Brilliant thanks for all your help. Think I will be sorted now!Exactly that.
Brilliant thanks for all your help. Think I will be sorted now!Exactly that.
Ive managed to get the pin out and the connection on the wire is a kind of fork shape.That's oje of the antenna connections, they're usually a signal wire surrounded by an earthing braid, which one is it? There are two, I've attached a connector drawing.
That's the radio antenna connection, try an internet search for that type of connector. I'm intrigued, just how did you manage to damage that??.
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I had it all connected back up and reinserted the head unit back in but didnt notice the antenna cable was snagged so it pulled off as i was insertinf
That's the radio antenna connection, try an internet search for that type of connector. I'm intrigued, just how did you manage to damage that??.
There's two radio antenna, that looks like the dab one.would that receive the fm/am and DAB signal?
Shameless grab from an older post of mine.Because I'm not really into the audio business... What can I do best?
I'm thinking of installing the Pioneer GM D1004 AMP to boost the speakers a bit. When I'm busy I can easily replace all 4 stock speakers with something more quality.
What is better to use? Front and rear a compo set? Or front compo and rear coax? I heard tweeters should be high up like in the dash where they are stock and not low to the floor, so using a coax set in the rear wouldn't be the best option? Any suggestions?![]()
^This.
It all comes down to personal preference and how much money you are willing to spend.
Also, I recommend going to a hifi shop or to someone who can actually configure the system to your liking as this is key.
To allow more adjustability as well as easier future upgrades, I would start off with a Mosconi DSP.
Why Mosconi? Well, they did lots of development work for their PICO DSP Lineup in the i30N. When you purchase such a DSP, it will come with a base map which cleans up the f*cked up signal from the head unit. This means it's easier to setup your car for good sound and its also easier to add/change speakers/subwoofers since the dsp offers all connections.
Since MOSCONI also offers a cable loom for the i30N you don't even need to cut any cables. IMHO best starting point when combined with proper sound dampening.
After you did all that, listen to the system for a while (like a few weeks) and notice if you are lacking something soundwise. Then you are upgrading the sound to your liking and not to something someone said is good.
Thank you both for the info!
Do you have a link to this Mosconi DSP by any chance?![]()
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Pioneer sound upgrade deluxe w/subwoofer is due to arrive on the 17th. I know there are some things to watch for in the install...
I can handle a professional looking installation but I'm asking if there is anything else I should know before I start. I'm supposed to have everything I need but will be upset if I have to drive to Bauhaus or Mediamarkt while my car is torn apart.
- Remove blue and white wires from processor to eliminate "pop" when starting up.
- For easy access place sound processor in glovebox, can also be (jammed) behind infotainment cluster <- I'll be placing it in the glove box.
- "Carefully" remove tweeter grilles. <- I just went ahead and ordered replacement ones just in case I damage the old ones during removal. Read this happens pretty easily.
Cheers.
You can purchase a terminal pin removal/install kit from eBay. and the replacement pins.Ive managed to get the pin out and the connection on the wire is a kind of fork shape.
Will attach pics
There's only one wire to cut, if I remember correctly it's a blue/white wire at the amp end of the cable harness.Pioneer sound upgrade deluxe w/subwoofer is due to arrive on the 17th. I know there are some things to watch for in the install...
I can handle a professional looking installation but I'm asking if there is anything else I should know before I start. I'm supposed to have everything I need but will be upset if I have to drive to Bauhaus or Mediamarkt while my car is torn apart.
- Remove blue and white wires from processor to eliminate "pop" when starting up.
- For easy access place sound processor in glovebox, can also be (jammed) behind infotainment cluster <- I'll be placing it in the glove box.
- "Carefully" remove tweeter grilles. <- I just went ahead and ordered replacement ones just in case I damage the old ones during removal. Read this happens pretty easily.
Cheers.
There's only one wire to cut, if I remember correctly it's a blue/white wire at the amp end of the cable harness.
Didn't like the stuff it in the glovebox solution, make a small metal plate that you can attach to two 6mm studs that are protruding from the crash beam.
To remove the Tweeter grilles, get a long piece of thin wood and push up from under the dash while observing the location by removing the dash end pads. Press hard enough on the grilles from underneath and they'll pop up sufficiently to lever them out with a trim tool.
AFAIK the new tweeters are just glued to the speaker grille from the underside. Get some strong glue I guess. Personally, I generally dislike the way the sound upgrade is installed. Especially since it is an "official" accessory.
It took me ages to decide where to mount it, once cable ties to my home made bracket I placed foam sound deadening in strategic locations to prevent unwanted rattles. Touch wood it's been great.Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the tips, Jim.
I got a really good deal on it and it comes with everything I need so I couldn't pass it up. I've come to the conclusion that replacing anything on/in this car is a significant chore so I'm going to give myself 4 hours to do it. I haven't done a full audio install on a car in 15 years, I'm hoping the rules of electricity haven't changed...![]()