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Decided to make my own tweeter speaker grille removal tool. Length of copper pipe, flattened one end in a vice, drill a 6 mm hole, a 70mm X 6mm length of bolt, two nuts and some washer's
 

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Decided to make my own tweeter speaker grille removal tool. Length of copper pipe, flattened one end in a vice, drill a 6 mm hole, a 70mm X 6mm length of bolt, two nuts and some washer's

Pah, nah mate. You need various screwdrivers and ill fitting trim removal tools to gouge and chew the crap out of the cover sides because they won't budge :D

(luckily a heat gun and small spatula and my thumb moulded them back to almost normal)
 
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Managed to fit the Pioneer amp referenced above pretty easily.

The wiring harness needs a bit of fiddling to push head unit back in but not too bad.
Ran the wires through to glove box and mounted amp in there. Blue/white wire on amp power loom needed removing to stop "bang" noise when it powered up.

Not too bad a job, few bits of trim to remove but doable in about 1 hour.

Added amazing amount of power compared to standard and well worth it (I already have upgraded speakers).
Amp cost about £50 off Amazon
Wiring harness was £15ish off eBay.
I'm fitting mine tomorrow, I can't see anything in the installation instructions that mentions cutting the blue/white wire to prevent bangs on power on. Only mentioned that the amp would stay on with ignition on even if the AV was turned off.
Where did you get your info from please?
 
I'm fitting mine tomorrow, I can't see anything in the installation instructions that mentions cutting the blue/white wire to prevent bangs on power on. Only mentioned that the amp would stay on with ignition on even if the AV was turned off.
Where did you get your info from please?

This site lol.
Somewhere in the German section. The info is good, I tested it with and without removing that wire. Everything works spot on with the wire removed.

Try it with all connections and you get the bang, taking the wire out sorts it.

Something to do with the standard unit already being powered on with ignition already. I guess adding the extra from the amp does...... something lol.
 
This site lol.
Somewhere in the German section. The info is good, I tested it with and without removing that wire. Everything works spot on with the wire removed.

Try it with all connections and you get the bang, taking the wire out sorts it.

Something to do with the standard unit already being powered on with ignition already. I guess adding the extra from the amp does...... something lol.
That wire is a power control wire to power on the amp and the speaker wires will also power it on, in that case I'll disconnect that wire before installation. I'm thinking of placing the amp on the transmission tunnel, just forward of the centre console, two pull off covers to be removed either side, hide it nicely in there.

I'll take some pics as I do it.
 
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Yeah mine went in glovebox so was easy to test the theory and then remove the wire in-situ. It's a nice little amp, gives the system a bit more ooomph all round 👍
 
Finally got the opportunity to install the amp, I haven't replaced the tweeters yet. The difference is very marked, I've had to reduce the volume level by about 40%, the speakers sound so much better, much more punch and body to the sound, a very worthwhile upgrade.

Notes for the installation, it's very tight in there to fit all the cabling in, I wrapped the outside edges on the large connectors in cloth insulating tape to prevent rattles, the main connection block is pushed to the very top LHS and you can ease it well forward under the dash. I then routed the big block connector for the AMP connections to the lower LHS and pushed the other big block to the lower RHS of the opening, still had to push firmly to get the radio back in , then checked with a borescope to make sure that no wires were trapped.

I made a metal shelf and attached it to the 2x6mm studs on the crossbracing behind the dash with a couple of large washers and nylock nuts, drilled 3 holes in it for cable ties to secure the AMP and also some velcro, after it was all installed I used foam all around to pack it in tightly but making sure of adequate ventilation. I've added a couple of pics on the installtion.

Took it for a blast and happy to report completely rattle free.

It's by far the best upgrade for the price you can do to the audio system.
 

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Saw an article mentioning the i20n having a bose system so maybe the 2021 i30n will have a decent sound system from the off.
 
Finally got the opportunity to install the amp, I haven't replaced the tweeters yet. The difference is very marked, I've had to reduce the volume level by about 40%, the speakers sound so much better, much more punch and body to the sound, a very worthwhile upgrade.

Notes for the installation, it's very tight in there to fit all the cabling in, I wrapped the outside edges on the large connectors in cloth insulating tape to prevent rattles, the main connection block is pushed to the very top LHS and you can ease it well forward under the dash. I then routed the big block connector for the AMP connections to the lower LHS and pushed the other big block to the lower RHS of the opening, still had to push firmly to get the radio back in , then checked with a borescope to make sure that no wires were trapped.

I made a metal shelf and attached it to the 2x6mm studs on the crossbracing behind the dash with a couple of large washers and nylock nuts, drilled 3 holes in it for cable ties to secure the AMP and also some velcro, after it was all installed I used foam all around to pack it in tightly but making sure of adequate ventilation. I've added a couple of pics on the installtion.

Took it for a blast and happy to report completely rattle free.

It's by far the best upgrade for the price you can do to the audio system.

Just make sure the airbag will not hit the amplifier ;)
 
In my threat you can find my sound upgrade build diary, maybe it helps you:


Reply to that thrat for any questions :)