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OK, I've ordered some oil based on what's recommended in the manual (Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3 0W-30). Unfortunately the filter part number is not in the manual, so I will have to take a look under the bonnet to find out what it is.
 
He wrote:

In the break in process, you want to make sure that things really settle in with accordance to what the manufacturer claims the engine can do, so high RPM and heavy throttle input will provide you with a long lived healthy engine. The most important thing is to have the piston rings really settle in and that's done with wide open throttle (WOT). As the piston travels down the bore under full WOD it pushes the rings outwards at its hardest and creates a hard friction point against the bore which will make the seating and sealing for the duration of the engines life. Its the same with conrod bearings, main bearings etc.
Lol, yes, I see what he wrote, thank you for your copy paste :D, I see you are also confused...
I hoped for some elaboration on the fact, that manual says to go low, variable rpms <3000, and @KR00K3R advice is to go full open throttle with load and high (also variable) rpms? Since that is the opposite to what the manual says, I would appreciate some more details on that.
 
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He wrote:

In the break in process, you want to make sure that things really settle in with accordance to what the manufacturer claims the engine can do, so high RPM and heavy throttle input will provide you with a long lived healthy engine. The most important thing is to have the piston rings really settle in and that's done with wide open throttle (WOT). As the piston travels down the bore under full WOD it pushes the rings outwards at its hardest and creates a hard friction point against the bore which will make the seating and sealing for the duration of the engines life. Its the same with conrod bearings, main bearings etc.

this is a very contentious issue, thats been debated as long as ive read car forums on the web.

any car manufacturing process ive seen, the motor itself is run quite hard during the qc/qa process, before dropping in the vehicle.

so for me, the critical start of life phase of a motor is already dictated by the manufacturer.

its also pretty much unanimous that all manuals recommend a gentle to normal operating conditions for the consumer. nobody ive seen explicitly recommend a hard run-in. then only other special consideration is for unique oil and/or oil-change-interval for the break in period
 
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Yeah, so perhaps there is some confusion here about the production vs customer engine break in :) My question was about the customer break in part, and @KR00K3R was talking about the production break in...

I guess all is clear now... thanks guys.
 
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Back in 2012 we bought a new Mazda 3 MPS. From the get go we drove it like how it was advertised and designed to be driven. A hot hatch (with atrocious torque steer haha..). Its on 93,xxxKms now and still going strong. Guys, all I'm saying is the engines in cars these days are designed and built much better then they were 20-30 years ago. The materials used for componentry is much better and can with stand more. Clearances are much tighter and so are the tolerances. The only real main thing to avoid is keeping a new engine at the same RPM for a long period of time (highway driving). You want to make sure that your RPMs are variable and don't be scared to give it a boot full! Like I said in my previous post, our main client tell are Subaru owners (lol) and most of our builds are on the flat 4 boxer engine and they are punished on the engine dyno after they reach optimal engine temperature. Once installed in the car, we tell the owner to return after 600kms - 1000kms for a check and oil change depending on the build. If they ask about break in process/procedure we tell them no need. If an engine is going to let go, its going to let go whether at 50kms or 500,000kms.
 
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Does anybody know the correct oil specification for the i30 N performance as I like to carry a litre in the boot in case I need a top up Thanks.
 
Hyundai endorses the use of pretty much anything from 0W-30 to good old-fashioned 20W-50 as long as temperature is above freezing.
If you do lose oil then you might be better off with a higher viscosity, albeit at the cost of mpg.
 
Hi manual and pdi sticker says car due to be serviced at 10000 miles or one year. Manual mentions oil change every 6000 miles but service book does not. So does car really need oil change every 6000 or could it be done with service. Any hyundai techs know answer as obviously dont want to void warranty. Also noticed it recommends swapping wheels every 7500miles. Surely all these things could be better sychronised? As it happens I will probably only be doing about 6000 a year so maybe i can time oil change with annual service but if i exceed it its going to be two visits a year to garage. By the way does anyone know what huundai charge for an oil change and 10000 service?
 
Snap!. Hyundai needs to sort out the documentation and get all its ducks in a row so everything is consistent. At the moment it would be very easy to not comply with warranty requirements, or conversely spend a lot more time and money than necessary on visits to the dealer that are not required. I'm still waiting for a 'definitive' answer.
 
I may try and contact hyundai customer services though im not sure they will be able to give a definitive answer!
 
My dealer told me its an annual / 10,000 mile service with oil change which I have a plan for set up with them.
So the warranty would definitely not require you to change the oil more frequently than this (although you could change it as often as you like as long as you use the right grade oil to not affect warranty).
 
My dealer has confirmed the same...and i agree....change it as often as you like with the correct oil...I have Shell Helix 0-30 ULTRA professional and intend doing a regular oil and filter change at mid-service intervals.
 
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Just checked with Hyundai customer support UK. The service interval is 1 year or 10000 miles oil change at 6000 miles is not required.
 
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