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My i20N

As usual, you have provided an excellent description. Also, you have unknowingly helped me out a bit.
I would never willingly try to change that part on my car but at least I now know what it is.
I was recently driving in a particularly rough part of East London. I was going incredibly slowly over some savage speed bumps and one particular speed bump hit something under the car making a nasty metallic scraping noise. On inspection the front of the car was completely untouched but the mount in your pictures was scuffed. So now I know what it is!
With my limited mechanical knowledge, I am presuming everything is fine because the engine has not fallen out 😳😆
 
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It will be fine 👍. Even if it broke, or became detached, the car would still work but you might get a knocking sound when you accelerated.
 
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I went for a ‘spirited’ test drive today and I have to say the Airtec torque mount is very effective! Acceleration is extremely immediate and wheel hop is non-existent. Transmitted vibration is slightly higher in frequency which I guess is because the connection is now stiffer.
 
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A bit more progress on my speaker pods. The final alignment has been locked in using a laser sight and they have been set level so the logos line up nicely.

laser pointer fitted to speaker mounting:

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cardboard stands in for the driver and the target for the laser sight:

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stick used to check level:

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First layer of filler applied - this stuff has strands of fibreglass in it and is nothing like normal car body filler!

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I use one, and on several hard blasts the can picks up some down cooled aerosol.

I prefer a catch can as it should keeps the intercooler clean and also of course the hole inlet manifold, valves & burning chambers.
 
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I don't use oke but in general you should be safe that you don't have a deep hose area where water can freeze in winter conditions.
 
I use one, and on several hard blasts the can picks up some down cooled aerosol.

I prefer a catch can as it should keeps the intercooler clean and also of course the hole inlet manifold, valves & burning chambers.
Which one do you have - Airtec or Forge? Any issues?
 
More for heavy used track cars arent they?
Honestly, I don’t know - but, in theory at least, engines of the sort the i20N has are ideal candidates.
 
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now imagine if he had a 3d scanner and printer...
there'd be quite a few people yelling at him to take their money...
I’ve looked into getting a 3D scanner but they are still pretty expensive - the type I would like seem to start about £800.00. Also, whilst an iPhone can be used mine isn’t sufficiently new to do it well. I do have a stand-alone copy of Solidworks and a (quite old) 3D printer.

I've put some more filler on the speaker pods and given them an initial sand. At this rate I may have them finished by the end of next week.
 
the main thing that would stop me considering a decent stereo upgrade is that the oem speaker mounts would be cut to hell and i'd be worried about the finish.

If there were some models for the tweeter and the dash insert panels with a couple of common mounting size options i could have the panels printed and save my oem ones...

the oem sub size and position is a bit of a limiter too. i want my boot usable, but not sure that there's an aftermarket sub option that could replace the oem without getting in the way of the normal use of the boot.
 
Well, I’ve bought spares of the part I’m modifying so I can revert everything to stock very easily. I got the spares from eBay as this part is shared with the standard i20 it was quite cheap (£50 for the pair - look brand new).
Door speakers don’t require anything to be cut up they just need adaptor rings and these are easily bought.
My sub-woofer is mounted in the spare wheel well and the inside of the boot looks completely stock. I didn’t option the Bose system though so my car didn’t come with a sub-woofer fitted. There’s no need to print anything as such. The stock drive units can just be unscrewed and replaced - what I’m doing here is pretty hard core and only for the committed.
However, if you are new to all of this you need a professional car audio company to do all the work and they will advise on parts, components and fitting options.
 
Which one do you have - Airtec or Forge? Any issues?
I use a standard Mishimoto replica for 15-25€, then added some hoses and Motorsport fittings which are in the right diameter. These and the hoses and clamps are more expensive, than the catch can itself.

Also needed custom O-rings for the fittings and a better quality & slightly thicker O-ring for proper sealing of the can.

The bronze fine filter is screwed in with golden band, that's a thicker premium PTFE band, because the thread was so loose!

The overall costs for my customized catch-can were about 70-90€, didn't want to spend houndreds of Euros.

No issues!
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