is pulling air in from the engine compartment, you're is not.

He clearly says, the secondary tubes pull air into the intake from the engine compartment. Again yours doesn't and pulls air from the outside of the engine compartment.

 

[Bu11eT]

Sure it does and not what you've made won't. You have positives air coming into the air box which is in the incoming air stream without an additional opening or air flap. The secondary is pulling air in from the engine compartment, you're is not.

He clearly says, the secondary tubes pull air into the intake from the engine compartment. Again yours doesn't and pulls air from the outside of the engine compartment.

Exactly my thoughts. But nevertheless I want to grab some temp sensors now

 

[Bu11eT]

Just chatted with @Felix and he just remembered me that I forgot to post some infos about my sound system upgrade - so here we go:


Sound upgrade came in around November last year, so I think I can give a few long term insights as well
The system was planned and installed by a local Hi-Fi specialist, we went there with 3 Ns (2 Hatchbacks, 1 Fastback). The two Hatchbacks got a Stage 1 Soundsystem installed, the Fastback got a Stage 3.

My Stage 1 included:
- DSP: Mosconi PICO 6|8
- Front system: Audiofrog G60S
- Subwoofer: Audison APBX10S
- Cables specifically made for the i30N to prevent any kind of cutting
- Dampening

(just FYI, Stage 2 would include an additional rear system, Stage 3 would be an additional amp to give the subwoofer more juicy juice)

The install went hyper-smooth, the car was two days with them.

We had a few planning sessions beforehand where the Hi-Fi Shop even showed use a few "special options" to integrate the sound system even better in the car. In the end we settled with two custom-made mods:
1. Custom tweeter housings, as the stock housing with the grate above them are just atrocious to the sound.
2. Custom subwoofer mounting brackets to loose as little under-trunk space as possible.

Tweeter housings:

3d designed by the Hi-Fi shop and then crafted from MDF (I think?). Afterwards I let them cover it up with a bit of Alcantara, and the tweeter-ring got also painted black.


Subwoofer-Mount:

They modified the subwoofer so it would fit to a custom-made mount. It locks the subwoofer in place okay-ish, I 3d-printed a small piece which would apply pressure to the subwoofer so it wouldn't move at all. Improves the bass quite a bit . And I can still utilize my full trunk space as the trunk-floor still fits as it should.

The DSP was mounted in the passenger footwell right behind the plastic of the center console.

After the setup was done I wasn't super happy with the sound, because the tweeters were setup way to aggressively for my taste. So I visited my buddy @Mr.Bubble and we did a bit of magic-calibration for the speaker system (Thanks again for that!). Super easy with the Mosconi-DSP. Now everything is to my liking, the bass kicks good and the fronts play as they should - and the whole setup does not even add that much weight (not that I care too much since I got myself a sunroof-spec car )

 

[Bu11eT]

Yesterday I got around mounting my Liteblox LB20XX. I ordered it without the generic liteblox mount, as my buddy offered to weld one for me. The battery saves about 18kg, in my opinion you don't really notice the weight saving tbh. For me the reason to get it was the built-in theft protection.
It has two modes: AVAT and IKOS.

IKOS (INTELLIGENT KILL OPERATION SWITCH):
Offers the ability to deactivate the LITE BLOX via the integrated power switch unit. A good feature when you are storing your car for a longer period. Just one press of a button and the whole car is without power.

AVAT (ACTIVE VEHICLE ANTI THEFT):
An integrated effective guard function, that protects from car theft by automatically deactivating the LITE BLOX in case of an unauthorized starting attempt. With this function being active, minor electric loads like headlights, radio or interior lighting can still be used. As soon as the current drawn from the LITE BLOX exceeds this threshold (e.g. when starting the motor), the LITE BLOX immediately deactivates itself before the starter receives enough energy to start the motor. In order to be able to draw a current from the LITE BLOX after this event, it has to be reactivated via the LITE BLOX Remote app by pressing the ‘Reset Error’ button (chapter 5.6.5).

Whilst my car is parked in my personal Garage most of the time, during Non-COVID times my car is often parked at the airport due to work assignments I have to take. That's why I am so keen on this anti-theft feature.
And yes I know, you can never fully proof a car against thieves, but I think this one is quite a big challenge for thieves to overcome when they want your car.

Since I now have that much more space in the engine compartment, I may need to rethink my approach of using an aftermarket intake. I think I need to build something on my own here to make proper use of the gained space. Just a thought right now, but I may pursue it

 

[NULLOBANDITO]

Since I now have that much more space in the engine compartment, I may need to rethink my approach of using an aftermarket intake. I think I need to build something on my own here to make proper use of the gained space. Just a thought right now, but I may pursue it

ITG CAI mounted to an intake hose without the last bend to where the airbox is?

 

[Bu11eT]

ITG CAI mounted to an intake hose without the last bend to where the airbox is?

yeah good idea, however I would like to encapsulate the liteblox in an airbox to keep the engine heat away from it. Also, I'd like to utilize my additional front mount intake as well as the velossatech-snorkel. I'm thinking about 3d printing something, but not sure yet

 

[nyhok]

All that space , I wish Eventuri did and intake for the car

 

[Bu11eT]

All that space , I wish Eventuri did and intake for the car

you're not alone with that wish

 

[Fatbob]

Just out of interest how much diffrence in weiggt and performance was the light box, i saw them.advertised the other day @ motor krepp.

 

[Bu11eT]

Just out of interest how much diffrence in weiggt and performance was the light box, i saw them.advertised the other day @ motor krepp.

my original battery was about 20kg, the LB20XX weighs 2kg. Motor Krep is my buddy, his pics are of my car

 

[Fatbob]

Um roughly a hour away from them landkreis celle

 

[Bu11eT]

Yesterday my eibach front anti-roll-bar was installed together with the Audi RS brake ducts recommended by @TarmoT

The ARB install went quite smooth, nothing special to note. I set it to the hardest setting for the front (back is medium). Was not expecting such a big change in driving behavior, the car does not really lean that much into hard corners anymore which makes driving around backroads ways more fun. Kinda dumb of me to not do this mod sooner.

The brake duct install was kinda fishy, we weren't sure how to mount it so it won't touch other parts. Also, we are unsure of how effective it'll be, since the stock brake heatshield is kinda in the way of the airflow now. But yeah, they were just 30 bucks so I don't really mind. I'm gonna leave them on there until they break off.

Got a trackday scheduled together with @Felix for July, so until then I'll try to get everything TÜV approved (front splitter, track wheels as well as the front ARB)

 

[Bu11eT]

Daily driving this car in combination with modifying it now came along with a few issues I've had. Some of which I fixed already, others are still on the To-Do list...
Thought it would make sense to talk about some negative things as well and not just highlight the best stuff

Just as a disclaimer, most of these issues came up because of my own idiocy - but I still love this car


ATH rear diffusor
This one was a big bummer as this thing is not really considered cheap. I drove backwards over a dirt road to turn the car around. Upon driving forwards again I heard a big bang and it happened. Broke a small part of the diffusor off, cracked it and ripped half of it off.

Managed to glue it back on (see white spots on the pics) as well as glue on the broken off piece. However there is still the crack in it and I think its damaged beyond repair (from a financial standpoint at least).
My plan is to get a new one (unpainted this time, as this thing is bloody expensive!) and have it painted by a local shop. But before that I am planning to get a protective sheet of metal put under the car so that I do not have the diffusor poking out therefore protecting it from being torn off again.

Front Bumper
Since owning the car I estimate I removed the front bumper about 15 times already, now I had to pay for it. The side clips welded to the front bumper used to secure it (between the headlight and wheel) broke off resulting in the bumper not sitting flush against the fender. Well, luckily I got that 3d printer at home, so off I went to repair it. Came up with this:


Not the prettiest solution, but it does the job and is even sturdier than the stock part

And now everything sits flush again, was a 2h job including measuring, designing, printing, remeasuring etc:

Front undercover
But when working on the front bumper I discovered a hole where none should be:

Again, this is solely my fault as the undercover came off quite a few times as well. Should have used loctite for the undercover screws as I already lost some of them due to just driving around. Seems they just don't sit as well after they have been removed a few times. So heads up to you guys: When you remove the undercover, make sure to use loctite when putting the screws back in! I already ordered a new undercover and new Non-OEM bolts to fix this issue.

 

[loafer-N77]

@Bu11eT nice workaround with the 3d printed bumper parts

I've only had my bumper off once and did not feel confident that those clips will last long!

 

[Bu11eT]

@Bu11eT nice workaround with the 3d printed bumper parts

I've only had my bumper off once and did not feel confident that those clips will last long!

yep, I didn't feel confident about them either, was kinda expecting them to fail at some point.
They are only 2mm in thickness and they break super quick. Had the bumper off for the first time at a buddy's car and 2 clips snapped immediately although we were super careful and used silicone spray on them.

So on the upside I wasn't super mad when mine broke off cause I was expecting it, on the downside they still broke off

 

[Dj_Nick]

How you have glued 3d printed clip to the bumper?