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@Jajodu Did you used DSP in your setup? It seems that there is alot of opinions that DSP is a must for our messy headunit but on the other hand, there is a lot of ppl using just pioneer 1004D.

I talked to me local caraudio shop. Guy told me that OEM-style amp with DSP is not good enought. He advised me to replace speakers + amp + sound insulation, and not go for DSP at it will be twice the price of the previous system.

I think I will be budget limited do use amp without a DSP, and now I'm scared it won't be good without it. I'm not an audiophile. I just can't stand this shitty stock sound :/
 
@Jajodu Did you used DSP in your setup? It seems that there is alot of opinions that DSP is a must for our messy headunit but on the other hand, there is a lot of ppl using just pioneer 1004D.

I talked to me local caraudio shop. Guy told me that OEM-style amp with DSP is not good enought. He advised me to replace speakers + amp + sound insulation, and not go for DSP at it will be twice the price of the previous system.

I think I will be budget limited do use amp without a DSP, and now I'm scared it won't be good without it. I'm not an audiophile. I just can't stand this shitty stock sound :/

If you want to do it properly get a DSP with a Hyundai-Baseline firmware on it. The stock headunit messes too much with the soundsystem. A normal "cheap" DSP won't help, you need one that neutralizes the mess the stock headunit makes.
 
To give you some numbers:
In this video at 4:21 you can see the stock configuration of the soundsystem - messy as hell:


And in the same video at 8:06 you can see what a DSP with a proper firmware can do. Took the guy about 2-3 weeks to configure a proper baseline. And he's a professional. That's why I said it's best to buy a proper DSP with proper firmware. A normal DSP won't solve your issues.
 
@Jajodu Did you used DSP in your setup? It seems that there is alot of opinions that DSP is a must for our messy headunit but on the other hand, there is a lot of ppl using just pioneer 1004D.

I talked to me local caraudio shop. Guy told me that OEM-style amp with DSP is not good enought. He advised me to replace speakers + amp + sound insulation, and not go for DSP at it will be twice the price of the previous system.

I think I will be budget limited do use amp without a DSP, and now I'm scared it won't be good without it. I'm not an audiophile. I just can't stand this shitty stock sound :/
No DSP. I used a Kenwood subwoofer in the boot (it's an underseat one), A Pioneer GM-D1004 Amplifier, 2 x Alpine R-S65-2 rear speakers, 2 x Alpine R-S65C -2 in the front, I used Sante Fe speaker rings, exact fit.
 
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And in the same video at 8:06 you can see what a DSP with a proper firmware can do. Took the guy about 2-3 weeks to configure a proper baseline. And he's a professional. That's why I said it's best to buy a proper DSP with proper firmware. A normal DSP won't solve your issues.
What are the proper DSP then? I know that galden marconi has some SoundUp package with DSP setup for i30.

EDIT: I just noticed that in that video, they guy is referencing the mosconi DSP :)
 
What are the proper DSP then? I know that galden marconi has some SoundUp package with DSP setup for i30.

EDIT: I just noticed that in that video, they guy is referencing the mosconi DSP :)
The guy in the video is the guy who writes the software for the Mosconi DSPs :D

In general, I know of the Mosconi PICO line as well as the DSPs from "Audiotechnik Fischer" that offer these i30N-specific firmware versions. You may have to consult with the shop you buy them from on how to get the proper firmware. I know that Mosconi only offers this firmware through partners.
 
Eh, so either I will go big with this whole SoundUp package or small without DSP for half the price. How the hell should I choose it now? I have no idea how both setups will sound.

I hate car audio for this. Practically there is no 1-1 comparison, never. You just do whatever you think is right or whatever car audio specialist tells you to do :/
 
Eh, so either I will go big with this whole SoundUp package or small without DSP for half the price. How the hell should I choose it now? I have no idea how both setups will sound.

I hate car audio for this. Practically there is no 1-1 comparison, never. You just do whatever you think is right or whatever car audio specialist tells you to do :/
Or listen to other forum members as to what works or doesn't. I used to have a lexus with a fantastic sound system but it was boring to drive. The N certainly isn't boring but the sound system needs work to be acceptable. I enjoy my music and I'm very happy with what I've now achieved.
 
That is the problem, there are to groups: DSP-is-a-must and ANY-upgrade-with-amp-is-much-better.

I think that I will not overdo it. I don't need it to be super hifi. N is a very fun car and I'm guessing that eny meaningfull upgrade will be good enough. I just need the sound to no be as f***cking disastrous as it is right now. Literally, I cannot listen to the music :/
 
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I am definitely in the dsp camp, but if you don't have a guided hand with it, it's hard to a) get your hands on the firmware for the N and b) to properly program it to do what you want.

Go with the route you feel most comfortable with. It's also not necessarily about price. For example: you could keep everything stock and only add a dsp, program it properly and the sound system would be in another league right off the bat without major investments. The stock speakers in the front are quite capable.

Also keep in mind car audio is highly subjective. I thought the system sounded fine when it was stock (with a bit of bass boost via the eq). But then I heard a proper system and afterwards the stock one sounded just crap.
 
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I'm now more than happy with my setup, to summarise. An underseat Kenwood subwoofer in the boot, a Pioneer amp behind the dash and all speakers replaced including the tweeters. Sounds really good. If you're interested I can list the exact equipment I used.
Please do.
 
Ok fellas. New car was delivered a month ago, immobilizer issue were fixed and finally I can modify audio system.

Next week I am scheduled to have my car done. I will do sound isolation on all four doors, Gladen rs-x speakers front and RS on the back and power them with Mosconi pick 6 | 8 amplifier with the DSP.

It’s basically a gladen i30 sound up system but bought separately (and cheaper).

No subwoofer as I will track my car and I don’t want to add mass and complexity on the back and neither I want any more sound isolation in the trunk to lessen exhaust noise.

It’s a rather costly upgrade. Top middle range. Anything more would be at least twice as expensive and without subwoofer it doesn’t even make sense.

Estimated price is 5500zl ~ 1200 euro

If this will not sound good then I will never ever look at non-oem car audio
 
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If you get it done, don't forget to tell them to flash the newest Pico firmware specifically for the i30N. Otherwise it just won't sound as good as it could. Every mosconi partner has access to the firmware needed.
 
Please help. Want to add sub to my setup. I have GM-D1004 and just changed my front speakers to new ones the other day.

Looking at something small like TS-WX130DA sub, now how do I add this to my system. Do I use line out converter or something and just connect it in? Or do I need to do something else like get rid of the gm-d1004? I am very confused, basically just want to add a small sub.

Thanks.
 
I tapped into the connections either side in the kick panels and led the wires through to the boot, very little room under the seat for an underseat sub.
I posted a few messages in this thread on the exact method I used. Do a search in this thread for my name @Jajodu
 
I tapped into the connections either side in the kick panels and led the wires through to the boot, very little room under the seat for an underseat sub.
I posted a few messages in this thread on the exact method I used. Do a search in this thread for my name @Jajodu

Ok thanks. I am still confused after reading your posts, which wires am I tapping into exactly? And what do I need to do exactly when tapping in, I am a bit confused still.

Thanks.
 
It's easier to intercept the door speaker cables at this location. Much better than removing the head unit. I've documented the location and colours of the speaker wires. Just strip the insulation then solder onto there the sub wiring and insulate afterwards.
 
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It's easier to intercept the door speaker cables at this location. Much better than removing the head unit. I've documented the location and colours of the speaker wires. Just strip the insulation then solder onto there the sub wiring and insulate afterwards.
So I just need a LOC correct?