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Brake pads

I put some brand new dba t3 4000 with some endless mx72+.
After a few laps on the nurburgring I think the rotors are warped. Crazy vibration when braking even on the street.
I paid 500 euros for these discs but they are shit.
The pad is great though
 
I put some brand new dba t3 4000 with some endless mx72+.
After a few laps on the nurburgring I think the rotors are warped. Crazy vibration when braking even on the street.
I paid 500 euros for these discs but they are shit.
The pad is great though
Seems like this is one of those areas where throwing money at the problem doesn't necessarily improve things. The rotor and the pads must get along well together in order to produce any improvement. Though I've also read many instances where a matched set of the same brand also didn't work. Go figure.

Having said that, my impression is that rotors are closer to the bottom of the list of things with the most impact in braking. I see them more as heatsinks. Increasing the diameter brings more heat capacity with added mass and cooling surface at the expense of higher unsprung and rotational mass.
 
Hi everyone,

I won the Turkish Touring Car Championship last year using the stock calipers, and I wanted to share some of my experiences regarding the braking issues we face with these cars.

First of all, the biggest problem on our cars is the amount of heat generated in the calipers and discs, and how difficult it is to keep them cool.

I have tested almost every brake pad and disc combination that has been discussed in this forum. I ended up completing the season with Tarox discs and Tarox pads, mainly because this pad compound has a relatively lower coefficient of friction and does not generate extremely high peak temperatures at the initial bite.

I have also tried almost every brake cooling solution mentioned here. Having tested them myself, I can honestly say that none of them made a significant difference.

For track day use, however, you have one advantage: you have the opportunity to cool the brakes between sessions. For that reason, I would recommend using the Tarox Corsa pad and disc combination and doing an occasional cool-down lap to keep temperatures under control. :)

Otherwise, you may eventually find yourself needing more professional and expensive solutions, just as I did.
Thanks for sharing your experience, you've probably pushed this car further than most of us here in this forum.

Your comment about cooling solutions (assuming mostly airflow related and well executed) proves that there is actually very little we can do in the way of improving cooling of the brakes which means the stock design is pretty efficient to begin with.

I believe pad selection inevitably comes down to availability at one point, because not every brand is as readily available anywhere in the world, limiting the already scarce options for comparison.

What pads have you tried with stock (or not) discs so far?
 
Did you brake in the new discs & pads?
yes I did a few stops from 120 to 30kph.
AFter that the brakes started squealing like crazy at parking speeds ( which is expected) after a few laps the squealing dissapeared and the vibration started.

I read online that it might be worth scrubing the rotors with some Scotch-Brite but not sure if that's a good idea
 
Seems like this is one of those areas where throwing money at the problem doesn't necessarily improve things. The rotor and the pads must get along well together in order to produce any improvement. Though I've also read many instances where a matched set of the same brand also didn't work. Go figure.

Having said that, my impression is that rotors are closer to the bottom of the list of things with the most impact in braking. I see them more as heatsinks. Increasing the diameter brings more heat capacity with added mass and cooling surface at the expense of higher unsprung and rotational mass.
I agree.. At this point I might get some stock rotors next time or some plain zimmermans with a more aggressive pad (eg endless me22)