We had the following MYs at hand:Really strange, are all the i30N's the same model year? Just looking for a common denominator.
One PRE-GPF MY18 where it fit. And three GPF MY19 (two issues, one seemless fit)
-
Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!
i30 N Bu11eT's Melody
- Thread starter Bu11eT
- Start date
One PRE-GPF MY18 where it fit. And three GPF MY19 (two issues, one seemless fit)
Well, if you need help with anything or contacting Forge Motorsport let me know. I'm in contact with them regularly at least once a week.
Well, if you need help with anything or contacting Forge Motorsport let me know. I'm in contact with them regularly at least once a week.
Let me gather a few more pics for you tomorrow and I'll send them over to you. The more pics they have the faster they may have a solution at hand
Today was Dyno time. It was the first dyno test with comparable results (had a run when the car was stock, but that was on a different dyno).
Please keep in mind I do not have a before and after comparison, so I can't say how accurate the dyno measured. For me, it was more or less to get a baseline of what differences future mods may do to the car.
Still, for a car without an ECU tune, I'm super happy with the result
If you want to know what has been modified, just check the first page of this thread.
Here's the result:
The thick lines are with the exhaust valve 100% open and AC off,
The thin lines are with the stock exhaust valve configuration (N Mode + AC off)
Value conversion (crankshaft, NOT at the wheels!):
293 PS = 288 HP = 215 KW
Please keep in mind I do not have a before and after comparison, so I can't say how accurate the dyno measured. For me, it was more or less to get a baseline of what differences future mods may do to the car.
Still, for a car without an ECU tune, I'm super happy with the result
If you want to know what has been modified, just check the first page of this thread.
Here's the result:
The thick lines are with the exhaust valve 100% open and AC off,
The thin lines are with the stock exhaust valve configuration (N Mode + AC off)
Value conversion (crankshaft, NOT at the wheels!):
293 PS = 288 HP = 215 KW
Last edited:
After installing the oil cooler I noticed the temps wouldn't go above 100C anymore, so after a bit of research I decided to install another thermostatic pellet. This changes the behavior of the thermostat to only open at about 83-95C. Now my oil can go above 100C and therefore the condensation in the oil can evaporate. This was quite important according to my buddy but it was not mentioned anywhere else in the Internet
We often run 15 minute Sprint Events and do not run oil coolers or we blank them off so we can run good oil Temps. Running to cold is just as bad as to hot this goes the same for Water Temps. Glad you have it sorted. CheersAfter installing the oil cooler I noticed the temps wouldn't go above 100C anymore, so after a bit of research I decided to install another thermostatic pellet. This changes the behavior of the thermostat to only open at about 83-95C. Now my oil can go above 100C and therefore the condensation in the oil can evaporate. This was quite important according to my buddy but it was not mentioned anywhere else in the Internet
Today was Dyno time. It was the first dyno test with comparable results (had a run when the car was stock, but that was on a different dyno).
Please keep in mind I do not have a before and after comparison, so I can't say how accurate the dyno measured. For me, it was more or less to get a baseline of what differences future mods may do to the car.
Still, for a car without an ECU tune, I'm super happy with the result
If you want to know what has been modified, just check the first page of this thread.
Here's the result:
The thick lines are with the exhaust valve 100% open and AC off,
The thin lines are with the stock exhaust valve configuration (N Mode + AC off)
Value conversion (crankshaft, NOT at the wheels!):
293 PS = 288 HP = 215 KW
the stints on my track days are 30min each. with about 20C outside, I've seen oil temps as high as 125C on my last trackday. That's the main reason why I wanted the oil cooler. The only challenge is to adapt it for daily driving
Any new info from forge about problem with catch can fitting ?
I'm waiting for this product too and they didn't answer to my mail.
I'm waiting for this product too and they didn't answer to my mail.
Last info I've received was that they are investigating the issue. Don't have any newer information as of now.
It's an unusual issue. It has to do with the position of the intake manifold nozzle on a few cars. Take a picture of your PVC connection with the engine cover removed and post it here. I can tell you if the present model adapter will fit or not.
It's has to do with the proximity of the nozzle to one of the valve cover bolts. It's not the same on all engines.
It's has to do with the proximity of the nozzle to one of the valve cover bolts. It's not the same on all engines.
I think it will not fit too..... https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/kamyks-i30n-pb-performance-pack.2128/page-19#post-91246
hard to say. its a matter of millimeters. If you want to be sure, wait for the revised adapter
I can give you the measurement from the valve cover bolt but you'll need to pull the Manifold PVC hose to check.
If it looks like this it will if it's something else, it won't.
After installing the oil cooler I noticed the temps wouldn't go above 100C anymore, so after a bit of research I decided to install another thermostatic pellet. This changes the behavior of the thermostat to only open at about 83-95C. Now my oil can go above 100C and therefore the condensation in the oil can evaporate. This was quite important according to my buddy but it was not mentioned anywhere else in the Internet
what pellet did you install and how?
I have the same issue.
When drivin around daily mine's not even getting to 90°C -.-
If i'm not mistaking airtec on facebook said that ther thermostat will open at 90°C and not before.
Seems Airtec themselves have no clue about at which temps the Mocal Thermostatic Pellet works. Asked two different guys at Airtec and got two different answers.
Each single Motec Thermostat will ship with the default 72°C-80°C pellet except when specified otherwise.
My guess is, that they just re-used the typical Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate from other models, therefore it has the default 72°C-80°C opening range.
I bought this one (Link) which has a range of 83°C-95°C. It's a super easy fix, you just remove the old one and put in the new one. Depending on how you mounted it, you may even be able to do it while keeping the sandwich plate installed.
There are a few other pellets available (see here). I chose the 83°C-95°C one, because Shell states the optimal operating temp of their oil is from 80-105C. With that pellet the oil temp should occasionally be able to exceed 100C which should let the condensation in the oil evaporate as well.
Right now, I can't really test it as I have 10C ambient. My oil sits at around 85C during daily driving. When pushing it on the autobahn oil temps go up to 90C which is more than with the old pellet. Next summer I will know for sure if that pellet does it's job or if I need another one. Since the swap is super simple, it shouldn't really matter.
Same for me. Without the cooler i got 100-110°C when going around 200kmh.
With the cooler the temp didn't go much over 90°C.
When driving in normal city traffic i don't reach 90°C with the stock pellet.
With the cooler the temp didn't go much over 90°C.
When driving in normal city traffic i don't reach 90°C with the stock pellet.
Also, it's hard to test it right now. If the ambient temps are around 10C the stock heat-exchanger does a pretty good job, meaning you don't get even close to 90C when you daily drive it (except maybe when you are on the autobahn )
)