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TarmoT 385bhp/526Nm i30ntracktoy - SOLD

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Sorry - I wasn´t correct on terms. It is not turbo lag I was thinking about but it was a turbo spool time.
Turbo lag is the time between you are pressing the accelerator pedal until the turbo starts spooling up. Turbo spool time is the time it takes for you turbocharger from it starts spooling up until the engine reaches the full turbo pressure.
 
#1 - ECM has to adapt (~45-100 miles).
#2 - Of course you should remap to adjust the torque/power curve based on the turbo change.
#3 - Why no WAI now?
 
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Cygnus X-1 said:
#3 - Why no WAI now?
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1. We want to see first what that turbo upgrade will give us
2. My tuner has no experience with WMI cars and I need to find another tuner later if I want to use it (but another tuners might not have experience with ECU of Hyundai).
3. We don´t need more than 350bhp on track.
 
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Still the turbo shouldnt take >4000 rpm to deliver noticable power if your hot side is stock. Of course it takes the bigger turbine longer to boost up to the full air flow but thats only because the overall air flow is bigger. So building up to the OEM air flow shouldnt take long. Did you log boost pressure? But as I said, could just be your software not being up to the task anymore with the modified turbo.
 
TarmoT said:
My tuner has no experience with WMI
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Your tuner should welcome the challenge of learning something new.

The additional intake temperature cooling it provides and the alcohol (depending on how much is in the mix) can act as a mild fuel supplement which will help spool the turbo a bit earlier.

Once I get my WAI system fitted, I’ll show results from an unorthodox configuration that will keep WAI active even in slight vacuum conditions, with the results being sub-ambient IATs nearly all the time (whilst moving).
 
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without said:
if your hot side is stock. Of course it takes the bigger turbine longer to boost up
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Hot side IS the turbine. Cold side is the compressor, which is what you meant as being bigger, as was shown in earlier pics.

Since the size relationship between the two wheels has changed, there is a slight loss in transitional response which is what’s now being experienced. It can be overcome with tuning.
 
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Ah come one, you know what i meant by “cold side turbine” and “hot side turbine”.

That’s exactly what I was talking about: you can experience some kind of loss due to changing only one side but I think it should not be as big as it sounds from what tarmot says.
 
If I didn’t point it out, someone else would’ve. I did it to avoid confusion of others reading along, some of which may have no turbo experience whatsoever. A turbine is a turbine and a compressor is a compressor. Let’s use the correct terminology going forward, please.

FEA74991-261D-432A-9B91-1C2B29139EE7.jpeg
 
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Hello!

With modified Hardware, like Upgrade Turbo its everytime necessary to make an new mapping. Without, like Tarmo wrote the Power will drop. The HRE Upgrade Turbo for Tarmos Car is build to create more Power in higher revs, also with stock Turbineside. Here it was more important to raise efficiency. So we used an Custom Made Billet wheel. Same weight like the OEM one, but slightly bigger. If we reach 30PS more then an stock Turbo at same Boostlevel, we reached our Target.

Good luck Tarmo! We keep in touch my friend!
 
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R Veloster N said:
How did you deal with the seat airbags errors, if you don't mind me asking.
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2-3 ohm resistors for each air bag connector, they can be inserted directly into the open end of the air bag connectors with no modifications to the connectors, just some electrical tape to keep them held in place. I had to do it on mine when I put my aftermarket steering wheel/hub and seat in as well. can be bought at any electronics/hobby shop for cheap.

For the passenger side, there's an extra passenger occupant sensor that requires another resistor. I can't remember what the spec for this one needed to be, I'll need to do some more research as I still haven't swapped my passenger seat in yet.
 
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