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My i20N
- Thread starter YNWaN
- Start date
Twice as expensive as the next most expensive - a rather silly purchase in retrospect. Anyway, it hasn’t arrived yet as they are made to order - it’s this one:Those billet ones never look very comfy, forge has a very ugly one imo.
The current carbon smooth round one looks nice... How expensive was the next one
One thing is look, another one is experienced… and for me I just talk about what I experienced and not about what it’s look for me.Those billet ones never look very comfy, forge has a very ugly one imo.
The current carbon smooth round one looks nice... How expensive was the next one
The rally shifters didn’t look good but they are really effective.
Options
I think part of the problem with this one’s cost is that it starts off as the knob from an N Hyundai and then it’s modified. So you are paying for the cost of the knob and then their labour, materials and profit.
Today myself and my mate Dave fitted the new RPM Performance subframe brace:
www.rpmperformances.co.uk
This is what RPM have to say about it:
“At RPM Performance, we are excited to offer lower subframe braces for the Hyundai I20N, I30N, Kona N, and Veloster N models.
These braces significantly reduce wheel hop and dramatically improve handling. By connecting both inner wishbone bolts, the brace prevents the wishbones from pulling towards each other.
Adding the brace effectively strengthens the subframe. During harsh cornering and acceleration, the wishbones tend to flex on their mounting bolts. This lateral force is transferred into the subframe, and the brace helps to prevent this flexing.
Installation is straightforward: simply remove two bolts and attach the brace to the subframe.
Importantly, this brace does not make the ride in your vehicle harsher.”
Suitable for all Hyundai N performance models.
Regarding the fitting it’s not quite as simple as RPM suggest as the two bolts you have to remove have nuts on the other end and these are not captive. What we did was - handbrake firmly on, Jack up one side of the car and put an axle stand under the sill where the front jacking point is, do the same for the other side, remove both front wheels, undo the described bolts, fit brace and bolt it back together.
If you use a trolley jack, as we did, you might well find there is very little clearance for it under the car and if your car is lowered you might find that there isn’t enough room for the jack, if that is the case then it’s probably time to invest in a low profile trolley jack…
This brace connects to the same point as the front suspension lower wishbone and you really want to release pressure n the front suspension when fitting it. Also, if you don’t remove the front wheels it will make access to the nuts very difficult.I did go for a ‘spirited’ drive and was very surprised by the improvement in front end grip!
Hyundai I20N / I30N / Kona N / Veloster N Subframe Brace
Enhance your Hyundai N model's performance with a subframe brace from RPM Performance. Reduce wheel hop and improve handling without compromising comfort.
www.rpmperformances.co.uk
This is what RPM have to say about it:
“At RPM Performance, we are excited to offer lower subframe braces for the Hyundai I20N, I30N, Kona N, and Veloster N models.
These braces significantly reduce wheel hop and dramatically improve handling. By connecting both inner wishbone bolts, the brace prevents the wishbones from pulling towards each other.
Adding the brace effectively strengthens the subframe. During harsh cornering and acceleration, the wishbones tend to flex on their mounting bolts. This lateral force is transferred into the subframe, and the brace helps to prevent this flexing.
Installation is straightforward: simply remove two bolts and attach the brace to the subframe.
Importantly, this brace does not make the ride in your vehicle harsher.”
Suitable for all Hyundai N performance models.
Regarding the fitting it’s not quite as simple as RPM suggest as the two bolts you have to remove have nuts on the other end and these are not captive. What we did was - handbrake firmly on, Jack up one side of the car and put an axle stand under the sill where the front jacking point is, do the same for the other side, remove both front wheels, undo the described bolts, fit brace and bolt it back together.
If you use a trolley jack, as we did, you might well find there is very little clearance for it under the car and if your car is lowered you might find that there isn’t enough room for the jack, if that is the case then it’s probably time to invest in a low profile trolley jack…
This brace connects to the same point as the front suspension lower wishbone and you really want to release pressure n the front suspension when fitting it. Also, if you don’t remove the front wheels it will make access to the nuts very difficult.I did go for a ‘spirited’ drive and was very surprised by the improvement in front end grip!
Good afternoon to you,
a very nice i20N carbon gear knob
www.wstcarbon.de
A warm greeting, ciao
a very nice i20N carbon gear knob
Austausch Schaltknauf i20N / i30N
Wir bieten euch hier den Schaltknauf für i30N und i20N Modelle veredelt mit echt Carbon. Die Basis bilden hier original Schaltknäufe die aufwändig mit echt Carbon veredelt werden. Somit ist ein einfacher Einbau gewährleistet. Beim Finish haben Sie die Auswahl zwischen einem Roten oder Blauen...
www.wstcarbon.de
A warm greeting, ciao
Good afternoon to you,
a very nice i20N carbon gear knob
Austausch Schaltknauf i20N / i30N
Wir bieten euch hier den Schaltknauf für i30N und i20N Modelle veredelt mit echt Carbon. Die Basis bilden hier original Schaltknäufe die aufwändig mit echt Carbon veredelt werden. Somit ist ein einfacher Einbau gewährleistet. Beim Finish haben Sie die Auswahl zwischen einem Roten oder Blauen...
A warm greeting, ciao
That‘s a good find - I’ve never seen that one before!
An update today on the courtesy lights I fitted to my front doors. So, a few months ago I fitted some small courtesy lights that fit inside the door and are wired to the doors mood lighting. Now the problem with this is that the doors mood lights come on when the headlights are on. In the day the door lights come on when the door is opened and then turn off after a short time. But when the headlights are on the door lights are on all the time. The problem with this is that the N logo is a small piece of plastic film that a bright LED (COB) shines through. If left on it now seems this LED creates enough heat to gradually damage the logo and that is what has happened. The easy solution, and what we did today, is to simply remove the damaged logos. The courtesy lights still work but they no longer project the N logo onto the floor; instead they just project a bright white puddle of light.
Whilst we had the door cards off we also added a bunch more sound proofing and some foam between the uprated speakers and the door card.
Whilst we had the door cards off we also added a bunch more sound proofing and some foam between the uprated speakers and the door card.
Hi @YNWaN. One thing that helps a lot on soundproofing and sound direction are the speaker rings. They made a real positive difference.
About the logo, keep just the light because, at one year or less the logo is burned and when you have to change the logo you have to remove the door card!! I think doesn’t worth it and the purpose is satisfied, help at night and dark situations. I had the same experience in my last car and my option is like you said, just the light!
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We obviously think the same because I did also fit the foam speaker ring you describe (I forgot to say so).
I see you have Morel drivers - very good quality! I’m using Hertz Mille Pro.
I’m a bit uncertain, in fact I’m definitely in two minds, as to whether I should fit a larger intercooler or not. The reason I am so divided is because of the possibility of increased turbo lag caused by the extra volume of air in the system. People’s thoughts would be appreciated.
IMO a large or better intercooler make sense if you tune the ECU and change the % of air volume that system need.
It’s the same example between water hose with 1 bar of pressure but the hole that receive that water just can accommodate 0.5 bar. You have to open the hole (tune ECU).
Hertz Pro Mile is top rating.We obviously think the same because I did also fit the foam speaker ring you describe (I forgot to say so).
I see you have Morel drivers - very good quality! I’m using Hertz Mille Pro.
I’ve fitted the Rpm performance intercooler and yes,unless you have a piggyback (or now remap the car)the low rpm torque is gone.Under 3000 rpm the car is really dead but,you keep the temps very low if you push the beast.In slow traffic the temps goes up anyway.To reduce the lag i’ve also installed de cat downpipe+flexi pipe and forge inlet.With piggyback turned on and the other mods the cars push really hard trought all the rev and also consume less fuel if you go like a normal human
Well that’s super interesting. I have a full 3” exhaust with GPF delete, flexi pipe and sports CAT. I also have TGI inlet and DTUK tuning and pedal boxes - so do you think that will counter the lack of low end torque? At present I have loads of low end torque!I’ve fitted the Rpm performance intercooler and yes,unless you have a piggyback (or now remap the car)the low rpm torque is gone.Under 3000 rpm the car is really dead but,you keep the temps very low if you push the beast.In slow traffic the temps goes up anyway.To reduce the lag i’ve also installed de cat downpipe+flexi pipe and forge inlet.With piggyback turned on and the other mods the cars push really hard trought all the rev and also consume less fuel if you go like a normal human
From exhaust with sport cat to completely free there isn’t much difference in hp,torque and sound but only trouble
so my advice is,keep the exhaust like this because after you also need a spacer with fake cat,unless you remap because the eml come out pretty frequently.In fact soon i will mount a 200 cel sport cat because,on cold day smell like shit and the men in black and red here in Italy isn’t very happy