Nope. The sesitivity of a speaker is what makes it "louder" you can have 89 dB/V speaker that is significantly "quieter" than 91 dB one. Speaker's wattage is a measure of power handling - i.e. the amount of power dissipated by speaker before it's damaged. More wattage = more headroom (harder to cause distortion). Power rating has nothing to do with being quieter or louder under same given circumstances.That's a bit weird.. The alpines should not be as loud as the stock speakers, as they are 60 watts RMS and require more power to be driven, comparing to somewhere around 20-40 that the stock ones are..
Are you able to share the exact speakers you used. Going to have to change mine as the standard ones are just horrendous.Thanks to all for making this DIY guide so simple. Over the weekend, I changed front and rear door speakers with Hertz components (front) and Alpine S class coaxial (rears), using a dremel to modify the speaker baskets, and soldering the wires to retain the factory wiring plugs.
It was worth the fiddling, as the results look neat and tidy, and the improvement to both the detail and performance of the speakers is simply HUGE. Its so good, i doubt i will need to consider an inline amp or under-seat sub.
In the next month I will have a go for the front tweeters, if i can remove the grilles and try to fit the Hertz items, without causing any damage.
Front doors I fitted hertz dsk 160.3, crazy price at AUD120, and rears are Alpine SPC-170 C-Series, full price at AUD119. Both were around 56mm depth. So as long as the mounting depth isnt beyond 56mm, you should be ok.Are you able to share the exact speakers you used. Going to have to change mine as the standard ones are just horrendous.