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To be honest, a light rim with 235/45 or 245/40 R17 won‘t be the worst option for track use or for winter. I think there are plenty of wheels which can clear the 245mm brake. You won‘t win a show and shine contest but technically spoken....not bad. 
Kick: Veloster N 8x17 235/45
Kick: Veloster N 8x17 235/45
Caliper to inside wheel is to close and well below the recommended 3-4 mm clearance. This recommended clearance takes in consideration, wheel flex, heat expansion and debris that can get logged between the wheel and caliper.
Like I said, it not something to consider or do, as it's not a recommended alternate size for the Veloster N by any wheel manufacturer or distributor and for good reason. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it's correct or safe.
Like I said, it not something to consider or do, as it's not a recommended alternate size for the Veloster N by any wheel manufacturer or distributor and for good reason. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it's correct or safe.
Depends on the wheel of course!! If there are 3mm space left than it's ok. Even für german TüV!!
Thank you for sharing this very interesting information!
I went for exactly the same wheel-tyre combination like you have but in the colour 'Light Grey'.
I didn´t find any precise information about the DT1 specification of the Pilot Sport 4S.
Looks like we made a bad deal compared to the normal 4S version; the DT1 tread is less wide and less deep.
Do you perhaps know something about the rubber compound? There has to be a good reason for the production of the 'DT1' specification.
I can´t wait to test the car on excellent 18" Michelin tyres in daily driving conditions and on the Nordschleife.
No, haven‘t any information about compounds. But the different „size“ of the DT1s are the reason why this spec has to be mounted axle-wise and not to mix with the normal ones.
They are working great in Hockenheim, I’m convinced they will also do proper on the Nordschleife! Don‘t start them cold below 2,1bar, the sidewalls are not the stiffest. Warm them slowly, don’t overload them till about Adenauer Forst. Warm pressure of 2,5-2,6bar should be perfect.
They are working great in Hockenheim, I’m convinced they will also do proper on the Nordschleife! Don‘t start them cold below 2,1bar, the sidewalls are not the stiffest. Warm them slowly, don’t overload them till about Adenauer Forst. Warm pressure of 2,5-2,6bar should be perfect.
Be careful with caliper clearance. because they have a sliding caliper when you renew brake pads the caliper will slide out slightly further and could cause a problem.
Hi all,
I'm about to buy a set of Bronze BBS CI'R's. Size 19x8,5 ET43. Will they rub with the OEM Pirelli P Zero's (235/35/19)?
They look so good on the car (atleast on the configurators).
Thanks in advance
I'm about to buy a set of Bronze BBS CI'R's. Size 19x8,5 ET43. Will they rub with the OEM Pirelli P Zero's (235/35/19)?
They look so good on the car (atleast on the configurators).
Thanks in advance
Look here and ask the same question for your answer;
n-cars.net
Wheels - Lightweight/Track Summer Wheels & Tires
Hello everybody! I have been thinking about starting a thread about lightweight rims. When i purchased mine i asked for several types of Oz rims, I list them here for a start: OZ Alleggerita HLT Titanium Tech 7,5X18 5x114,3 ET48 7,75 kg...
n-cars.net
Hi guys, finally I got the ultralight rims - Rays Volk Racing CE28NF)! As far as i could find information, these JDM rims were manufacturing in early 2000s. My set has a perfect geometry and a little cosmetic damage outside surface on a pair of rims. So, overall it is very well condition for approximately 15 years old rims. Especially, I am happy that the rims have 50mm offset and I absolutely sure it is much better than the most popular 45mm offset. And last one, I know guys, you are all have money for rich and shiny OZ rims or ultralight magnum rims, but I paid for this set 520 Euro (130 Euro per rim). Also, I'm a little surprised, there is almost no mention of these rims before..
Those are some Legendary wheels from back in the F&F age! Every wheel made of Japanesium is a good wheel, asspecially if it is a forged one like the CE28. They did cost an arm and 3 extra fingers back in the day so finding a good set now can be a real bargain.Hi guys, finally I got the ultralight rims - Rays Volk Racing CE28NF)! As far as i could find information, these JDM rims were manufacturing in early 2000s. My set has a perfect geometry and a little cosmetic damage outside surface on a pair of rims. So, overall it is very well condition for approximately 15 years old rims. Especially, I am happy that the rims have 50mm offset and I absolutely sure it is much better than the most popular 45mm offset. And last one, I know guys, you are all have money for rich and shiny OZ rims or ultralight magnum rims, but I paid for this set 520 Euro (130 Euro per rim). Also, I'm a little surprised, there is almost no mention of these rims before..
There are a ton of forged japanese wheels out there, but they are more popular in the JDM scene, hence the
ignorance on this forum. We are lucky with the asian bolt pattern of 5x114.3 which unlocks a ton of JDM wheels
Front inner clearance to shock on a nankang AR1 255/35/18XL tyre on a 18x8.5+55
I made a question regarding the DT1 spec in the Pirelli P Zero thread and was speculating that it may have improved rim protection compared to the old variant. Especially the DT1 FSL (which might be the same as just "DT1). Any thoughts on this?Thank you for sharing this very interesting information!
I went for exactly the same wheel-tyre combination like you have but in the colour 'Light Grey'.
I didn´t find any precise information about the DT1 specification of the Pilot Sport 4S.
Looks like we made a bad deal compared to the normal 4S version; the DT1 tread is less wide and less deep.
Do you perhaps know something about the rubber compound? There has to be a good reason for the production of the 'DT1' specification.
I can´t wait to test the car on excellent 18" Michelin tyres in daily driving conditions and on the Nordschleife.
I also noticed that it has different EU fuel efficiency rating. The regular version has rating of "C" versus DT1 which has rating of "D". So worse fuel rating which could hint at slightly more sticky compound which has more grip but also higher rolling resistance? Or it could be just the new 2021 EU labeling standard which gives it a different score.
Although I can't find any word about that changing the scoring. 