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Engine Engine Oil Discussion

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want share some more pics from below the car. maybe is interessting for somebody. the belly pan on the hyundai is made very smart, is it with holes, which make an oil-change and oilfilter-change without to de-install the bellypan.
and the car looks really nice and good made from below.
its a nice done car. I am really surprised, about the perfection and cleanliness how everything is done. thank you hyundai :)
 

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Pollak said:
want share some more pics from below the car. maybe is interessting for somebody. the belly pan on the hyundai is made very smart, is it with holes, which make an oil-change and oilfilter-change without to de-install the bellypan.
and the car looks really nice and good made from below.
its a nice done car. I am really surprised, about the perfection and cleanliness how everything is done. thank you hyundai :)
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Great pictures of the underside of the i30 N. As someone who is still waiting for delivery I am interested in any photos of any aspect of the i30 N.
Underside, outside, good bits or dodgy bits. The more knowledge I have before delivery the more I will know about the car.
 
[QUOTE = "BadShadd, post: 12298, member: 512"] Veo en Amazon.de por € 32.80 - ¿es un buen precio por 5 litros? [/ QUOTE]

Yes, It also consumes me oil in extreme use.
 
speedking said:
What is above C2? Is it C1 or C3?
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Good question, unfortunately there isn’t a straight forward answer.
I’ve had to dig out some old course work from when I was training to be a motorcycle technician to answer this, so bear with me.
C1 & C4 are low saps (sulfated ash, phosphorus and sulfur) oils while C2 and C3 are mid saps oils.
On the other hand C1 & C2 oils have lower HTHS (high temperature high shear) viscosities while C3 & C4 oils have higher HTHS viscosities.
So if you go for C1 over C2 then the only difference is lower saps.
If you go for C3 then that has a higher viscosity.
So when the manual states use ACEA C2 or above it’s not very clear what “above” means.
Personally I would go for the ACEA C2/0W-30 if that’s not available I would use the ACEA C1 for lower saps and keep the viscosity the same.
Don’t know if that answers your question but as you can see it’s not that straight forward.
 
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I’ve just had my oil changed at 3,400 miles. (My choice to do it, I realise it isn’t a strict requirement in the manual or anything else, I just took the opportunity as it was in the dealer’s for another reason).
I somewhat fell over at the cost - £140 but typical, I suppose when you add up all the little costs and then throw in the VAT!
 
Typical cost of an oil change at Dealerships.... Mine was done at 1500mls as part of my purchase deal... However any further interim changes will be done myself for around half that cost.. as it's easy to do on this car with everything very accessible.
 
I might have a go at this on mine, especially as there appears to be access holes in the under tray for the filter and sump plug. Having actually done a few engine oil/ filter changes over the years I was wondering if anyone has actually done this with there own hands yet? I have a few of questions.
Regarding the sump plug, does anyone have a photo of the sump plug location and what tool is required to remove it?
Is it actually practically possible to remove/replace said filter and plug through the holes in the under tray? Bearing in mind most of us will be on our backs with limited clearance between ourselves and the under tray.
Does the oil drop straight through the holes in the under tray once filter/ plug is removed? Wouldn’t want any oil to be left sitting on top.
Finally and most importantly what did you use to support thr car, axle stands etc? And where did you locate them?
I will have a look under the car today to see if I can answer some of these questions for myself, just be nice to know if someone has already had a go at it.
 
Had the dealership do my oil change at 2000 miles they said it didn't require being done and acted as if they didn't want the business.Anyway cost me £110 which I thought was pretty reasonable.
 
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Mark 46...I refer you to post 41 on this thread... I spent 2 days waxoiling under my car and every thing you have mentioned is very accessible and could be done with the front wheels jacked up and then lowered on to blocks.
 
Manted said:
Had the dealership do my oil change at 2000 miles they said it didn't require being done and acted as if they didn't want the business.Anyway cost me £110 which I thought was pretty reasonable.
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Mine were the same - why are you doing that??
Well, it's a brand new car type with a relatively specialised engine and I want it done!! I said.....:)
 
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