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Racechip Development for the i20N

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After driving the car for almost 5 months now, I would say I will not chip tune it. Now I understand better what Hyundai wanted to achieve on this little engine

Low to mid range is a bit above average but as you increase revs the engine gets better and better, far better that my previous 208 GTi by Peugeot Sport

I think this is the best setting for a race track and fast road, low a bit everyday living and mid to top end like a motorbike, this engine loves to be reved
 
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Of course using 98 or 100 RON ... and since I have driven then demo demo car on 95RON ... the difference is well noticable
 
SteveDek said:
Of course using 98 or 100 RON ... and since I have driven then demo demo car on 95RON ... the difference is well noticable
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make dyno comparision on 95 , 98 and 100 ;)
Once I tried at my car 98 RON adding +4 octan booster , at dyno there was 1bhp more but this could be measuring error
 
It takes a while for the ECU to adapt to fuel, recall that WRX STi I was running it has been almost instant the change, but other cars I had took them 200km + sometimes
 
Racechip offers a discount of 100euro to their product gts. What do you guys think?
Will the chip be detectable from Hyundai (data log history of the ecu), if we pull it back when we go for service?
 
Any piggy tuner can be detected; if the tech wants to look deep enough. Boost logs are generally one of the first area they look at, if they have a suspicion. However, what’s not in place, they‘re unable to certify it one was used. The sensor can be fooled but the ECU will log any over-boost condition from OEM specification.

I don’t care what Racechip or any other piggy back manufacturer claims. They‘re detectable if a service department or even Hyundai wants to look deep enough and requests the ECU for a warranty claim.

The DTUK and GTS have a Removable Din Plug for the actual harness. Just remove the control unit and put the din plug in place, without having to remove the entire harness. The din plug needs to be hide well. Zip-tie the GTS wiring harness neatly on the OEM harness generally suffices and is fairly undetectable.

However, there are a few techs who are really savvy and will look. Either way, it’s always a gamble. Personally, I take full responsibility for what I do rather authorized or not. I’m always up front with them.👍🇺🇸
 
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R Veloster N said:
Any piggy tuner can be detected; if the tech wants to look deep enough. Boost logs are generally one of the first area they look at, if they have a suspicion. However, what’s not in place, they‘re unable to certify it one was used. The sensor can be fooled but the ECU will log any over-boost condition from OEM specification.

I don’t care what Racechip or any other piggy back manufacturer claims. They‘re detectable if a service department or even Hyundai wants to look deep enough and requests the ECU for a warranty claim.

The DTUK and GTS have a Removable Din Plug for the actual harness. Just remove the control unit and put the din plug in place, without having to remove the entire harness. The din plug needs to be hide well. Zip-tie the GTS wiring harness neatly on the OEM harness generally suffices and is fairly undetectable.

However, there are a few techs who are really savvy and will look. Either way, it’s always a gamble. Personally, I take full responsibility for what I do rather authorized or not. I’m always up front with them.👍🇺🇸
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I’d expect Hyundai warranty to request a data log for any engine failures, and probably go through it very thoroughly.
As you say, I would expect them to be able to see values outside of the factory expectations - whether that be fuelling, boost pressure etc - and would know it had been chipped even without any physical evidence.
Interestingly Racechip do claim to provide an engine warranty though…
 
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R Veloster N said:
Any piggy tuner can be detected; if the tech wants to look deep enough. Boost logs are generally one of the first area they look at, if they have a suspicion. However, what’s not in place, they‘re unable to certify it one was used. The sensor can be fooled but the ECU will log any over-boost condition from OEM specification.

I don’t care what Racechip or any other piggy back manufacturer claims. They‘re detectable if a service department or even Hyundai wants to look deep enough and requests the ECU for a warranty claim.

...

However, there are a few techs who are really savvy and will look. Either way, it’s always a gamble. Personally, I take full responsibility for what I do rather authorized or not. I’m always up front with them.👍🇺🇸
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And that is precisely the crucial point here: if you want to make changes to your vehicle, you can of course do so at any time, but you should also take responsibility for your actions afterwards if something goes wrong. We are all adults here and if you make a conscious decision to do so, you must ultimately also be prepared to bear the consequences. Apart from that, I think all these boxes are the worst thing you can do to your car. But that's just my personal opinion.
 
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My 2 friends had boxes in vw audi group 1,6 and 2,0 tdi engine cars , both turbocharges got failure for about 1000km (of course they used top lvl of power)
You don't know what afr , boost , knock will be with such tool , when in normal chiptuning , tuner measure all this features and sets safe setup
 
gpaaa said:
Racechip offers a discount of 100euro to their product gts. What do you guys think?
Will the chip be detectable from Hyundai (data log history of the ecu), if we pull it back when we go for service?
Click to expand...
I think what in other dates... Blackfriday or similar the chip will be to discount too... I don´t know if such but maybe...
 
has anyone try racechip in his i20n, so as to enlight us all? Fitment, impressions, easy of use, performance wize?
 
Toxic said:
I suggest you read Fran’s post on th Hyundai i20N Facebook group and it’s entitled thread. He has used both Racechip GTS and JB4’s modules.

Facebook

www.facebook.com www.facebook.com
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As i have no facebook account, could you be kind enough to send a copy please?
 
gpaaa said:
As i have no facebook account, could you be kind enough to send a copy please?
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That post was roughly two weeks ago and it was the day after a slalom hill climb event which I participated in.


"Thoroughly tested it yesterday, 9am to 2pm slalom event. The highest power setting (there's race, sport, and eco) which you can fine-tune and race is set to 7/8 originally. I bumped it up to 8/8 and N mode.

Engine would have definitely gone if something wasn't 100% with the racechip, I'm more than happy with it. Ultra clean install too!

Had JB4 before and they're really close. JB4 is more customizable and offers logging and custom maps since it's plugged into the OBDII port. Racechip is set and forget.

Thoroughly impressed with both chips, setting the tune back to stock feels like eco mode 🤣

Highly recommend the Bluetooth model so you can hide the racechip behind the original ECU so absolutely nobody can see anything, it looks completely stock and you can control it from your phone."

I just updated the post with this comment:

"
Update: did several laps on the Nürburgring oover the past few days and it was 34C outside, oil temp went to 118C max, I asked the official N Taxi drivers and they said it's normal, to worry about 125C oil temp.

Water temp was roughly 104-106 and cruising on the autobahn at 200-215km/hr (with a full car) for five minutes nonstop showed oil temp of 96C and water temp od 87C.

I'm convinced that my engine would have gone by now if something could have been damaged.

Nürburgring laps were on Race setting with max power (setting 7) and the rest was in Sport setting with power setting 5."
 
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