c'mon bro
check the ECS10 thread on the i30N subforum. Then you know what I'm currently up to
btw: Downpipe is currently scheduled in for end of May!
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i30 N Bu11eT's Melody
- Thread starter Bu11eT
- Start date
check the ECS10 thread on the i30N subforum. Then you know what I'm currently up to
btw: Downpipe is currently scheduled in for end of May!
Which one? Because there is no street legal downpipe for GPF model for Germany yet.
It's a custom made downpipe. It's a big topic right now, because 99% of the guys in Germany ask HJS to get their CAT GPF certified. Well you don't need to because Hyundai uses the same CAT for GPF as they do for Non-GPF models.
Got two mates with an GPF and a custom downpipe, no issues at multiple TÜV stations at all. Use a "Vergleichsgutachten" and you're good to go.
The custom downpipe will be made by Motor Krep.
Yeah that is correct and so does the HJS non-GPF downpipe fit the GPF model. But they have no certificate approval for that yet. I am in regular contact with HJS since the last 12 months.
We will see. I'm still not sure to fit a downpipe because I don't like the metallic sounds they bring due the metal catalyst.
You don't need the certificate approval for the i30N if you do it with a "Vergleichsgutachten". Der is no process in place for checking emissions on a GPF car and when the process gets established, it is highly likely our cars will not be regulated by it because they have been built before the process has been established.
But it's a really complicated topic. The guy from Motor Krep could explain it very well, but I'm afraid I'm missing important bits and pieces when retelling the story
Regarding sound: I had the exact same fear regarding the metallic sounds of the cat (after watching the video from jp performance where they compared the two). Good thing: The guy from motor krep uses thicker sidewalls for the downpipe. That reduces the metallic sound and makes it nowhere near as bad as in the jp performance video. The car of my mate only sounds a tiny bit metallic if he's fully on it and above 4500 rpm.
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Yesterday I wanted to fresh-up my Gyeon MOHS ceramic coating. Used Gyeon CanCoat to improve the slickness even further. Today, I checked the results - see for yourself
Got two new things installed.
While I was polishing @WoLf130 's N, he was kinda bored. So I asked him if he wants to install this digital voltmeter, which I had ordered previously. He went off to install it and just a few minutes later I came back to this:
Super happy with it. Thanks again @WoLf130 !
Today the newly released Spoiler Cap v2 from Maxton Design arrived. Was waiting quite a few weeks for it. Installation went smooth as it's just glued to the car with a big strip of 3M tape.
Final pics:
Imo it fits the car way better than the old v1 version, as the new one follows the design of the car much better. From the side it still looks like it has a weird angle, but from the back it looks mint
(Ignore the silver badge. it will be removed after I am done with getting it TÜV'ed here in Germany).
- Digital Voltmeter
- Maxton Design Spoiler Cap v2
While I was polishing @WoLf130 's N, he was kinda bored. So I asked him if he wants to install this digital voltmeter, which I had ordered previously. He went off to install it and just a few minutes later I came back to this:
Super happy with it. Thanks again @WoLf130 !
Today the newly released Spoiler Cap v2 from Maxton Design arrived. Was waiting quite a few weeks for it. Installation went smooth as it's just glued to the car with a big strip of 3M tape.
Final pics:
Imo it fits the car way better than the old v1 version, as the new one follows the design of the car much better. From the side it still looks like it has a weird angle, but from the back it looks mint
(Ignore the silver badge. it will be removed after I am done with getting it TÜV'ed here in Germany).
I try to keep my first post updated with all the links, take a lookYou got a link to that voltmeter?
Just a hint tho: You need to largen the hole in which you want to put the voltmeter into. So there is a bit of modification needed to the stock partYou got a link to that voltmeter?
On one hand I don't want to drill around my car too much, on the other hand I want to get the upcoming ultra widebody kit for my N...
Thanks for the info, btw!
Today was Trackday time. Went to visit the Bilster Berg together with @Mr.Bubble as my co-driver.
Drove 3 hrs to the track, took 3 stints (each 30 min) and drove 3 hrs back. All in one day.
Went buttery smooth tbh
Idea was to have some fun, but also to find out what my car in particular needs the most.
Turns out, it's the oil cooler together with some proper tires.
Regarding temps, here's what we logged:
Ambient: ~17C
IAT: max 55C
Oil: max 125C
Exhaust temp: max 960C (not sure where the Torque App measured that, could also be calculated)
So while driving I focused on the oil temp. By just pushing for 3-4 laps straight the oil temp was way too high for my taste. So I planned to do some proper cooling time on the back straight, as it's not about lap time anyways. With that tactic the oil never exceed 125C, but was sitting at around 115-120C throughout the lap.
Still kinda unhappy with how fast it started climbing when pushing the car. Therefore, I am going to install an oil cooler.
The other topic: Tires. The PZero on my heavy Momo wheel worked kinda okay, but I could feel the missing camber (you could see it on the tire as well) and the too thin tire wall. So for next season I am planning new track-focused rims and tires.
Was running around 2.3 bar on a hot tire.
For next week I am planning to do a dyno run to check where the car is at right now.
Afterwards a new Downpipe will be installed in the beginning of june.
And then we'll have another run at the dyno.
Exciting times....
Drove 3 hrs to the track, took 3 stints (each 30 min) and drove 3 hrs back. All in one day.
Went buttery smooth tbh
Idea was to have some fun, but also to find out what my car in particular needs the most.
Turns out, it's the oil cooler together with some proper tires.
Regarding temps, here's what we logged:
Ambient: ~17C
IAT: max 55C
Oil: max 125C
Exhaust temp: max 960C (not sure where the Torque App measured that, could also be calculated)
So while driving I focused on the oil temp. By just pushing for 3-4 laps straight the oil temp was way too high for my taste. So I planned to do some proper cooling time on the back straight, as it's not about lap time anyways. With that tactic the oil never exceed 125C, but was sitting at around 115-120C throughout the lap.
Still kinda unhappy with how fast it started climbing when pushing the car. Therefore, I am going to install an oil cooler.
The other topic: Tires. The PZero on my heavy Momo wheel worked kinda okay, but I could feel the missing camber (you could see it on the tire as well) and the too thin tire wall. So for next season I am planning new track-focused rims and tires.
Was running around 2.3 bar on a hot tire.
For next week I am planning to do a dyno run to check where the car is at right now.
Afterwards a new Downpipe will be installed in the beginning of june.
And then we'll have another run at the dyno.
Exciting times....
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Forge oil cooler looks good as you maintain the factory setup , our Track sessions are usually 15 to 20 minutes and sometimes double that. Will be racing at Phillip Island 28th of June.Today was Trackday time. Went to visit the Bilster Berg together with @Mr.Bubble as my co-driver.
Drove 3 hrs to the track, took 3 stints (each 30 min) and drove 3 hrs back. All in one day.
Went buttery smooth tbh
Idea was to have some fun, but also to find out what my car in particular needs the most.
Turns out, it's the oil cooler together with some proper tires.
Regarding temps, here's what we logged:
Ambient: ~17C
IAT: max 55C
Oil: max 125C
Exhaust temp: max 960C (not sure where the Torque App measured that, could also be calculated)
So while driving I focused on the oil temp. By just pushing for 3-4 laps straight the oil temp was way too high for my taste. So I planned to do some proper cooling time on the back straight, as it's not about lap time anyways. With that tactic the oil never exceed 125C, but was sitting at around 115-120C throughout the lap.
Still kinda unhappy with how fast it started climbing when pushing the car. Therefore, I am going to install an oil cooler.
The other topic: Tires. The PZero on my heavy Momo wheel worked kinda okay, but I could feel the missing camber (you could see it on the tire as well) and the too thin tire wall. So for next season I am planning new track-focused rims and tires.
Was running around 2.3 bar on a hot tire.
For next week I am planning to do a dyno run to check where the car is at right now.
Afterwards a new Downpipe will be installed in the beginning of june.
And then we'll have another run at the dyno.
Exciting times....
The Forge one is a bit too expensive for my taste. Currently looking at the airtec one, hoping that one performs similar to the forge oil cooler...
How have your oil Temps been with the stock setup? As extreme as mine?
Also not sure if it's partly due to the track. The bilster Berg is different to most other circuits as you only have one back straight to get fresh air into the car...
Oil Temps have been good ( 100 - 115 ) but I usually do Track days in winter. With Track sessions being around 15 to 30 minutes not a problem but an oil cooler would be good for the warmer weather and longer sessions. Would be interesting to see if engine oil brands make a difference as well. Will be doing a Track day next month will keep you updated. Cheers
Spoke to a few Racer friends , 120 oil Temp is fine according to them but I understand why you would want an oil cooler.
Yeah, the other guys at the track said 120C was fine as well. But I didn't like how fast the temps climbed. After easing it out on the back straight, the temps were down to 110C, but after just a couple of corners 120C+ was normal. I don't wanna image how high the temps would've climbed if I skipped the cooldown part on the back straight for lets say 1 or 2 laps...
Hi,
Last year I was doing also three stints with 25mins each on Bilster Berg with the guys from OWL.
I am running a pretty stock setup and I was also reaching oil temps of around 115-120 degrees. But it never went any higher than that even as I was doing only one cool down lap in the middle of the Stint (and extensive cool down driving after each session). So I think there is not much to worry about as long as you give the engine or basically the whole car time to cool down.