Engine Oil thread

[1FastStagea]

If you don't track your car or live in a very hot climate stick to 5w30. Pennzoil ultra platinum is a good, cheap and readily available 5w30. Pretty much anything from Motul or AMSoil is good too but obviously more expensive.

I'm running the 5w30 Liquimoly that I posted earlier, and even in -25°C weather I don't hear any excessive valvetrain or bottom end noise on startup.

 

[Y0UKN0WITSCHRIS]

So any update on Hyundai's oil weight recommendations as far as the 5W-40 is concerned? Can't find 0W-30 locally here in PA and was considering 5W-30 instead. These, and the 0W-30, are all recommended for the same temp range.

I’m running 5w30 in mine w/o issue and you can always have it shipped to your house

 

[smichael]

Thanks. Actually found that Walmart carries the 0W-30 AFE here. Wanted to change the factory fill out tomorrow so online ordering is out.

 

[RXer-Brady]

I’m on Castrol Edge 5w-30 for my first change because that’s all the dealer had available. I’ll switch to Amsoil SS next time when I start changing it myself. Not sure if I’ll use 5w-40 in the summer or stick with 5w-30.

 

[Y0UKN0WITSCHRIS]

Page 8-8 the previous page does say 0w-30

So any update on Hyundai's oil weight recommendations as far as the 5W-40 is concerned? Can't find 0W-30 locally here in PA and was considering 5W-30 instead. These, and the 0W-30, are all recommended for the same temp range.

See post above it should be fine
0/5w30 and 5w40 are listed for a broad variation of temps

 

[dacho]

I use Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3 0W-30

 

[smichael]

I’m on Castrol Edge 5w-30 for my first change because that’s all the dealer had available. I’ll switch to Amsoil SS next time when I start changing it myself. Not sure if I’ll use 5w-40 in the summer or stick with 5w-30.

Just wanted to stick with the factory fill weight for now. I will probably run 5W-40 in the summer since the car will see many autox and track days. Saw quite a bit of shine in the oil today when I drained it at 350 miles which was about what I expected. I would have liked to do it sooner but timing didn't work out. Installed a magnetic plug and will change oil again at 700 and 1500 just to see how it looks. Also might send a sample to Blackstone next change for curiosity's sake.

 

[Y0UKN0WITSCHRIS]

Just wanted to stick with the factory fill weight for now. I will probably run 5W-40 in the summer since the car will see many autox and track days. Saw quite a bit of shine in the oil today when I drained it at 350 miles which was about what I expected. I would have liked to do it sooner but timing didn't work out. Installed a magnetic plug and will change oil again at 700 and 1500 just to see how it looks. Also might send a sample to Blackstone next change for curiosity's sake.

I finally got around to changing mine at 900 miles and there was very lil metal shavings in it but it was blacker than the night. I did keep my filter and plan on chopping it open when I get some free time just to see what was all captured if anything

 

[Carolina_Autos]

So I took mine to the dealer this morning at 550 miles and asked them to do the oil change and check a few other things for me, and the tech was saying we should leave the break-in oil in for 3700 miles. He didn't say where he got this figure but I dipped the oil last night and it was pretty dark so I told him to go ahead and change it anyway. What's the conventional wisdom behind changing the break-in oil after 500 to 600 miles?

 

[Cygnus X-1]

Get all the metal bits and assembly lube out of there, of course.

See if you can find out what the factory oil consists of and specifically why it should be left in so long.

 

[Carolina_Autos]

I'll ask him when I go to pick it up

 

[Carolina_Autos]

Well the tech I talked to this morning wasn't there when I picked up my car this afternoon

 

[RXer-Brady]

What are your thoughts on a ACEA A3/B4 rated oil like the Castrol 0w-30? I don’t know the difference between C2/C3 and A3/B4 but doesn’t A3/B4 protect better than SN Plus? There is a Castrol Edge C3 5w-30 so it better to obey the cap or the suggested C3 rating?

The only SN, C3 rated 0w-30s I see are PP Euro LX, M1 ESP, and Shell Ultra Helix ECT. I like Castrol because it’s affordable on Amazon, but I can make sacrifices for my VN.

 

[Cygnus X-1]

Unless you’re moving to Europe, you don’t need to get hung up on ACEA. SN Plus oils are fine and targeted towards turbocharged GDI engines, in order to prevent LSPI. I don’t think it will be a problem on this engine, at least not unless blow-by (fuel dilution) starts happening and combustion chambers get super dirty.

 

[RXer-Brady]

I ended up ordering Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30 for $25 per 5 qt jug on Amazon. I wanted to obey the oil cap but the only 0w30 available for a reasonable price was Mobile 1 AFE which has mixed reviews.

 

[Cygnus X-1]

PUP is a fine choice. Strangely, there aren’t too many 0W-30 choices. Most OEMs are starting to move towards 0W-20 and 0W-16 is on the horizon.

 

[Cygnus X-1]

This guy does some interesting testing of various products. Currently doing an “oil championship” tournament to find the best 5W-30 synthetic in terms of scar wear resistance, cold flow, volatility/oxidation and cold flow after volativity/oxidation burnoff.

Once you get familiar with the format of the first vid, just fast forward to the data for each test in the other vids. He doesn’t tare the container weight out for the volatility test like a good chemist should, so those results can be a bit confusing.

Some quite surprising results:

 

[Nomad17]

Being my first turbo gdi and sticking to 3000 mile intervals I decided to focus more on finding a low saps true synthetic oil that hopefully contributes less to deposits and meets all the lspi requirements. Thinking about trying this Ravenol dxg, on paper it looks like a good fit. Anyone have experience with it?

 

[Cygnus X-1]

Ravenol DXG 5W-30 looks good to me!

PAO-based (Group IV)
SN Plus (Anti-LSPI)
NOACK (volatility): 6.0% (outstanding!)
Flashpoint: 256°C (outstanding!)
SAPS well below 1.0

 

[Cygnus X-1]

By the way, following up on the Project Farm “oil championship” I previously posted.

The finals are between two oils I’ve personally advocated and used for several years now on the VT1...

AMSOIL Signature Series vs. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum:

Epilogue: There are some really good bargain SN Plus oils, such as Amazon Basics and (Walmart) SuperTech that actually did very well. If you watch the other vids for those two (in my previous post), you’ll find out who makes them (not who you’d expect).