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Gearbox Gearbox & Clutch Discussion

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Hello everyone, I have an issue with my i30N FL manual gearbox, when I release the clutch pedal, it sound like heavy punch. It started to sound when car has 6000km and now with 8000 it's more louder and I'm worried. When I drive in the morning and the car is cold, it not hapenning but when I drive about 20km, it start to sound and clutch feel worst

Any idea?

 
Not very clear on the video but I'd check all the engine mountings first of all.
 
Jajodu said:
Not very clear on the video but I'd check all the engine mountings first of all.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your answer! The engine mounts have been checked on a lift, they appear to be fine, the car is approximately 4 months old since it was delivered to me new. At the dealership they changed the gearbox oil without any difference, I suppose because it was the cheapest thing to try. The strange noise is precisely when the clutch pedal is released a little after shifting up, but it never happens when downshifting.
 
So, I use a multilevel parking building, with my new 2023 I30N DCT. I have a lot of very narrow inclined ramps between the floors. Well, I do not claim to be a fantastic driver, but I still have 24 years of driving and I am using that parking building with my Tucson (torque converter) every day, for years and years. Due to the very small turning radius and tight spaces, most of the times I have to slow down or even completely stop the I30N on the ramps(for a very brief moment), between two concrete walls, with the steering wheel turned max to the right, just to make sure I do not hit the walls, left or right. (By the way, there is no ramp-wall in that parking complex that is not already severely scratched by many, many cars). So there are these short moments on the incline, immediately followed by pressing the acceleration to complete the 5m long ascent. The car seems to struggle during these acceleration moments(like a "lag", like nothing happens) and then suddenly "burst" up the ramp after a second or so. Is that clutch slipping, is it bad on long term using the parking lot? I really don't know how to change my attack strategy for these inclined ramps, everything seems so much easier with the big SUV. Am I worried for no reason? Thank you.
 
Hello folks, just asking, anyone here had their DCT auto fluid change already, if yes was it done at the dealer ?
Anyone did this themselves ? If yes, appreciate if you can share your experience/tips and what fluid type/brand did you used.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Replaced the clutch on my PFL i30N last month as the original had started to slip.

After much research and help from forum members I decided to get the RTS Organic clutch from MTTuning. Markus was very helpful and explained the proper procedure to bleed the fluid (not as simple as I thought).
I’ve now put 1000km on the clutch and can give the review that I was looking for but didn’t find when researching.

Pros, compared to OEM clutch:
- Can handle more power (Markus says up to 550-600nm).
- Much cheaper than OEM. €550 compared to €950.

Cons, compared to OEM:
- Doesn’t look as well build as oem. The metal is thinner and the overall feel is cheaper.
- Doesn’t have a self-regulating spring (don’t know the proper name). In essence, it doesn’t adjust the bite point of the pedal so it’s always the same as the clutch ages. It starts from very low and goes up with time. Personally, I prefer it this way.
- Clutch pedal is a bit heavier now. Still completely usable in traffic.

All in all, I’m happy with the new clutch. Hopefully it lasts longer than the OEM clutch which started slipping at 75k km (stock car).

Here are some photos from the install:

IMG_5919.jpeg
IMG_5908.jpeg

IMG_5911.jpeg
 
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s.arhangelov said:
Replaced the clutch on my PFL i30N last month as the original had started to slip.

After much research and help from forum members I decided to get the RTS Organic clutch from MTTuning. Markus was very helpful and explained the proper procedure to bleed the fluid (not as simple as I thought).
I’ve now put 1000km on the clutch and can give the review that I was looking for but didn’t find when researching.

Pros, compared to OEM clutch:
- Can handle more power (Markus says up to 550-600nm).
- Much cheaper than OEM. €550 compared to €950.

Cons, compared to OEM:
- Doesn’t look as well build as oem. The metal is thinner and the overall feel is cheaper.
- Doesn’t have a self-regulating spring (don’t know the proper name). In essence, it doesn’t adjust the bite point of the pedal so it’s always the same as the clutch ages. It starts from very low and goes up with time. Personally, I prefer it this way.
- Clutch pedal is a bit heavier now. Still completely usable in traffic.

All in all, I’m happy with the new clutch. Hopefully it lasts longer than the OEM clutch which started slipping at 75k km (stock car).

Here are some photos from the install:

View attachment 25124
View attachment 25125

View attachment 25126
Click to expand...


Hello,

Good to know this alternative.

Does a DMF (flywheel) look still ok? How hard life the DMF/clutch had ;)?
 
H0nzaM said:
Hello,

Good to know this alternative.

Does a DMF (flywheel) look still ok? How hard life the DMF/clutch had ;)?
Click to expand...
Yes, it looks good to take on another clutch. It didn’t have a too hard life. No track days. 90% city driving and the occasional spirited mountain drive with friends. I always tried to be mindful and not do low RPM hard accelerations and always use rev matching so that probably helped.
 
s.arhangelov said:
Yes, it looks good to take on another clutch. It didn’t have a too hard life. No track days. 90% city driving and the occasional spirited mountain drive with friends. I always tried to be mindful and not do low RPM hard accelerations and always use rev matching so that probably helped.
Click to expand...

Thx for info and good to hear that dmf likely last a bit more than one clutch... Hope that my driving stile and usege will not change it significantly.
 
Is lugging the engine possible with DCT? I was cruising in "normal" behind a slow car at around 50km/h, then I had a very short road opportunity to overtake. Car was probably in high gear at low rpm, I put my foot down pretty hard, felt kind of a "loooong" nothing, then a very powerful/sudden/violent acceleration, not linear at all, probably turbo kick and downshift more or less at the same time. I should've probably downshifted before accelerating hard, my mistake, but I was paying too much attention to the road(safety). Is it possible to cause any damage or is the car smart enough to avoid problems in turbo, engine, clutches, gearbox, other components? Car seems fine, obviously, I just got a bit surprised by the powerful "kick" after initial lag duration, felt to me like something I shouldn't have done. Also, the whole DCT situation is new to me, I don't get any bad feeling, no matter how "wrong" I accelerate in my automatic diesel Tucson(torque converter).
 
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Good to know, thanks. Bottom line, even though the whole thing happened very quickly, still felt to me like the car should have downshifted faster.
 
V00D00 said:
Good to know, thanks. Bottom line, even though the whole thing happened very quickly, still felt to me like the car should have downshifted faster.
Click to expand...
Which drive Mode you are using?
All drive modes have different gearbox settings. The fastest gear shifts you get in N Mode with gearbox in Sport+ and pressed NGS Button.
 
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V00D00 said:
Yes, I know. I mentioned in my initial post, I was in "normal", 50km/h, high gear, low rpm.
Click to expand...
Okay. In this case I press the NGS Button for passing another car quickly. This costs you only a moment of time and this force your gearbox immediately shift in the lowest possible gear. In Addition you will get a bit more torque as in all other drive modes.
I like this funktion on my i30n Fastback. ;)
 
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NGS always makes me giggle, indeed. All these things I could've/should've done I know: NGS, paddle down shift, N or Sport mode, etc. My only question was if, by missing all of them, I could do any component damage or a DCT car is programmed to handle such situations(hard acceleration from low speed, high gear, low rpm). Probably no harm done, as Jajodu also replied above. In any case, I plan on doing better from now on, because my immediate personal sensation was: "oops, thay was not good".
 
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So I’ve had car few months now and it went into Hyundai for 5th-6th synchro replacement under warranty, they also said clutch was worn (42k miles ) and asked if wanted replaced.
Work got carried out and have had car back over week but when idling not in gear I can hear/feel ticking kind noise that disappears when I press clutch in.
I presumed it would be thrust bearing but garage confirmed this was also changed during new clutch being fitted.
They seem think it’s normal but I just don’t remember it being there before car went in.
Could it be anything else or do you think it just needs to bed in ( done about 300 miles since fitted )
 
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