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Now on to the Forge Motorsport FMIC. Everything is done, except the sensor bracket fabrication. When Forge designed this particular FMIC, they deleted the flange that surrounds the FMIC. So, I have to finish fabricating a sensor bracket that will be easy to reproduce and work well in place of the original location.
I've figured out what to do and have started the fabrication. It's going to be a bolt on bracket, in the same location, which is directly the air stream as before. It's the best place for it.
What will it take? Drilling one hole and utilizing a self tapping bolt., possibly a well nut. The sensor doesn't need to be vibration isolated. However, you can't gain access to the back or inside plate steel bumper to utilize a nut and lock washer. Well nuts work great and can be replaced, if you every have to replace the FMIC or remove it to do any maintenance. I'm also considering an all metal nut plate insert, that actually expands in the hole. Needs to be inexpensive and can be sourced, and already available. So, this is taking up some of the time.
It's all part of developing a viable performance part. Of course this includes; photos and documentation for the final install instructions.
Now to the FMIC itself and a quick review;
The difference in the Forge Motorsport FMIC and the OEM Unit is massive. There is so much more cooling area, compared to the OEM FMIC Unit, more depth and width and slightly longer. The OEM FMIC is small, light and cheaply made with plastic end caps. Looks like junk. feels like it too. I also look at the original silicone tubing from the hot and cold side. Thin and 2-ply construction. Low and behold, it has the big white lettering; "AEM," printed on it!
The Forge Motorsport FMIC is miles ahead in construction, is quite a bit heavier and finished extremely well from front to back. I shined a flashlight into the core to see if it was painted all the way thru. It was as black from the front to the back, no aluminum color showing at all. Welds are outstanding and even. The provided Silicone 90's are 4-ply construction. No welding slag or debris left in the end caps or the hot side tube.
It's extremely well constructed, very solid unit , money well spent and worth every penny. Impressive unit!!
I'll be doing a full review once I'm completed. If you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to answer or you can wait until I start a specific thread for installation and post them there.
I've figured out what to do and have started the fabrication. It's going to be a bolt on bracket, in the same location, which is directly the air stream as before. It's the best place for it.
What will it take? Drilling one hole and utilizing a self tapping bolt., possibly a well nut. The sensor doesn't need to be vibration isolated. However, you can't gain access to the back or inside plate steel bumper to utilize a nut and lock washer. Well nuts work great and can be replaced, if you every have to replace the FMIC or remove it to do any maintenance. I'm also considering an all metal nut plate insert, that actually expands in the hole. Needs to be inexpensive and can be sourced, and already available. So, this is taking up some of the time.
It's all part of developing a viable performance part. Of course this includes; photos and documentation for the final install instructions.
Now to the FMIC itself and a quick review;
The difference in the Forge Motorsport FMIC and the OEM Unit is massive. There is so much more cooling area, compared to the OEM FMIC Unit, more depth and width and slightly longer. The OEM FMIC is small, light and cheaply made with plastic end caps. Looks like junk. feels like it too. I also look at the original silicone tubing from the hot and cold side. Thin and 2-ply construction. Low and behold, it has the big white lettering; "AEM," printed on it!
The Forge Motorsport FMIC is miles ahead in construction, is quite a bit heavier and finished extremely well from front to back. I shined a flashlight into the core to see if it was painted all the way thru. It was as black from the front to the back, no aluminum color showing at all. Welds are outstanding and even. The provided Silicone 90's are 4-ply construction. No welding slag or debris left in the end caps or the hot side tube.
It's extremely well constructed, very solid unit , money well spent and worth every penny. Impressive unit!!
I'll be doing a full review once I'm completed. If you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to answer or you can wait until I start a specific thread for installation and post them there.
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What you're referring to is.; Carbon Fiber Reinforced Plastic and possibly Hydro Dipped Carbon Fiber Finish. I don't really know for sure at this point. I can see they're utilizing OEM parts to create any moldings and not varying from the standard dimensions.
I going to be fair to SC Garage and ask them to explain what process they're utilizing. I'll talk to them tomorrow.
Now I've purchased quite a bit of CF for both motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you for certain, it's considerably more for molded CF parts half the size. I'm going to reserve any further discussion and opinion until I find out for sure.
It think personally it looks good!
I know it's not Hydro Dipped, since he mentioned it on one of the facebook groups. Found the term I was looking for and I believe SC Garage does Carbon Fiber Skinning which is the process of overlaying existing components with a single layer of real carbon fiber in order to give them a genuine carbon fiber appearance.
This is what a friend of mine will be doing to a spoiler he is making. It does look good overall, but I guess it is the price that I am not a fan of and them calling it 100% carbon fiber.
Ok Red. Is that the new re-worked Forge inter-cooler unit for the VN? If so, is it a direct fit? No cutting? If that is the case, this is most certainly on my list after I get back to work! Thanks for sharing young man!
Best regards,
-Mike
Best regards,
-Mike
Wagner isn't bad either but it's only made for the I30N like the old Forge unit was. Honestly, they look pretty much the same but Wagner is 790 instead of 900. If Wagner stepped up to the plate, I am sure they would have a good market here in the US as they manufacture out of California. The install for the Wagner unit is the same for the old Forge unit. But if this new Forge unit is a direct fit with no cutting, plug & play? I am all in....
Br,
-Mike
Br,
-Mike
Hey RVN! Did you ever Put the forge Motorsport turbo inlet adapter to the afe intake? Did the hose with the 3” legs work or was it too short?Now on to the Forge Motorsport FMIC. Everything is done, except the sensor bracket fabrication. When Forge designed this particular FMIC, they deleted the flange that surrounds the FMIC. So, I have to finish fabricating a sensor bracket that will be easy to reproduce and work well in place of the original location.
I've figured out what to do and have started the fabrication. It's going to be a bolt on bracket, in the same location, which is directly the air stream as before. It's the best place for it.
What will it take? Drilling one hole and utilizing a self tapping bolt., possibly a well nut. The sensor doesn't need to be vibration isolated. However, you can't gain access to the back or inside plate steel bumper to utilize a nut and lock washer. Well nuts work great and can be replaced, if you every have to replace the FMIC or remove it to do any maintenance. I'm also considering an all metal nut plate insert, that actually expands in the hole. Needs to be inexpensive and can be sourced, and already available. So, this is taking up some of the time.
It's all part of developing a viable performance part. Of course this includes; photos and documentation for the final install instructions.
Now to the FMIC itself and a quick review;
The difference in the Forge Motorsport FMIC and the OEM Unit is massive. There is so much more cooling area, compared to the OEM FMIC Unit, more depth and width and slightly longer. The OEM FMIC is small, light and cheaply made with plastic end caps. Looks like junk. feels like it too. I also look at the original silicone tubing from the hot and cold side. Thin and 2-ply construction. Low and behold, it has the big white lettering; "AEM," printed on it!
The Forge Motorsport FMIC is miles ahead in construction, is quite a bit heavier and finished extremely well from front to back. I shined a flashlight into the core to see if it was painted all the way thru. It was as black from the front to the back, no aluminum color showing at all. Welds are outstanding and even. The provided Silicone 90's are 4-ply construction. No welding slag or debris left in the end caps or the hot side tube.
It's extremely well constructed, very solid unit , money well spent and worth every penny. Impressive unit!!
I'll be doing a full review once I'm completed. If you have any specific questions, shoot me a PM and I'll be happy to answer or you can wait until I start a specific thread for installation and post them there.
View attachment 12371View attachment 12372
That will be next as soon as I finish the fabrication of the FMIC sensor bracket. I actally sucked off a crown last night and had to glue it back on with superglue. I''ve got an appointment today to rebond the crown shortly. So, nothing is happening at the moment.
With the exception of the sensor positioning. In both installs, the sensor bracket has to be removed and repositioned.
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No worries, Your health is always first!That will be next as soon as I finish the fabrication of the FMIC sensor bracket. I actally sucked off a crown last night and had to glue it back on with superglue. i've got an appointment today to rebond the crown shortly. So ,nothing is happening rat the moment.
With the exception of the sensor positioning. In both installs, the sensor bracket has to be removed and repositioned.
I ordered the forge inlet adapter just waiting to see what hose to buy
Mouth fixed, bracket finished and other mounting parts acquired. Just painting and mounting to be done for the Sensor bracket and the Forge Motorsport FMIC install will be done. I'll post the photos of the bracket and mounting shortly. along with the entire install. The bracket is far better than the OEM unit, removable and reusable. Takes two holes to be drilled at the original sensor location and uses self tapping & threading bolts.
I sat and thought of repurposing the OEM mount, but it would be to difficult for most to do. Thought about an expandable nut plate both metal and rubber but you have to drill and oversized holes, so that was out. Came down to an L-bracket that will be easily sourced or made by Forge along with the self- tapping bolts. It can be removed and reinstalled numerous time without issue or problem.
The bracket is far better than the OEM unit, removable and reusable. Takes two holes to be drilled at the original sensor location and uses self tapping & threading bolts.I sat and thought of repurposing the OEM mount, but it would be to difficult for most to do. Thought about an expandable nut plate both metal and rubber but you have to drill and oversized holes, so that was out. Came down to an L-bracket that will be easily sourced or made by Forge along with the self- tapping bolts. It can be removed and reinstalled numerous time without issue or problem.
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Painted the bumper and drilled the holes for the self tapping bolts. Bracket works out quite well. Holds the Sensor well and snaps into place with no movement like the OEM mount. I'll finish up tomorrow with the paint finishes drying o the bumper.
Source the bracket locally, for a specific reasons (cost, availability and proper dimension). Polished, shaped, cut to size and proper dimensions for both the bumper and sensor tab key hole. Painted and is both functional and removable. Much better than the OEM bracket, which is tab welded , non removable and cheap.
Look for zinc ; MP121BC Series N285-528 Corner Brace which can be bought online or at a local hardware store.
For the rest, you'll need a Dremel Tool, various circular metal cutters, small files, metal cut off wheels, buffer with polishing abrasive/polishing wheels and paint to complete.
For the rest, you'll need a Dremel Tool, various circular metal cutters, small files, metal cut off wheels, buffer with polishing abrasive/polishing wheels and paint to complete.
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You're very welcome.
Merci beaucoup
Danka
Thanks
Cheers
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Now thats a nice Big Brake kit! Even better when it does not require hub spacers if you have your OEM 19 inch wheels mounted. All it needs is the N logo and slap it over the Fella ones.
You're very welcome.
FRONT 4PS MONOBLOCK & REAR EXPANSION DISCS for 18 19 20 21 22 23 VELOSTER JS & N | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for FRONT 4PS MONOBLOCK & REAR EXPANSION DISCS for 18 19 20 21 22 23 VELOSTER JS & N at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
Wait a minute, that's not the standard Hyundai logo, that's the one with the radar - just like the ones on the DCT cars!
Did they get a DCT VN for testing somehow?