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I not remember now if where doors hinges are, there is a pair of grommets like the Veloster have:

img_20190307_134435-jpg.6045



If them are there, you already have a solution: pass the cable behind the fender and between body -fender sponge (with some anti friction protection like snake skin cable sleeve), routing it to the hole.

I did it like that in one of my last cars, and without problems for 4 years.
Are you saying the cable will be visible when you open the door?
 
I spent days probing my endoscope into every cavity trying to work out how to get a heavy gauge cable through the firewall.

I've had part of the dashboard out, the battery and ECU out, the front mud guard off but I can't find any grommets other than the Aircon Drain hose (behind the center console) and the Major loom grommet behind the Aircon fan but this is way to difficult to get access to and the bonnet release but that means running cables over the top of the turbo to reach the battery.

I have reached out to N Performance for help so hopefully they can assist.

My backup plan is to tap into the 2x180W Cigarette socket in front of the gear shifter.
I checked the fuse box and it says each one has a 15A fuse so this should be enough for my 4x50W amp if I can link them together.
 
My Backup plan of using the 2x 180w Cigarette sockets for my Amp isn't a good idea.
It seems they power off when you stop the car even though the radio stays on.
I need to work out how to get a 8AWG power cable to the battery neatly and safely on the Right Hand Drive model.

Stay turned...
 
If I install the GM-D1004 like everyone suggests, and keep stock speakers. What's my next step for adding in a small sub?
 
I found a way to install a (+) Amp power cable without tampering with the firewall on the RHD i30N. There is a gland behind the wheel arch guard the you can pass the wire through however you need to drill a hole inside the cabin to access the cavity. (see pics)PXL_20210816_020750513.jpgPXL_20210816_014045113.jpg
 
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My Backup plan of using the 2x 180w Cigarette sockets for my Amp isn't a good idea.
It seems they power off when you stop the car even though the radio stays on.
I need to work out how to get a 8AWG power cable to the battery neatly and safely on the Right Hand Drive model.

Stay turned...

Isn't powered off when the cars stopped what you want? or do you need it powered up when u just want music on and car turned off ?
 
Isn't powered off when the cars stopped what you want? or do you need it powered up when u just want music on and car turned off ?
The radio stays on in the i30N even after turning off the ignition and only shuts down then you open the drivers door. The cigarette socket turns off as soon as you turn the car off which is not ideal if you still want to listen to some tunes and the Amp is connecter to this circuit.
 
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I found a way to install a (+) Amp power cable without tampering with the firewall on the RHD i30N. There is a gland behind the wheel arch guard the you can pass the wire through however you need to drill a hole inside the cabin to access the cavity. (see pics)
Do yo have a pic of the cable passed trough hole?
 
If I install the GM-D1004 like everyone suggests, and keep stock speakers. What's my next step for adding in a small sub?
First, buy it, hahaha.

Seriously now, that Pioneer doesn't have RCA pre-amp outs for feed a self powered subwoofer. It can only feed 4 door speakers, or the 2 front speakers and the rear outputs with a small passive subwoofer box (the user manual for this amp is one of the worst I've seen in Piooneer, so I can only say that between 90 and 200W RMS).

So I think that if you are considering a later upgrade with a sub, this amp is not the best election.
 
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The radio stays on in the i30N even after turning off the ignition and only shuts down then you open the drivers door. The cigarette socket turns off as soon as you turn the car off which is not ideal if you still want to listen to some tunes and the Amp is connecter to this circuit.
Ahhh im following now makes perfect sense :) was gonna say for ease of use tapping into there would of been much more easier than the firewall route but yep id deffo want it powered up too when just sitting in the car engine off :)
 
Yes, little bit. A 6 mm2 cable can deliver up to 60 A.

Have you used silicone to seal the hole?, and, how was the cable fishing?
I wanted to future proof the install if I decided to add a subwoofer amp later. I just used some zinc paint I had, more for coating the metal around the drilled hole. The distance between the in and out hole is only about 10cm so it was easy to fish out a bit of edge trimmer line as a draw wire for the large cable.

Another tip is, instead of running the power wire direct to the battery, it's easier to connect to the main power cable in the engine bay fuse box. Using a 6mm ring terminal you can connect to the rear heavy terminal which goes straight to the battery (+).

Good Luck.
 
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I've just replaced both front and rear speakers with an Alpine R-S65C-2 for the front and an Alpine R-S65-2 for the rear. The tweeters were the biggest challenge to fit, I removed the original ones and the mounting plate was used to fix the new tweeters to as the shape is rather odd. I used a sharp scapel to remove the glue holing the OE tweeter to the frameIMG_20210923_205544.jpg

Once that was done I bought a hot glue gun from Amazon and fitted the new component tweeters.IMG_20210923_205553.jpg

I utlilised the original wiring plug and soldered the new adjustable crossovers onto the remains of the wiring left in the plug.
IMG_20210923_212526.jpg

Here's a comparison picture of the difference in size.
IMG_20210923_222104.jpg

The OE filter was removed as these new tweeters come with a separate tuneable filter where you can vary the output from +3dB to 0dB to -3dB, I preferred the sound on -3dB. I screwed the tweeter frame back into the car and I placed the tweeter filters behind the respective dash end panels.
Now the sound in the car is really superb, lovely clear treble and fantastic mid range and base, along with the sub woofer in the boot and the pioneer amp I think I've got the optimal setup at the moment.
 
I've just replaced both front and rear speakers with an Alpine R-S65C-2 for the front and an Alpine R-S65-2 for the rear. The tweeters were the biggest challenge to fit, I removed the original ones and the mounting plate was used to fix the new tweeters to as the shape is rather odd. I used a sharp scapel to remove the glue holing the OE tweeter to the frameView attachment 18289

Once that was done I bought a hot glue gun from Amazon and fitted the new component tweeters.View attachment 18290

I utlilised the original wiring plug and soldered the new adjustable crossovers onto the remains of the wiring left in the plug.
View attachment 18291

Here's a comparison picture of the difference in size.
View attachment 18292

The OE filter was removed as these new tweeters come with a separate tuneable filter where you can vary the output from +3dB to 0dB to -3dB, I preferred the sound on -3dB. I screwed the tweeter frame back into the car and I placed the tweeter filters behind the respective dash end panels.
Now the sound in the car is really superb, lovely clear treble and fantastic mid range and base, along with the sub woofer in the boot and the pioneer amp I think I've got the optimal setup at the moment.

Nice work 👌 were the speakers a direct replacement or did they require different mounting rings etc ?
Thanks :)
 
Can anybody tell me how the Pioneer DM-D1004 amp is supposed to connect the head unit of the FL i30N DCT...

I believe I need a T-Harness (https://stingeraustralia.com.au/product/cpthy01/), what I'm trying to avoid is cutting the factory harness. I did read somewhere that it was possible to install the amp in-line, powering it from the factory harness with no cutting...

Any help would be greatly apprecited.
 
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