I think it’s made quite a big difference. The car is less easily unsettled at speed on uneven road surfaces.
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My i20N
- Thread starter YNWaN
- Start date
Really? As this brace doesn't support nor strengthen the top ends of the suspension mounting spots of the axle, I would guess nothing will happen.
A little bit of extra chassis stiffness were some centimeters apart that spots are welded to the platform is also hard to believe. Maybe I am wrong, as I always thought the BC3 chassis is already a stiff and strengthen one.
A little bit of extra chassis stiffness were some centimeters apart that spots are welded to the platform is also hard to believe. Maybe I am wrong, as I always thought the BC3 chassis is already a stiff and strengthen one.
Okay last question once again like Columbo
Both of you did figured this out after you already installed the front brace? I would never discuss about a front brace.
If so I need the rear brace also☺
Both of you did figured this out after you already installed the front brace? I would never discuss about a front brace.
If so I need the rear brace also☺
Yes after the front one. The front suspension struts are really close to the engine firewall while at the rear there is no transversal panel so wouldn’t be surprised if the rear one is more effective on torsional rigidity
Okay last question once again like Columbo
Both of you did figured this out after you already installed the front brace? I would never discuss about a front brace.
If so I need the rear brace also☺
Yes, I already had the matching front brace fitted.
Regarding the rear strut brace...
The plastic boot linings that need the hole cut in them, how difficult were they to remove? Looking at where the strut brace sits once fitted, does it interfere with use of the cargo tie down hooks/net?
Thanks.
The plastic boot linings that need the hole cut in them, how difficult were they to remove? Looking at where the strut brace sits once fitted, does it interfere with use of the cargo tie down hooks/net?
Thanks.
The side trim panels to the boot are reasonably easy to remove but it’s a bit of a process. Although it may be possible to remove them without removing the seat backs it’s certainly a lot easier if you do. The seats are held down by a centre bolt you can access from the boot and the sides clip in. If a friend can help you lift them it makes life easier. You don’t have to move the seat bases at all and the backs just have to be moved away from the side trim, not completely removed. The entire side of the boot and all the way down to the rear door kick plate is one piece. Remove the screws that hold it to the boot floor and everything else is on pull clips. You may also find it’s a good idea to remove the small plastic trim strip just inside the lip of the boot as this overlaps the side pieces.
When fitted the brace doesn't interfere with the cargo net as it sits a few inches above it. I’ll take a picture of it for you - give me ten minutes.
When fitted the brace doesn't interfere with the cargo net as it sits a few inches above it. I’ll take a picture of it for you - give me ten minutes.
Hi @YNWaN
Do you install both on same time, front and back?
I ask because i want to know if you feel more difference on driving about the front one or the rear one?
Our car already have a rear torsion bar, and so another strut brace brace on rear make a huge difference?
And in comfort? Is to much stiffer ?
Do you install both on same time, front and back?
I ask because i want to know if you feel more difference on driving about the front one or the rear one?
Our car already have a rear torsion bar, and so another strut brace brace on rear make a huge difference?
And in comfort? Is to much stiffer ?
No, I didn’t fit both at the same time. In fact I fitted the front one months before I fitted the rear one. Neither of these braces make a ‘huge’ difference but it seemed to me that the rear one made more difference (but then I already had the front one fitted). I’m not very sensitive to comfort issues as I’ve never owned a motorway cruiser type car and some of my previous cars have had a more ‘crashy‘ suspension than the i20N. Overall the suspension feels more stable and the car is less easily unsettled on bumpy surfaces at speed.
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In the pictures below you can see a couple of my more recent mods. The main one is to the steering wheel button surrounds. You can order them from AliExpress and I got mine in a printed carbon fibre design. But I wasn’t all that impressed by the print and so I have recovered them in a 6D carbon fibre effect vinyl. The second mod is to the steering wheel H logo. I did have a logo cover from AliExpress but that made the logo a lot thicker. I’ve now replaced it with a sticker that goes over it and I prefer the thinner, more OEM, look.
Ok, that’s what I thought.
In fact, the braces can be an advantage but in hard attack or in track.
Do you consider in future coilovers (KW or bc racing)?… I think this mod can be the one that made a really good difference.
If I do add coilovers they will most likely be the KW ones (they actually do two versions). I’m not interested in lowering my car though and would choose the smallest amount of lowering at 10mm. In general I think heavily lowered cars look like they have broken suspension and in terms of practicality mine is already low enough.
A friend has recently fitted KW coilovers to his i20N so I’ll see what he thinks to them.
As hinted at in a post above, I’ve also changed my gearknob to a carbon fibre one. Now this isn’t quite as simple as you might think as the i20N does not use a screw on knob but instead it sort of clip/push fits onto a square shaft. As a result a lot (almost all) aftermarket knobs are not suitable. There also has to be room to allow the reverse lockout sleeve to move. After one false start I found this one from AliExpress:
www.aliexpress.com
I did do a small modification in that I cut down the nozzle of a silicone cartridge to make a shouldered sleeve so that the internal spring for the reverse lockout was held down. The other option is just to stretch the spring so it’s a bit longer.
If you want to remove the gearknob, a good trick is to first put the car into the gear nearest to you - so in a right hand drive car that’s 6th gear. Cup both hands around the gear knob only (not the reverse lock out) and pull sharply toward you. Having the gearstick pointing toward you a bit makes this much easier.
Universal Carbon Fiber Gear Shift Knob Manual Transmission Gear Stick Head Shifter Lever Handle With Limiter Adapter SFN135 - AliExpress 34
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
I did do a small modification in that I cut down the nozzle of a silicone cartridge to make a shouldered sleeve so that the internal spring for the reverse lockout was held down. The other option is just to stretch the spring so it’s a bit longer.
If you want to remove the gearknob, a good trick is to first put the car into the gear nearest to you - so in a right hand drive car that’s 6th gear. Cup both hands around the gear knob only (not the reverse lock out) and pull sharply toward you. Having the gearstick pointing toward you a bit makes this much easier.
Yap, a small lowering is what this car needs. But if we can achieve this lowering point with some confort and better driving than the standard suspension is the best of both worlds.
KW is a great company with a really good feedback.
I updated mine too, but from brand billetworkz. Their mechanism is fully compatible with our car and match with the blue interior.As hinted at in a post above, I’ve also changed my gearknob to a carbon fibre one. Now this isn’t quite as simple as you might think as the i20N does not use a screw on knob but instead it sort of clip/push fits onto a square shaft. As a result a lot (almost all) aftermarket knobs are not suitable. There also has to be room to allow the reverse lockout sleeve to move. After one false start I found this one from AliExpress:
Universal Carbon Fiber Gear Shift Knob Manual Transmission Gear Stick Head Shifter Lever Handle With Limiter Adapter SFN135 - AliExpress 34
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
I did do a small modification in that I cut down the nozzle of a silicone cartridge to make a shouldered sleeve so that the internal spring for the reverse lockout was held down. The other option is just to stretch the spring so it’s a bit longer.
If you want to remove the gearknob, a good trick is to first put the car into the gear nearest to you - so in a right hand drive car that’s 6th gear. Cup both hands around the gear knob only (not the reverse lock out) and pull sharply toward you. Having the gearstick pointing toward you a bit makes this much easier.
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They have various models of shifter. I prefer the lengthned one because on my last car I was accostumed to this model and it’s very comfortable. You don’t have to put your arm in much stress to change gears and it’s very quickly to change them. But, it’s just personal preference. I like yours too.