• Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!

My i20N

Hi,
regarding your engine tuning stage, I guess you do not run the 0w-20 oil spec anymore.
If you do use 0w-30, 5w-30 or even thicker, did you ever experienced any noticable differences in terms of engine behaviour/smoothness or even DTC/error code regarding camshaft Phaser timing speed due to the thicker oil?
Thank you
Sorry for the slow response but I’ve been distracted by non-car issues. I still use the recommended 0W-20 though it has been dealership serviced so who knows what they have put in it. What I can confirm is that I have not noticed any engine running issues and I have had no error codes. But to complicate matters the engine mounts are now so stiff that every vibration from the engine is clearly felt and you can feel as the engine warms up and becomes smoother. How much this has to do with the oil is impossible to separate from the engine mounting (The lower engine mount is the Airtec billet* one and the other two are Powerflex Black).

* I strongly recommend the Airtec (or the Whiteline which is very similar) as it’s appreciably better at maintaining grip than even the Powerflex Black. The negative, if you view it as such, is significantly increased transmitted vibration.
 
Interesting, I would not use a 0w20 with the tune from a technical perspective.
Also from the warranty side as you do get problems with warranty anyway with the tuning
 
I’m not sure what point your are making regarding the warranty but obviously I’m aware of warranty issues regarding tuned cars. As for your statement regarding the oil used - why would you not use the grade recommended - just stating you wouldn’t do it isn’t much use?
 
  • Like
Reactions: det09
Higher pressure and temperatures at every critical point of the engine (piston, rings, valves and of course bearings).
You wear and shear the oil faster than with OEM engine. You want to have a higher hths and hot viscosity. Also better Noack for less inlet valve deposit. Also you have more oil dilution (more fuel). Just read the Infos in the Internet.
 
It looks like I would be better changing to Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 or similar. Or 0w-30 has also been suggested to me.
 
Last edited:
Today I managed to corner my friend Dave and together we fitted the Forge Turbo Muffler delete that I bought some weeks ago (second hand but as new). As others have said, this is a very fiddly job! Mainly because it is directly under the point where the air intake enters the turbo - so it’s at the back of the engine bay and low down beneath other stuff. In fact you can’t see the whole part - you can just about make out the two ends and so access is the primary problem. So we took out the batter, disconnected one end of the strut brace (you may not have one) and removed the air intake (certainly the hose). Then you have to disconnect two cables and one has a bracket that needs to be unbolted and remove the turbo inlet connector (that the intake pipe connects to). All of this is just to get the access you need to do the job and even then it’s fiddly and awkward. We ended up using a specialist clip compressor we happened to have and both of our socket sets to get the combination of sockets and extensions needed - took about 2 hours.
So, was it worth it……? Umm, maybe but probably not. I can’t feel any difference in how the car drives but there may well be a bit more turbo whistle. My car wasn’t exactly quiet before this mod so it’s really just another drop in the ocean. The replacement Forge part is nicely made and fits well - but the stock part is also nicely made and the differences between the two, although clearing existing, are not as obvious as with some mods. I’m afraid I don’t have any pictures as there’s nothing much to see - just a glimpse of orange pipe buried deep in the engine bay. I think this is the first Forge part I’ve fitted to my car and the on-line instructions were very good with clear step-by-step pictures and explanation of each stage.

IMG_3157.jpeg
Stock turbo muffler pipe at the top compared to the lower Forge version
 
Last edited:
Well I’ve now driven my car a little more and there is definitely a bit more turbo whoosh and whistle - not vast, but clearly there. I don’t know how much there would be on a stock car which didn’t have a rebuilt hybrid turbo, but there we are.