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i30 N Bu11eT's Melody
- Thread starter Bu11eT
- Start date
Got the new springs installed and now I am officially creack-noise-free 
The new springs for the front fixed all the weird noises I was getting.
They completely changed up the construction of the spring, as can be seen in the pic (left side old and noisy, right side new and silent).
In terms of ride-height and driving behavior, nothing really changed in my opinion.
The new springs for the front fixed all the weird noises I was getting.
They completely changed up the construction of the spring, as can be seen in the pic (left side old and noisy, right side new and silent).
In terms of ride-height and driving behavior, nothing really changed in my opinion.
Just received my money from KW. Took quite a while as they seem to have mixed up my return number. But as I now got the money, I can finally consider this chapter closed.
Since I had a bit more free time the last two weeks and got myself a 3d printer recently, I wanted to learn a bit of 3d modeling.
As of now I designed and printed two different things, a third one is printing as we speak
First one was a lock-in for my K&N E-2993 air filter. I needed a lock-in since I largened the intake hole to let more air flow through the filter. The size of the hole in the stock K&N filter is even smaller as the one in the non-N Pipercross filter.
After largening the hole in the filter, it wouldn't fit properly. So I tried putting on the lock-in which you would also use the keep the stock filter in place. However that one doesn't fit as can be seen in this short clip I made:
Since then I got two more "prototypes" and the newest one does it's job perfectly.
Here are some pics of that one:
As you can see in the last image, the PLA bend because of the heat and how tight it fits. But that's actually even better because now it adapted itself to the form of the filter and the fitment is even better than it was before
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The next thing I printed was a proper mount for my footwell lighting for the driver side. As I am using just 4 LED strips for my footwell lighting, I had the issue that the two strips on the driver side did not stick and fell off after a few weeks. Even tried better 3M tape but that didn't help. Also I didn't like the position as you could see the two strips quite clearly.
So off I went to 3d model the next thing - this one was a bit harder because it was a multi-piece puzzle
Please excuse the cable mess - still need to properly take care of that
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Also got my custom sound system installed, but I am still waiting for the installation pics. Until then, here's a little teaser:
As of now I designed and printed two different things, a third one is printing as we speak
First one was a lock-in for my K&N E-2993 air filter. I needed a lock-in since I largened the intake hole to let more air flow through the filter. The size of the hole in the stock K&N filter is even smaller as the one in the non-N Pipercross filter
.After largening the hole in the filter, it wouldn't fit properly. So I tried putting on the lock-in which you would also use the keep the stock filter in place. However that one doesn't fit as can be seen in this short clip I made:
Since then I got two more "prototypes" and the newest one does it's job perfectly.
Here are some pics of that one:
As you can see in the last image, the PLA bend because of the heat and how tight it fits. But that's actually even better because now it adapted itself to the form of the filter and the fitment is even better than it was before
---
The next thing I printed was a proper mount for my footwell lighting for the driver side. As I am using just 4 LED strips for my footwell lighting, I had the issue that the two strips on the driver side did not stick and fell off after a few weeks. Even tried better 3M tape but that didn't help. Also I didn't like the position as you could see the two strips quite clearly.
So off I went to 3d model the next thing - this one was a bit harder because it was a multi-piece puzzle
Please excuse the cable mess - still need to properly take care of that
---
Also got my custom sound system installed, but I am still waiting for the installation pics. Until then, here's a little teaser:
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Nicely done mate!!! Love to have one of your footwell lighting mounts.
Love to have one of your footwell lighting mounts.
Can you make another one and sell it to me, footwell mount?
I guess it would be easier if you have someone with a 3d printer around, can send you the files if you want. Shipping would be triple the cost of printing
I meant the same as you have made. Can you duplicate another one just like it?
yeah I can print one, no issues with that.
what I meant was that I could also just send you the files of the 3d models if you know someone with a 3d printer around.
Sending the files and you print it yourself would be cheaper I guess
If you don't have the ability to get it printed just PM me and we can check how I can send you one
Had a little package in the mail today 
We had a group order for a total of 5 of these tanks, we will installed them all on sunday.
I will also bring my Airtec oil cooler and (if they arrive in time) the boomba IM and TB spacers which I've ordered. Gonna be a fun day
We had a group order for a total of 5 of these tanks, we will installed them all on sunday.
I will also bring my Airtec oil cooler and (if they arrive in time) the boomba IM and TB spacers which I've ordered. Gonna be a fun day
Yesterday we went ahead and finally tried to install the Forge Motorsport Dual Catch Can and Expansion Tank (what a name!) as well as my Airtec oil cooler.
To spoiler you guys completely: Both installs were not 100% successful and need to be completed sooner or later.
We did the installation during one of our typical group-buy-group-install-sessions - always lots of fun
This time we had 6 cars present, each got it's own treatment of new parts. The parts differed from 5 of the Forge dual catch can, my oil cooler, some sound dampening, new Forge hoses to some minor improvements here and there. I think we spent a total of 10 hours installing nearly everything.
Thanks to @KurvenKrieger for hosting the event.
Here's a pic on how it looked like (pic credits go to @WoLf130). Mine's inside on the lift just in case you were wondering^^.
Enough context, here's the about on how the install went:
Forge Motorsport Dual Catch Can and Expansion Tank
This one was super weird! As mentioned above, we had 5x the same product on hand. 1 did not get installed as per time constraints, 2 got installed completely, 1 had a troublesome installation and then there was mine...
If everything fits fine the install is a breeze, just draining the stock tank and swapping out a few hoses, refilling the tank and you're done. We utilized a small pump to get the coolant out of the tank, but it also works if you do it without one. Just stick to the tips @R Veloster N posted here.
A day prior to our install session, @WoLf130 installed his tank already and noticed an issue. The tall adapter for one of the hose nozzles did not fit into position on his car. It went so far that he broke off part of the plastic nozzle and had to refit it with some glue.... That's one way to get the adapter on at least...
Since we had his warning when we installed our stuff yesterday we had a bad gut feeling. But! On the first two cars everything worked like a charm. The tall adapter went on without issues and the install was completed within minutes.
Then it was time for my N and "surprise, surprise" I had the same issue as @WoLf130 had on his N.
But since I decided to mount the Boomba IM and TB spacers in the near future I just left this second connection out on the Forge tank since the spacers would allow me to easily fit the tall adapter without the fear of breaking stuff. The first connection fit without any issues, so I have at least more than half of it installed already
We already informed Forge Motorsport about this issue and they will have a closer look at it. To us, it seems as if there are some factory tolerances from Hyundai which messed up the fitment.
Here are a few pics and a small video clip which should show the issue and how it looks right now:
^The Issue
The catch can still looks mint when it's installed and upgrades the engine bay look by miles!
Also, if you haven't been aware of the cracking on the stock coolant tanks, just take a look at the underside of yours. I checked three stock tanks and two of them had these cracks:
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Airtec oil cooler
Fitting went super easy, although we didn't read the manual as close as we should have. It said to remove the front crash bar so the installation was easier. We somehow didn't read that part and had bloody fingers after mounting the cooler
.
The specialty this case was the fact, that I mounted it fittings up and I had my VelossaTech Snorkel installed. Usually you have to cut your plastic air curtain in order to route the oil lines - as I removed mine when I installed the snorkel to avoid cutting, it was super easy to route the oil lines.
However I forgot to order a spare oil filter and since we were not able to get the old one off in one piece, we left it on (no worries it was still intact) and I decided to mount the sandwich plate when I fit the Boomba spacers. Until then, the oil lines are protected in a plastic bag with some zip-ties
I cut the supplied oil line routing guard to make it fit into a new position to allow for better oil line routing options and to make sure they are still secured properly.
Here are a few pics on how we routed the oil lines:
To spoiler you guys completely: Both installs were not 100% successful and need to be completed sooner or later.
We did the installation during one of our typical group-buy-group-install-sessions - always lots of fun
This time we had 6 cars present, each got it's own treatment of new parts. The parts differed from 5 of the Forge dual catch can, my oil cooler, some sound dampening, new Forge hoses to some minor improvements here and there. I think we spent a total of 10 hours installing nearly everything.
Thanks to @KurvenKrieger for hosting the event
.Here's a pic on how it looked like (pic credits go to @WoLf130). Mine's inside on the lift just in case you were wondering^^.
Enough context, here's the about on how the install went:
Forge Motorsport Dual Catch Can and Expansion Tank
This one was super weird! As mentioned above, we had 5x the same product on hand. 1 did not get installed as per time constraints, 2 got installed completely, 1 had a troublesome installation and then there was mine...
If everything fits fine the install is a breeze, just draining the stock tank and swapping out a few hoses, refilling the tank and you're done. We utilized a small pump to get the coolant out of the tank, but it also works if you do it without one. Just stick to the tips @R Veloster N posted here.
A day prior to our install session, @WoLf130 installed his tank already and noticed an issue. The tall adapter for one of the hose nozzles did not fit into position on his car. It went so far that he broke off part of the plastic nozzle and had to refit it with some glue.... That's one way to get the adapter on at least...
Since we had his warning when we installed our stuff yesterday we had a bad gut feeling. But! On the first two cars everything worked like a charm. The tall adapter went on without issues and the install was completed within minutes.
Then it was time for my N and "surprise, surprise" I had the same issue as @WoLf130 had on his N.
But since I decided to mount the Boomba IM and TB spacers in the near future I just left this second connection out on the Forge tank since the spacers would allow me to easily fit the tall adapter without the fear of breaking stuff. The first connection fit without any issues, so I have at least more than half of it installed already
We already informed Forge Motorsport about this issue and they will have a closer look at it. To us, it seems as if there are some factory tolerances from Hyundai which messed up the fitment.
Here are a few pics and a small video clip which should show the issue and how it looks right now:
^The Issue
The catch can still looks mint when it's installed and upgrades the engine bay look by miles!
Also, if you haven't been aware of the cracking on the stock coolant tanks, just take a look at the underside of yours. I checked three stock tanks and two of them had these cracks:
---
Airtec oil cooler
Fitting went super easy, although we didn't read the manual as close as we should have. It said to remove the front crash bar so the installation was easier. We somehow didn't read that part and had bloody fingers after mounting the cooler
.The specialty this case was the fact, that I mounted it fittings up and I had my VelossaTech Snorkel installed. Usually you have to cut your plastic air curtain in order to route the oil lines - as I removed mine when I installed the snorkel to avoid cutting, it was super easy to route the oil lines.
However I forgot to order a spare oil filter and since we were not able to get the old one off in one piece, we left it on (no worries it was still intact) and I decided to mount the sandwich plate when I fit the Boomba spacers. Until then, the oil lines are protected in a plastic bag with some zip-ties
I cut the supplied oil line routing guard to make it fit into a new position to allow for better oil line routing options and to make sure they are still secured properly.
Here are a few pics on how we routed the oil lines:
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Oil cooler install completed. Got myself a new oil filter and needed about 2 hours to get the old one off. Had to pierce multiple holes in it using my screwdriver. Then I could use the screwdriver as an extender to get it turned. What a mess that was!
But now a new oil filter is in place, had to add about 1.6L of oil. 400ml went with the old oil filter and it seems the oil cooler core and lines needed the rest.
Only had a chance to briefly test it. With 10C outside the oil temps never exceeded 85C.
In general the car needs a bit longer to warm up but when it's above 75-85C it just stays there.
Will give it a proper run on the Autobahn on the weekend to see how high the temps will climb. Remember, without an oil cooler temps around 115C and higher have been normal when driving 220-250 km/h for a few minutes.
But now a new oil filter is in place, had to add about 1.6L of oil. 400ml went with the old oil filter and it seems the oil cooler core and lines needed the rest.
Only had a chance to briefly test it. With 10C outside the oil temps never exceeded 85C.
In general the car needs a bit longer to warm up but when it's above 75-85C it just stays there.
Will give it a proper run on the Autobahn on the weekend to see how high the temps will climb. Remember, without an oil cooler temps around 115C and higher have been normal when driving 220-250 km/h for a few minutes.
Wow, this is totally different then the 2.0T Theta II in the VN. Now I see what you mean. I couldn't imagine why, until now! o wonder it didn't fit.
Yours;
Mine:
Looks to be, the depth of the Intake manifold and placement of the nozzle are slightly different. I wonder why? Maybe a difference in Intake Manifold configuration for ULEV standards adopted in Europe.
I don't even think Forge Motorsports has seen this configuration. Looks like a bit more R & D is needed for German i30N's.
Give me some more photos if you're able and I'll send them along to the gents in R & D.
Yours;
Mine:
Looks to be, the depth of the Intake manifold and placement of the nozzle are slightly different. I wonder why? Maybe a difference in Intake Manifold configuration for ULEV standards adopted in Europe.
I don't even think Forge Motorsports has seen this configuration. Looks like a bit more R & D is needed for German i30N's.
Give me some more photos if you're able and I'll send them along to the gents in R & D.
@Bullet, use two wire ties; one around both hoses and one looped around the wire tie. Put the wire tie around the hoses loosely, then the other around the middle of the wire tie on the hoses. Tighten the middle wire tie and then the one on the hoses. This will separate the hoses and keep them in the same position. Do this in at least four location evenly spaced on the oil cooler hoses under the vehicle. This will add a bit of tension and much less movement to both hoses. Look at the wire ties in both photos and you'll get the idea.Oil cooler install completed. Got myself a new oil filter and needed about 2 hours to get the old one off. Had to pierce multiple holes in it using my screwdriver. Then I could use the screwdriver as an extender to get it turned. What a mess that was!
But now a new oil filter is in place, had to add about 1.6L of oil. 400ml went with the old oil filter and it seems the oil cooler core and lines needed the rest.
Only had a chance to briefly test it. With 10C outside the oil temps never exceeded 85C.
In general the car needs a bit longer to warm up but when it's above 75-85C it just stays there.
Will give it a proper run on the Autobahn on the weekend to see how high the temps will climb. Remember, without an oil cooler temps around 115C and higher have been normal when driving 220-250 km/h for a few minutes.
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We contacted them already and they are investigating the issue.
Weird thing is, that we could successfully install the adapter on the other two cars. Only mine and @WoLf130 's N had the issue. So maybe just a tolerance by Hyundai?
@Bullet, use two wire ties; one around both hoses and one looped around the wire tie. Put the wire tie around the hoses loosely, then the other around the middle of the wire tie on the hoses. Tighten the middle wire tie and then the one on the hoses. This will separate the hoses and keep them in the same position. Do this in at least four location evenly spaced on the oil cooler hoses under the vehicle. This will add a bit of tension and much less movement to both hoses.
Thanks for the tip, Will do that the next time I'm under the car or when I have the bumper off again. Maybe it even happens sooner or later, as I am a bit worried about the 'low' oil temps of just 80C even after quite a bit of spritited driving. Was thinking about changing the thermostat pellet to one that would have a higher operating temperature. The one which came with the Mocal sandwich plate is operating from ~70C - 78C as it seems. Not sure if my 0w30 shell oil likes these 'low temps'