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I decided to go with small OEM-class amp with DSP plus soundproofing the doors. According to many suggestions here and on fb groups, factory speakers are not that absolute shit. They are just severely underpowered and many ppl are satisfied with just adding the amp.
 
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I still find the system too trebley so recently did a tweeter swap to see if it made any difference to overall sound.

Got Audison AP6.5 woofer in the front doors which sound good and tried some Pioneer TS-A300TW tweeters in the dash. I think these are the tweeters supplied with the OEM upgrade kit in Germany?
They have a huge frequency range of 1.4 - 69kHz so wondered if that would help round the sound out.
Ermmm, nope. They are awful :(, I also fitted that tiny TS-WX010A amp into the boot and now find the tweeters clip at not even loud volume. Gain on the subwoofer amp is only at 50%.

Back to the drawing board, will be removing the tweeters totally to start with (Tweeter Delete mod anyone :p) just to see how that sounds and then putting the original Hertz DT 24.3 tweeters back in.

Plus side is I am now really good at removing the tweeter dash covers 😁
 
Tweeters was clipping before amp install?

It's not tweeters clipping, I'm currently running with no tweeters installed and the noise is still there at higher volumes.

Closer listening I'm not sure it's speakers clipping but actually a dash noise that appears at higher volumes.

On a side note, the sound difference with no tweeters in the dash is negligible. The stock headunit/software has such strange sound equalisation?!
 
Assuming that the amp's input level selector (speaker - RCA) is correctly adjusted, I think there may be some reversed polarity in the connections.

Some devices have the negative signal lines common to the ground (of the car), so if one of the H.U. connections is inverted, is like to have a short circuit. Even without a device with common ground, the amplifier would be receiving the signal 180º out of phase in one of its channels. This, with a perfect mono audio signal would translate in a non effective subwoofer speaker movement (no bass sound from it).

As nothing is perfect, one reversed polarity (in amp, speaker or other components) may cause strange sound artifacts like clippings, vibrations or a kind of "emptiness" sensation at some frequencies.

For other part, you says that the noise came from the dash. ¿May be subwoofer vibrations are interfering with the sound generator under windshield?
 
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@loafer-N77 did you use any sort of crossover for the tweeters?

Yes, all good there. I've already discounted tweeters being any issue.

I need to test out the subwoofer a bit more I think, after reading @Dj_Nick really helpful info above I will see if changing the phase makes a difference.
I have the amplified subwoofer phase currently set "Inverted" as this produced more bass but will try it in "Normal" to see if that effects any unwanted noises.
 
I measured the max depth of the front speakers. This is 50mm glass to inner panel + 31mm height of the speaker ring.
Total depth 81mm. Leave 5mm of space and the result is 76mm max depth. Why is everyone saying there is only about 60mm of depth?
Okay so there may be alot of depth but there still is the factor of the cone movement to keep in mind. Just bought some Focal PS165 FE. Wich measure 72.7mm in depth but need an extra 15mm! Measured from the mounting base of the speaker to make sure it can move freely. So these will be too high im afraid ☹

The door cards cant guarantee any cone movement since there is this slope at the bottom.

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Bummer!!
 
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also that inner part of the door is really unstable when you give it some volume. The tape was not covering the ring completely, wich resulted in the plastics banging against the speaker adapter. really unpleasant. Good thing you can take that door apart in less than 5 minutes.
Since you can't really stabilize the whole inner part of the whole door more tape was an easy fix, and it's holding up for about 6 months now without a hassle.


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All this lost space so we can put 3 bottles of wine in the door cup holders :p Hyundai has strange priorities.

We can thank all the car reviewers/youtubers who are making sure the door holders are one of the most significant things to check in every car, carrying with them bottles and coffee mugs, their children's lego .... 🤦‍♂️
 
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Anyone know where to find the OEM male connectors that stick on the OEM speakers? They are made by KUM but I can't seem to find them seperate.
Only in this Pioneer kit, but I already have speakerrings so looking for the connectors themself.


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EDIT: found them but not in Europa
 
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Go to a local scrapyard, buy a pair of same years hyundai or kia cheap speakers, apply some dremel to the conector and solder to it a pair of wires.

Other solution, also the best (less connections = less possible problems): cut door connectors (leaving 2 Cm of wire and store if you want restore them after) and crimp fast-ons directly.
 
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Spend a few days installing my upgrades. Took longer than I wanted, my 3D printer went bananas on me so it took me about 6x 11hrs to just get the speaker rings the way I wanted + unclogging the little bastard 3 times.
Also working on the driveway isn't the best scenario here in Belgium.

Got myself a nice Focal PS165FE composet + a Match M 5DSP amplifier.
For door insulation I choose STP Doorkit Gold, wich is more than enough for the front doors.

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One of many ABS prints :)

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20mm speaker rings vs the window = not good

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23mm speaker rings is the size I went with, didn't want to go too far because these speakers need a lot of room to move forwards when they are playing.

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Door insulation time :)
I could not fully remove the doorcards. There it this extra cable coming from the keyless open/close system which I could not unplug. So hanging the doorcards on a trestle is the best option.

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degrease and clean

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Made some cardboard molds because there will be 2 layers and there are 2 front doors of course.
These made the job so much easier.

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First layer: STP Alubutyl 2,3 MM. To delete resonance and vibrations.
protip: covering about 25% of the surface is enough to delete most resonances.

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Second layer: STP Gold Accent 10 MM. To dampen and absorb soundwaves.

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Both doors done. This does add some weight to the car sadly but adds comfort too which is quite an improvement when driving.

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Finished speaker rings which house the original plug. 👌 Some captive nuts in the print with some M4 bolts hold the speakers securely in place.

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Some cheap hardware store insulation on the outer doorcards prevents the plastics from shaking along.

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Final layer of STP Biplast 10 MM. Sound absorption and anti rattle. This stuff sticks like crazy!

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30A fuse in the engine bay together with 2x 6mm² wire fed thru the hood release cable hole.

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Next up is wiring the whole thing together. I bought some plug and play harnesses which in the end was just way to big to make it disappear behind the radio.

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So I went the proper way and just hacked in to the original wire loom. Less connectors and overall much better since I soldered it professionally.

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The Match M 5DSP lives in the dashboard on the right as you can see. Both crossover filters wrapped in anti rattle cloth and tucked away behind the climate controls. Luckily there is some space in the dashboard :)

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Tweeters where mounted on top of the original covers since they where a lot bigger.

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Finally some finetuning the whole system.
This Match M 5DSP is an amazing product which blew my mind on how much functionality there is. Each speaker output has it's own DSP! you you can tune each speaker as you wish. Equalize, delay, phase is independent on all channels 😍
After about 30min of adjusting these are my graphs.

Green are the stock rear speakers, which sound so awful. Did my best making them sound a little better.
Muting the front speakers just reveals how bad the original rears are. These sound like they are playing in a plastic bucket
🤢

Also when routing the front speakers input to all 4 speakers outputs reveals how suppressed the rear signal is.

Blue is front, needs some more calibration due to the tweeter reflection on the windscreen.



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The sound is so much better now. Deeper bass, crisp high tones, more volume and no more booming resonance from the tin can doors.

I strongly recommend an audio upgrade :cool:


Grts,
Jeroen
 
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Just wanted to post a THANK YOU to all in this thread.

Got my Facelift i30 Fastback N-Line in Dec (I'm a heathen for not buying the full-fat-N, but environmentalist in me couldn't justify it for the mileage I do).... And the stereo was SO bad I even demanded the dealer verify it wasn't faulty.

I know the rear speakers are 'purely for fill' but might as well have not been there - measured -18dB below the fronts.

Anyway, incase its useful to anyone - the SOT lead listed earlier IS still correct for the facelift:

I got Halfords to just add the 4x65W Vibe amp:

Glad I got them to fit it (£35, and done much faster/neater than I'd have managed!)

Wasn't expecting miracles, but after a bit of tweaking, first impressions are that it 100% does the job to bring the stereo up to 'acceptable' or even 'good' even with the stock speakers (tho rear speakers are only mid-freq, so will never have any high-end).

So wanted to thank everyone for advice on here... And if anyone reads this, who like me has never upgraded a car stereo, and loves their i30 but felt really disappointed in the stereo.... I strongly suggest taking the plunge and upgrading the amp.
 
I think it shouldn't matter if it's right or left hand drive. The most common way would be to use the grommet where the hood release cable goes through.
Thanks Bullet,
I had a look at that grommet but this means I would need to run the thick (+) wire across the firewall close to the turbo which isn't ideal.

Be nice if there was a grommet on the left side close to the battery.
 
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I not remember now if where doors hinges are, there is a pair of grommets like the Veloster have:

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If them are there, you already have a solution: pass the cable behind the fender and between body -fender sponge (with some anti friction protection like snake skin cable sleeve), routing it to the hole.

I did it like that in one of my last cars, and without problems for 4 years.