My i20N

[YNWaN]

The delayed turbo spool, is minimal when you make long time accelerations. When it is annoying, is on rallying or b roads with many turns, when during turns you want to control the behaviour of the car with small press and lift off accelerator movements. The difference between 2 good fwd cars (i20n, civic type-r ep3) both with lsd at the front is very noticable. At the ep3, there is a very linear behaviour, when you press the accelerator pedal or lift off, and car responds immediatelly. On the contrary in my i20n, you have to forcast and do the press - lift off, a fragment of the second previously, so the car will act a bit later. This is even more obvious with wagner intercooler in this particular way of driving (B-roads, tight turns or very mall circuits like megara in Greece).

As always you write a very interesting and thought provoking post. In the U.K. all my ‘spirited’ driving is of the rallying type of driving you describe and flat out full throttle is never more than a few seconds and often a second or less - most roads can be done entirely in 3rd with occasional dips to 2nd for tight turns. I think Hyundai have done some slightly strange things with the electronic speed of the throttle response - possibly to make it easier to drive at low speeds. I have a ‘pedal box’ and I realise how this works but it does allow the throttle to open significantly more quickly than even the most extreme Hyundai setting. As long as you are 3000rpm this means that boost is similar to the response of NA.

 

[YNWaN]

That's where it will come in in my case, being in Australia with long drives and hot weather. It's not even "officially" summer and we're getting days in the mid 30's.

I can completely see how it makes total sense for you and would almost say an uprated Intercooler is a must for you. Unfortunately, the more I think about it the more I question whether I should have made this ‘upgrade’. it doesn’t seem to have done any immediate harm but let us see how the upcoming stage 2 tune impacts things.

 

[Zealot]

Yeah, I have a full exhaust and tuning coming up soon also, so I expect the larger cooler will be of benefit then.

 

[gpaaa]

As always you write a very interesting and thought provoking post. In the U.K. all my ‘spirited’ driving is of the rallying type of driving you describe and flat out full throttle is never more than a few seconds and often a second or less - most roads can be done entirely in 3rd with occasional dips to 2nd for tight turns. I think Hyundai have done some slightly strange things with the electronic speed of the throttle response - possibly to make it easier to drive at low speeds. I have a ‘pedal box’ and I realise how this works but it does allow the throttle to open significantly more quickly than even the most extreme Hyundai setting. As long as you are 3000rpm this means that boost is similar to the response of NA.

8 months ago, i drove a stock i20n, with intercooler, but without pedal box and it was annoying comparing it, with an ep3 type_r in tight turns, because of the increased lag. The cure, i proposed and is working very good since then, was a pedal box, exactly as you correctly described my friend in the above post

 

[YNWaN]

A couple of updates:

The first is about the Topdon Artidiag600S. This is a small(ish) unit that plugs into the OBD2 port and can completely check, diagnose and clear all the cars systems and faults. It has a touch screen and network connectivity which means its software can be easily updated. What it can’t do is get into the control software and make changes. These kind of changes will require the ECU to be much more thoroughly cracked than they are at present.

I was on the motorway recently and flipped the car into Eco mode. Shortly after the engine management light came on together with a helpful instruction on the central screen to say there was an issue with the O2 sensor. This sort of behaviour is not uncommon when running a sports CAT and GPF delete. The car behaved fine but when I got home I ran the Artidiag600S and confirmed it was an exhaust sensor - so I cleared the fault code and the light has not come on again since.

 

[YNWaN]

My next bit of news is that I somehow managed to kerb one of my beloved alloy wheels



So I took my car in to a local company that has specialised in wheel refurbishment for some years now (info@rswheels.co.uk). In one day they stripped, refinished and powder coated the wheel - then they refitted the tyre, balanced the wheel with black weights and bolted it back on. Total cost was £63.00 and it carries a 12 month guarantee.



All better now after a full refurb . So, I thought I would look up what the official finish is and OZ seem to state that their wheels are anodised. Now I’m not sure what’s going on here, perhaps an issue with Italian translation, but they are definitely not anodised and nor are any alloy wheels I’ve ever seen! The new wheel finish looks exactly like the other three - it’s a touch shinier in the picture but that’s because it’s a lot cleaner.

 

[Model 500]

Did my wheel a while back ahhhhh really annoying,got it back to new a few days later…

 

[YNWaN]

Did my wheel a while back ahhhhh really annoying,got it back to new a few days later…

They did a really nice job though . Is it powder coated and did you leave it up to them to match the colour? In my case the wheels are clearly a plain satin black - although OZ Racing call it matte black (it obviously isn’t), so it was easy to match

 

[gpaaa]

A couple of updates:

The first is about the Topdon Artidiag600S. This is a small(ish) unit that plugs into the OBD2 port and can completely check, diagnose and clear all the cars systems and faults. It has a touch screen and network connectivity which means its software can be easily updated. What it can’t do is get into the control software and make changes. These kind of changes will require the ECU to be much more thoroughly cracked than they are at present.

I was on the motorway recently and flipped the car into Eco mode. Shortly after the engine management light came on together with a helpful instruction on the central screen to say there was an issue with the O2 sensor. This sort of behaviour is not uncommon when running a sports CAT and GPF delete. The car behaved fine but when I got home I ran the Artidiag600S and confirmed it was an exhaust sensor - so I cleared the fault code and the light has not come on again since.

View attachment 25985

This is a very good piece of kit , which helps a lot specially with moded cars. Congrats!

 

[Model 500]

They did a really nice job though . Is it powder coated and did you leave it up to them to match the colour? In my case the wheels are clearly a plain satin black - although OZ Racing call it matte black (it obviously isn’t), so it was easy to match

To be honest I don’t really know what process was used, I had a couple of companies that refused the job because they said they couldn’t match the colour,i used a mobile refurbishment company in the end the guy matched the paint on the job.
very happy with result looks like new and a perfect match.

 

[Zealot]

Question regarding the Topdon scan tool. Is the English language usage good and correct? I have a Launch CRP123X and you can tell they didn't pay a decent translator. You can make out what they want to say, but it's still annoying. If the Topdon is better, I might grab one, as I can get one for $183AU at the moment.

 

[YNWaN]

Question regarding the Topdon scan tool. Is the English language usage good and correct? I have a Launch CRP123X and you can tell they didn't pay a decent translator. You can make out what they want to say, but it's still annoying. If the Topdon is better, I might grab one, as I can get one for $183AU at the moment.

I haven’t used it all that much but I have had a good look through the menus and the English all seems good to me.

 

[YNWaN]

My latest update is that I’m changing all my engine mounts to Powerflex black. The ’dog bone’ lower engine mount already has Powerflex purple bushings but I’m going to stiffen them even further and go with the black ones. In addition I’m modifying the upper engine mount with a black insert and also the gearbox mount (this is effectively the third engine mount). I just need some half decent weather as I’ll be doing this outside.

 

[i_twenty_N]

Are you sure? So the jelly ones will stay, but with added inserts. The black poly material is very ridged, maybe to ridged.

 

[YNWaN]

Are you sure? So the jelly ones will stay, but with added inserts. The black poly material is very ridged, maybe to ridged.

That’s how the Powerflex ones work - for the top engine and gearbox mounts they fit within the existing mounts and take up the free space that already exists. So they kind of convert the existing mount into a much more solid, semi-rigid, mount.
As to whether I’m sure as to whether I want to do it, well yes. My car is more of a toy than a daily user so I’m fine with it being noisy, uncomfortable and twitchy - in fact I actually like it that way. But, if it is too much for me I’ll just take them out and revert to the previous set up .

 

[YNWaN]

Are you sure? So the jelly ones will stay, but with added inserts. The black poly material is very ridged, maybe to ridged.

Hey mate, I don't think I answered your comment very well so I’m having another go . So I’ve looked at videos on Hyundai engine mounts being replaced and also the Powerflex fitting instructions (where they exist). It looks like the rubber bushings for both the gearbox support and the top engine mount are physically moulded into the metalwork. When garages change the bushes they seem to replace the entire metal components too. As a result, the Powerflex bushes for these parts are not replacement bushes as such, they are inserts that fit within the existing bushes and make them into solid bushes where part is Polyflex and part is the OEM rubber.
As you say, the black bushes are very stiff and perhaps I will find them too stiff - but unless I try it I just won’t know. I’ve not read of anybody changing the upper engine mount or the gearbox mount so I’ve not got much to go on. I do expect more engine vibration but exactly how much is anyone’s guess. My car has only done 10,000 miles so the existing bushes should still be in pretty good shape (I hope).

 

[YNWaN]

Thanks to a post on Facebook I’ve encountered a problem that I suspect all i20 owners will have. That problem is that when you direct air to your feet the air doesn’t get directed. The reason for this is because the flaps that redirect the air do not move and that’s because a pivot has become disconnected.

I‘ve taken some photos and have done a bit of an easy ‘step by step’ how to do it for people who may not feel confident:

The job is easy enough to do but the last bit is a bit fiddly. The damping strut on the glove box is on the side of the passenger door and you can just pull that off. Reach right to the back of the glovebox sides and push them inward to unclip the back stop. The glovebox walls are cut at this point to allow the flex. Then, underneath, on the transmission tunnel side, there is an opening you can see the sliding pivot part and the pin part. There isn’t much room for your hand (not if your hands are my size anyway) and you have to sort of push forward on the slot part (A) whilst pulling out a bit on the pin part (B). Even when they go together there is a gap between them. When you operate the switch you can see the gap reduces and then opens again so somewhere deep in the dash there is some minor misalignment of some part. Oh, there is a lot of grease!

 

[YNWaN]

On a quite different note I’ve taken advantage of the recent 30% off Whiteline sale and purchased a couple of items.

 

[gpaaa]

On a quite different note I’ve taken advantage of the recent 30% off Whiteline sale and purchased a couple of items.

View attachment 26043View attachment 26044

25 years ago i had bought a rear adjustable sway bar for my nissan sunny Gti from whiteline. Swaybar produced more grip for sure and after some tests i decided to put the sway bar to the most "stiff" side to see what will happen. Result was that at tight turns car behaved like a rear wheel drive! It was reallly fun! Congrats!

 

[YNWaN]

25 years ago i had bought a rear adjustable sway bar for my nissan sunny Gti from whiteline. Swaybar produced more grip for sure and after some tests i decided to put the sway bar to the most "stiff" side to see what will happen. Result was that at tight turns car behaved like a rear wheel drive! It was reallly fun! Congrats!

It was your opinion that helped sway my decision