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Racechip Development for the i20N

My friend, i will copy once again your original post, so as all users to see it clearly that your original question what not only about the shape of the curve below 2500, (which nobody cares and i told you that the user of the dynamometer did not press the pedal to the metal) but you directly implied that car jackals, cheated with the dyno, because they could offer a discount of 10% on Dte product. And all that assumption was coming from someone who was whispering in your ears!
The person who owns the dyno, was choosen randomly, he is not a distributor of racechip or Dte. Car jackals, found a man who has a dynometer for many many years, and asked hin to make the comparison and comment on the shape of the curves, He mentioned both good and bad for DTE and Racechip too. Last but not least, we have measure 3 other cars in diferent dynos, with racechip, and the shape of the powerboand is the same. They produce from 206 to 209 horsepower as stock and the shape of the powerband does not change.
You entered forum 30 days ago, when the car jackals published their "research" on Youtube, and in your first post here, (this thread i will copy it in the end), you direclty imply that car jackals were payed from Dte to present their results, because ...they offer a discount on DTe products!! Here is your first post
"
Here is what is really strange.

The first chart is from the RaceChip's video and the lines look as you would expect them in terms of how they relate to the thin stock readings. But in the Car Jackals' video below the RaceChip's lines for both power and torque are exactly the same as the stock ones all the way up to 2700 rpm. What is happening?

A tin foil hat on my head reluctantly whispers in my ear that in the info for both DTE vs RaceChip videos on their channel you can find a code or something to get a small discount for the DTE products. Normally content creators get something if their code is used by clients."

So combining all the above, i strongly believe that its you who defend racechip. If you want to contribute to the forum, make your own "research" spend your own money, make the results repeatable with 2 or 3 independant cars, AND CONTRIBUTE TO OUR FORUM -N-cars.net" even if you offer a discount on behalf of powerchips.

My own contribution will be to measure using a tech edge wideband on the street, the real air fuel ration of the car for ECO, SPORT AND N MODE, both stock and tuned, so as users to see how their cars deal with air fuel ration in all of the above mods.

Cheers

I guess you are paying more attention to my tin foil hat theory then I do apparently. This whole angle is not the focus of my attention. The identical lower rev curve that is not supposed to be like that is. I saw what you said about it and replied that I cannot make sense of what you are saying there. Language wise exclusively.

I am not really convinced that RaceChip needs me or anyone else to defend their product. I am merely replying to the random negativity that you keep bringing up even though it is not connected to the question I am asking. My curiosity was and is attracted by this one thing and you just stormed in yelling "RaceChip bad because one, two, three, four, five".

Claims from companies are often optimistic. Manufacturers, tuners, whatever. But it's funny that apparently a person looking for actual objectivity in data "doesn't like data coming from a neutral source", some charming logic. Please stop trying to win an argument that does not exist without you forcing it.
 
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Okay. Mods? This guy is getting a little intense and is just straight up lying to those reading that my post in the beginning of this "discussion" was the first on the forum which is untrue. I've been here and there in both the i20N and the i30 threads. But apparently I must be either a RaceChip fan boy or an employee. I mean if the guy bothered to check out my profile it's rather easy to click on my activity and it's there. And you can as well check that I have been looking for practical information and not ramping up forum posts so that one day a month later me doubting that video would look legitimate. This is hilarious.

Seriously, I was reading an another thread here not long ago and stumbled upon a piece of a several page long internet drama thinking to myself "no way this could happen to me". But here I am now. 😐

And why the heck would you not press the pedal down in the range where the stupid thing is supposed to be working already? Peak power is not all there is. And could it not influence what happens a bit after?

I have not implied anything but asked the forum members what is up, why would the tester let the curve chill or what else could be a reason there. Reluctantly pointing out the coincidence that these guys are running a promo code for one product while the other product's chart behaves like it behaves. In an obviously joking manner. But who knows at this point.

Who is that we in your story about measuring three other vehicles? Are you partial to their channel? Can you then share those measurements? Why demand me to contribute to "your forum" when it seems like you already have some useful observations?

🤷‍♂️
 
Meanwhile the subject of my curiosity remains on open question to me. Any ideas? Tin foil hat theories put aside. But you could probably say that I do question the integrity of that testing because I see no reason to not accelerate properly. Or to not redo the pull if it was an unintentional thing. I mean there is no way doing it like that is beneficial to the accuracy, right?
 
IMO, it has to do more with personal expectations then anything else. It’s engineered and designed to give a boost in power. Certainly not the most but If you’re satisfied with what it provides, then more ”power to you.” Pun intended!😉👍🇺🇸
 
Today I drove the car on national road (quite rare for me!) and tested to check peak boost on N mode. So 5th gear, +-2000rpm, Racechip GTS on default factory setting 5 (never changed since installed!) and ... 1.2bar for almost 3 seconds with the small yellow overboost indicator enabled aside the boost measure on the dash ...

I think 1.2bar is safe and the car pulls quite nice ... so personally I will not change the Racechip GTS setting to 6 or 7 ...
 
Good morning SteveDek,

I confirm what you reported, even on my i20N I kept the factory settings of the Racechip GTS module.
Ciao
 
Today I drove the car on national road (quite rare for me!) and tested to check peak boost on N mode. So 5th gear, +-2000rpm, Racechip GTS on default factory setting 5 (never changed since installed!) and ... 1.2bar for almost 3 seconds with the small yellow overboost indicator enabled aside the boost measure on the dash ...

I think 1.2bar is safe and the car pulls quite nice ... so personally I will not change the Racechip GTS setting to 6 or 7 ...
1.2 bar is VN plenty safe in this engine. Anything below 1.53bar (22 psi) is safe. Over this not so much for the turbocharger seals.

Most piggyback tuners, air on the side of conservative with all sensory input. They’re not tuned for peak whp.👍🇺🇸
 
Today I drove the car on national road (quite rare for me!) and tested to check peak boost on N mode. So 5th gear, +-2000rpm, Racechip GTS on default factory setting 5 (never changed since installed!) and ... 1.2bar for almost 3 seconds with the small yellow overboost indicator enabled aside the boost measure on the dash ...

I think 1.2bar is safe and the car pulls quite nice ... so personally I will not change the Racechip GTS setting to 6 or 7 ...

Hello Steve, i dont think that there are visual display boost pressure changes between stock and Racechip ecu programs. If you deactivate racechip Gts and do the same test back to back at the same roads, boost pressure values will be the same, although racechip delivers in reality 0,1-0,2 bars more.
I have observed with the stock program 1,3 bar boost pressure and the green small turbine light on for 3-4 seconds, many times, mainly with 6 gear around 2500-3000, uphills putting the pedal to the metal.
 
I have the Racechip GTS with app control and did some 50-80mph runs in 3rd gear, accelerating from a steady 40mph on every run and on the same bit of road, these are the results below. Car pulls harder all the way and as can bee seen by the times a lot more consistent, I am very pleased with mine.
*side note, car had full tank of fuel, is fitted with a resonated GPF delete and pipercross panel filter.
 

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Has anyone seen this video? You can use the subtitles automatically generated and translated if you don't speak German.


I stumbled upon it randomly and never before saw any discussion here or somehow elsewhere honestly about the possibility of getting knock caused by using a box. Turns out that conversation actually exists. And then there are also AFR problems possible as well. And whatever else that could be affected by the fact that the ECU systems are not receiving the actual picture and therefore are not adjusting something that needs adjusting.

I wonder if this is anything to worry about in case of our car. This guy has a number of reassuring things to say.


But here is the thing about all this content. The guy bashing the boxes is offering remaps (could be deliberately using 95 RON instead of 98) and it seems like the guy countering the concerns is selling boxes apparently. Does anyone have any input on this? If you already own a box unit how was your experience. It's been a while since anyone shared anything.

Obviously there is always debate about how effective these things are and how truthful the claims are. But it is worrying quite a bit to find out that there is also a topic of "is it safe" on top. Especially when it was never a point of concern before.

Thank you. Cheers.
 
Has anyone seen this video? You can use the subtitles automatically generated and translated if you don't speak German.


I stumbled upon it randomly and never before saw any discussion here or somehow elsewhere honestly about the possibility of getting knock caused by using a box. Turns out that conversation actually exists. And then there are also AFR problems possible as well. And whatever else that could be affected by the fact that the ECU systems are not receiving the actual picture and therefore are not adjusting something that needs adjusting.

I wonder if this is anything to worry about in case of our car. This guy has a number of reassuring things to say.


But here is the thing about all this content. The guy bashing the boxes is offering remaps (could be deliberately using 95 RON instead of 98) and it seems like the guy countering the concerns is selling boxes apparently. Does anyone have any input on this? If you already own a box unit how was your experience. It's been a while since anyone shared anything.

Obviously there is always debate about how effective these things are and how truthful the claims are. But it is worrying quite a bit to find out that there is also a topic of "is it safe" on top. Especially when it was never a point of concern before.

Thank you. Cheers.
My opinion - never trust claims of safety and/or power gains by the people who have a vested interest in the boxes.
Only if someone has paid for the box themselves and then independently verified power outputs/afrs etc can they be trusted.
These engines are brand new, including the CVVD technology, and these boxes just seem to up boost/fuel and nothing more. I wouldn’t be risking my warranty on one for about 20 more horsepower which in the real world you’ll get used to very quickly.
I’m also certain a Hyundai dealer will be able to see the car has been producing more boost than specified if logs are interrogated following a potential engine failure.
 
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Does anyone know if the increased performance will be seen in the infotainment display?
So i have a italian developed piggyback called PowerKing bt2,they claim +32 hp and +90 nm with 95 RON.I haven’t dynoed the car but you have a strong feeling that the car go faster and is smoother,but more important and also the thing that made me buy this is,that you really get more km/l out of this little baby in any conditions.In mountain roads push really well also at low rpms.I have this mounted from about 6 months and,I haven’t major or minor issues at all.You can’t see in the infotainment the increase because i think the sensor of the car is set to show max 1.3 bar of boost(with overboost)and 300 nm but,also with a obd logger with the reading of MAF and turbo pressure you can’t see more than 1.3 bar of turbo pressure and 230 kPa of MAF.In fact today,I’ve tested various map in the same road with the car going in overboost every time and the log always showed me 1.3 bar and 230 kPa(making some math with the atmospheric pressure at 1.108 kPa in my city,that converted is 1.08 bar and turbo at 1.3 bar is exactly 2.38 bar that recoverted to kPa is around 230).To be more precise,my car only run 100 RON with 10% ethanol and the piggyback connects to throttle body and maf.This is my experience.