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Wheels Lightweight/Track Summer Wheels & Tires

I have these really nice gunmetal TSW Bathrust wheels laying around. They come off my previous car which was a CX-5.

Size is 20 x 8.5 ET 40 and are rotary forged.

I can't mount them because the tire fitted is just too wide and high and I don't want to invest in new tires just to find out that they won't fit.
So my question would be : Can this config work with 235/30/20 tires? Or is the ET too much?

Thanks,

Christophe.
Belgium.

bathurstglossgunmetal.jpg
 
I have these really nice gunmetal TSW Bathrust wheels laying around. They come off my previous car which was a CX-5.

Size is 20 x 8.5 ET 40 and are rotary forged.

I can't mount them because the tire fitted is just too wide and high and I don't want to invest in new tires just to find out that they won't fit.
So my question would be : Can this config work with 235/30/20 tires? Or is the ET too much?

Thanks,

Christophe.
Belgium.

View attachment 21527
That´s gonna be very close. You might get away with it on a pre Fl, but on a Fl they will rub.
 
Excuse my ignorance but, is it possible that the tire pressure recommended by Hyundai is around 2.8 bar? I was used to around 2.2 bar with cars of around 200hp.
 
Seeking recommendation for everyday quality wheels and tires (must be available on EU market) for poor roads. My main goal is increasing comfort for daily commutes, I hardly ever have the time to go to track. I have been driving my i30N fastback (FL) with stock wheels and P zero tires which are not made for CRO roads :-(
 
The recommendation for wheel and tire size for poor roads and track use is nearly the same. Light weight 18” rims (reduce unsprung mass) and 235/40 tires (more air volume - more damping). Pressure for cold tires and poor roads 2,3 bar front and 2,1 bar rear.
Here a few affordable rims in Europe:
Motec MCR2 Ultralight, Sparco Assetto Gara, Autec Wizard, Enkei Wakasa.
I highly recommend the Motecs! Best value for the price as they are flow formed.

You will feel the gain in comfort from the first km compared to the (too) heavy stock wheels with the bumpy 235/35 R19 tires which can only be recommended for the ice cream parlor. 😉
You can already be happy to own a FL Model where the stock rim lost 3,5kg compared to the PFL one. That's already a lot but 18" are the game changer.
 
The recommendation for wheel and tire size for poor roads and track use is nearly the same. Light weight 18” rims (reduce unsprung mass) and 235/40 tires (more air volume - more damping). Pressure for cold tires and poor roads 2,3 bar front and 2,1 bar rear.
Here a few affordable rims in Europe:
Motec MCR2 Ultralight, Sparco Assetto Gara, Autec Wizard, Enkei Wakasa.
I highly recommend the Motecs! Best value for the price as they are flow formed.

You will feel the gain in comfort from the first km compared to the (too) heavy stock wheels with the bumpy 235/35 R19 tires which can only be recommended for the ice cream parlor. 😉
You can already be happy to own a FL Model where the stock rim lost 3,5kg compared to the PFL one. That's already a lot but 18" are the game changer.
Thank you very much for your advice.
Should I get Motec MCR2 Ultralight 18×8 or Motec MCR2 Ultralight 18×7,5?
Only 225/40 ZR18 7.5J x 18" and 235/35 R19 sizes are listed in manual. Can I put 235/40 tires on motec 18x7,5?
MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 5 95Y XL should be fine?
 
I'm running 235/40 on the 8x18 ET50 Motec, additonal approved bei TüV. Fitment is perfect.
https://www.motec-wheels.de/images/..._MCR2-8018-5F-50-5-114_3-67_1_r3_00412801.pdf

I can't see a 7,5x18 with 5/114 PCD on the Motec HP. Just the 8x18 for our Ns.
And yes, Michelin PS5 are always fine! I had new Conti SC7 fitted last weekend.
Do these Motecs fit out-of-the-box or do I need rings or something?
TPMS works? Use original lug nuts?
Is this correct: Motec MCR2 Ultralight 18×8 5x114.3 ET 50 72.6 central hole? Don't wanna order wrong size 😅
 
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Do these Motecs fit out-of-the-box or do I need rings or something?
TPMS works? Use original lug nuts?
Is this correct: Motec MCR2 Ultralight 18×8 5x114.3 ET 50 72.6 central hole? Don't wanna order wrong size 😅
you will need rings inside wheel as bore is bigger than oem.

btw. Here are my Motec with Nankang NS-2R (19.9kg -> tyre + rim) and Yokohama A052 (19kg -> tyre + rim), both tyres are 235/40R18, yoko looks like 8" wheel is too small :D
 

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you will need rings inside wheel as bore is bigger than oem.

btw. Here are my Motec with Nankang NS-2R (19.9kg -> tyre + rim) and Yokohama A052 (19kg -> tyre + rim), both tyres are 235/40R18, yoko looks like 8" wheel is too small :D
Have you tried Yokohama A052 on track?
 
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I'd say its on the edge, but should be fine. IIRC Yokohama says 8" for 235 is the narrowest you should go.
I run mine on a 9", just to be safe.


I have them, too. what do you want to know?
I want to know if they are a good option for the track, as I have read good reviews. But not on i30N.
They are not a cheap option, so at least they are worth their money.
And what about the feedback they give.
Are there better options in the (almost) same price that you ve tried?
I have tried only Zestino and Falken Azenis RS820 (which isn't a track tyre), but I would like to try something better this time.
 
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I want to know if they are a good option for the truck, as I have read good reviews. But not on i30N.
They are not a cheap option, so at least they are worth their money.
And what about the feedback they give.
Are there better options in the (almost) same price that you ve tried?
I have tried only Zestino and Falken Azenis RS820 (which isn't a truck tyre), but I would like to try something better this time.
To give you some context, the following tires I have driven on track so far:
- Factory PZero HN
- Conti SC7
- Zestino Gredge R
- Zestino Gredge RS
- Nankang AR-1
- Yokohama A052

Gonna focus on the AR1 and the A052, because the Zestino Gredge is no longer produced and the PZero and the SC7 are not Semi-Slicks.

The AR1 is the blunt baseball bat, it tolerates lots of things but does not communicate well in my opinion. Not sure fast out of the box, but if you hit the temperature window it works very well.

The A052 has waaay more grip than the AR1, its even easier get to temps and to keep it in the temperature range as well. However its longevity is a good bit shorter than the AR1. You have to learn to drive super cleanly to not shred the thread of the A052. Even then you have to watch out for overheating and too much forceful driving, as that damages the tire.

Price/Performance is hard to say, a few months back the AR1 was rising in price, I, for example got the A052s cheaper than AR1s were, now the price for the A052 spiked... so hard to say.

TLDR:
- AR1 has not as much grip, but tolerates more aggressive driving
- A052 is superior (especially in the wet!) to the AR1 in terms of grip, but you have to be way more careful driving it.
 
Thank you for the info @Bu11eT.
So I understand that A052 is your choice and this is more or less relative to what I have read.
This tyre will be my next track tyre too.
 
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I'm running 235/40 on the 8x18 ET50 Motec, additonal approved bei TüV. Fitment is perfect.
https://www.motec-wheels.de/images/..._MCR2-8018-5F-50-5-114_3-67_1_r3_00412801.pdf

I can't see a 7,5x18 with 5/114 PCD on the Motec HP. Just the 8x18 for our Ns.
And yes, Michelin PS5 are always fine! I had new Conti SC7 fitted last weekend.
Looking at the certificate does this mean that those rims can be used with M+S (and winter?) tires? Kinda weird. Am I missing something?
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