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Engine Engine Oil Discussion

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Mick Harris said:
Mark 46...I refer you to post 41 on this thread... I spent 2 days waxoiling under my car and every thing you have mentioned is very accessible and could be done with the front wheels jacked up and then lowered on to blocks.
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I had read Pollack’s post, but didn’t see any photos of the actual procedure. From my experience having a look and talking about it vs actually doing the job are two very different things.
When you say blocks are you referring to bricks etc?
To be honest the more I think about this I’m beginning to think that I might just let the dealer do it at 1yr/ 10,000m.
At the end of the day the car has a 5yr warranty let the dealers worry about it, I don’t think we have anything to gain from changing the oil early.
 
I use 5w/30 Castrol Edge Full Synthetic, but this is OK, as I live in a very warm climate, and the super low 0 cold viscosity is not needed unless you have super low temps.
 
I'm old school and believe the best time to change the oil is after the run in period.. which i have documented on here somewhere. Some would argue this and that's fine also... Personal preferences.. as some don't think it's even necessary to run a car in at all. McLaren do... So obviously share my view.
 
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Iike you Mick Harris I’m a bit old school, I’ve always run in cars and changed the oil early etc on all my motorcycles and cars over the years. Has it been worthwhile? Well I’ve never had any engine trouble so maybe yes.
On the other hand I’ve also driven works vans which never get run in, thrashed within an inch of their lives but I’ve never had an issue with any of them either.
I will have a look at the job and see if it’s as easy to do as everyone says, I’m not paying extra to have it done at the stealers that’s for sure!
 
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Slight heart attack while checking the dipstick for the first time today after 500km on odometer. Pic attached. Pure evil. Why on earth does the dipstick look like this? Off white and matte. On a first glance the oil looked like frothy milk. Anyone else noticed this? There was some slight grey residue on the dipstick itself as well on the first wipe… second dip/wipe looked fine tho. Why Hyundai.. why.

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You are absolutely right.

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I wonder if it's a deliberate 2 tone dipstick, or maybe the oil is eating it away :)

Note mine comes with the optional 'L', introduced once they'd decided that 'Low' was the opposite of 'Full' :rolleyes:
 
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i do understand the whole point of sanded down tip, i guess its absorbs the oil better. But damn it looks scary with fresh almost translucent oil. Especially for focus rs owners :p Hyundai should definitely provide extra pair of pants with every i30n.
 
Probably makes a better contrast between the oil and metal.
Have you seen a Ford's yellow shiny dipstick? Makes great contrast with yellow shiny oil :mad:
 
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Just been reading the manual for ‘severe usage conditions’ oil change every 3000 miles or 6 months.

Severe use includes over 106mph / 170 kmh that’s most track day users and a lot of normal road users too!
 
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Just using the stock oil but changing it every 6,000 miles as I do track days. Would prefer a performance oil to be honest but at least if it goes wrong, they have no excuse to void the warranty.
 
WookieeM said:
Just been reading the manual for ‘severe usage conditions’ oil change every 3000 miles or 6 months.
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But that's related to a normal use interval of 6,000 miles. Dealers say that the standard interval should be 10,000 miles to correspond with services. Go figure!
 
Post your readings! Mine seems to hoover slighly above center "line" 105-110c i guess after a after spirited drive, seriously one of the hottest engines i've encountered stock.

ps. anyone know if there is an oil cooler from factory?
 
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I’m pretty sure there will be a coolant to oil heat exchanger on this car. Coolant heats up quicker than oil and this passes through the heat exchanger which heats the oil from cold and gets the engine up to temp sooner.

When the coolant is hot it won’t really go above 110 degrees (pressurising water raises its boiling point) this will also act as a cooler for the oil.

I had it around 120 degrees on a recent track night but it was 28 degrees at 7pm seriously warm for Scotland!
 
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Still running in at 800km, mine is always stable at 90c. What I do notice is how hot the area above the wheel gets, where the hood meets the fender. Almost too hot to keep my hand on. After one hour in the garage it doesn't get much cooler. It's literally a hot hatch :)
 
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