Oh, yeah, let's blame the poor car…That means no more excuses on the next track day for poor lap times due to your "lack of power", I suppose?
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i30 N Bu11eT's Melody
- Thread starter Bu11eT
- Start date
Now it's the tires fault of course! I always have a driver excuse readyThat means no more excuses on the next track day for poor lap times due to your "lack of power", I suppose?
Post a link to the harness please!Short update before this year's last trackday on Monday at the Bilster Berg. Did the installation a few weeks back already, just forgot to post it
Got my Takata Harness for the Driver's side installed.
Will definitely upgrade the seats now. Just now sure which ones yet. Need to do a bit of testing to see if I fit in the Recaro PP. The harness is great, when you drive with it on it's like driving another car that has 50hp moreEverything is super direct and no longer sliding out of the seat in sharp corners - love it.
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Another not so pleasant experience with the Brembo OEM brake replacements. The discs are too small. Instead of 345 I got 330 discs... No comment here. No idea whether that's just Brembo not knowing how to measure stuff or... The site I bought them from even lists them as 330 discs. No comment. Never again.
This is how the Brembo pads looked like after 1 Trackday and roughly 10k kms. Over half gone already. The lip is there because of the wrong disc sizing...
This time I went with the NEXD pads, and I can already feel a big difference on the road. No squeaking and waaaay better braking power already, especially in the wet. Am super curious how they'll perform on-track.
Will switch to DBA discs and a new set of NEXD pads over the winter, since the Brembo disc is too small, my current pads will be unusable on another disc...
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Also made a date with my buddy Markus from MTTuning for Mid-October for my Stage 3. The TTE466 is already with a guy who does proper integral insulation for the turbine-housing and the manifold. Should drop the engine bay temps by quite a bit, I hope. The holes for the EGT-Sensors are already in as well, have to do a bit of playing around with the CanChecked so it can display the sensor data.
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Started work on my Gen2-Oversized-And-Unnecessary-But-Totally-Cool-Airbox.
The new version features enhanced airguides to protect the airfilter from collecting too much dirt.
Also started work on an OEM+ Airbox that re-uses the OEM airbox-lid. It just has space for a bigger filter and the filter is not wedged it but connected directly to the airpipe. So, no dust/dirt can get in.
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As you can see, I'm quite busy
Those combined with the schroth racing 3" seat belt padsiPhail@google.comCLICK
A small interim update on christmas eve:
The mandatory stuff first: Wish you all a nice christmas and some relaxing holidays!
The stuff regarding my thread:
Todo-List
This one is quite long right now, got the following stuff on order or it already clutters my garage
- 2x Recaro Pole Position
- 2x AnimalRacing seat consoles
- 1x Takata Harness (since I already got one)
- 2x Airbag-Override-Plug-Thingy
- DBA 4000 Series Clubsport T3 Discs (Front)
- DBA Extreme Performance Pads (Front)
- NexdRacing Pads (Rear)
All that stuff is supposed to go in before the start of the trackday season next year!
Stuff I am currently working on:
OEM+ Airbox
This one is nearly done, I am currently looking for guys in Germany (because of the high speeds on the Autobahn) that run a snorkel (Velossa or similar) to test it out. It will obv. be quite a bit cheaper than the final product, so there's something in it for the tester too.
Goal of the airbox were a few things:
- Get rid of the clip in mechanism of the OEM airfilter (that one does NOT work on all Ns, there a few cars that have too large tolerances to house a normal filter snugly)
- Make sure no air directly hits the airfilter. There are some airguides in place to make sure this works as intended. The reason I did it this way was because I already know some guys who have had their turbos sandblasted because of the poor filter capabilites of an unoiled (e.g. pipercross) filter when running a snorkel at Autobahn speeds. The air hitting the filter at such high speeds is just not a good idea.
- Get rid of these two ugly clips that hold the airguide to the car in the front.
- Make sure it looks OEM (for the friendly neighborhood cops ) by reusing the OEM lid and seal.
Here's the insta post about it with some pics:
www.instagram.com
Brake cooling v2
Since the SpeedEngineering brake cooling solution I posted about a while back did absolutely not work (I snapped both hoses on the first trackday), I wanted to design something on my own. Currently printing the first prototype as we speak, will mount it and drive with it for the rest of the winter to make sure it can withstand the elements under the car^^.
The mandatory stuff first: Wish you all a nice christmas and some relaxing holidays!
The stuff regarding my thread:
Todo-List
This one is quite long right now, got the following stuff on order or it already clutters my garage
- 2x Recaro Pole Position
- 2x AnimalRacing seat consoles
- 1x Takata Harness (since I already got one)
- 2x Airbag-Override-Plug-Thingy
- DBA 4000 Series Clubsport T3 Discs (Front)
- DBA Extreme Performance Pads (Front)
- NexdRacing Pads (Rear)
All that stuff is supposed to go in before the start of the trackday season next year!
Stuff I am currently working on:
OEM+ Airbox
This one is nearly done, I am currently looking for guys in Germany (because of the high speeds on the Autobahn) that run a snorkel (Velossa or similar) to test it out. It will obv. be quite a bit cheaper than the final product, so there's something in it for the tester too.
Goal of the airbox were a few things:
- Get rid of the clip in mechanism of the OEM airfilter (that one does NOT work on all Ns, there a few cars that have too large tolerances to house a normal filter snugly)
- Make sure no air directly hits the airfilter. There are some airguides in place to make sure this works as intended. The reason I did it this way was because I already know some guys who have had their turbos sandblasted because of the poor filter capabilites of an unoiled (e.g. pipercross) filter when running a snorkel at Autobahn speeds. The air hitting the filter at such high speeds is just not a good idea.
- Get rid of these two ugly clips that hold the airguide to the car in the front.
- Make sure it looks OEM (for the friendly neighborhood cops
) by reusing the OEM lid and seal.Here's the insta post about it with some pics:
Felix B. on Instagram: "❗❗❗Tester gesucht❗❗❗ Für meine OEM+ Airbox. Gerne Teilen! Ich suche jemanden, der noch die OEM Airbox und dazu einen Schnorchel (Velossa o.ä.) fährt oder wieder fahren möchte. Das Auto sollte auch im Winter und noch besser be
108 likes, 17 comments - f_blixDecember 24, 2022 on : "❗❗❗Tester gesucht❗❗❗ Für meine OEM+ Airbox. Gerne Teilen! Ich suche jemanden, der noch die OEM Airbox und dazu einen Schnor...".
www.instagram.com
Brake cooling v2
Since the SpeedEngineering brake cooling solution I posted about a while back did absolutely not work (I snapped both hoses on the first trackday), I wanted to design something on my own. Currently printing the first prototype as we speak, will mount it and drive with it for the rest of the winter to make sure it can withstand the elements under the car^^.
Last edited:
Outer shell of the airbox is done, need to create an adapter for my secondary air intake and then that chapter can be considered completed. Here are some pics of the fitted prototype with the OEM lid on:
I also started work on the brakecooling setup, will utilize a short hose to connect to the SpeedEngineering brake dust cover. Otherwise this one will get mounted underneath the driver side wishbone with some fat zipties to see whether it will survive my daily driving LOL^^
Excited to see how all of this newly created stuff will hold up in the upcoming trackday season
I also started work on the brakecooling setup, will utilize a short hose to connect to the SpeedEngineering brake dust cover. Otherwise this one will get mounted underneath the driver side wishbone with some fat zipties to see whether it will survive my daily driving LOL^^
Excited to see how all of this newly created stuff will hold up in the upcoming trackday season
of course I had to run down to the car to check if that prototype from the previous post would fit.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it fits like a glove
Still enough ground clearance (~9,5cm / 8cm are required by law here in Germany)
Here you can see the adapter pipe behind the wishbone to which the hose will get mounted.
and this small gap from the lower left to the upper right has to be filled in by the hose
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it fits like a glove
Still enough ground clearance (~9,5cm / 8cm are required by law here in Germany)
Here you can see the adapter pipe behind the wishbone to which the hose will get mounted.
and this small gap from the lower left to the upper right has to be filled in by the hose
Have you this part too? 
hg-motorsport.de
HF Upgrade Druckschlauch > Drosselklappe Hyundai i30N
Dieser Druckschlauch ist ein absolutes Must-Have für jeden Hyundai i30N. Der Schlauch wurde mit unserer High-Flow No-Edge Technologie entwickelt, welche einen glatten und perfekten Übergang direkt vom Druckschlauch...
hg-motorsport.de
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of course I had to run down to the car to check if that prototype from the previous post would fit.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaand it fits like a glove
Still enough ground clearance (~9,5cm / 8cm are required by law here in Germany)
Here you can see the adapter pipe behind the wishbone to which the hose will get mounted.
and this small gap from the lower left to the upper right has to be filled in by the hose
But it also transport water an dirt.
naah, dont think thats necessary. I have the forge boost pipe which should be enough already. Also def not a fan of HG Motorsport. Super unfriendly contact I had with them.Have you this part too?
HF Upgrade Druckschlauch > Drosselklappe Hyundai i30N
Dieser Druckschlauch ist ein absolutes Must-Have für jeden Hyundai i30N. Der Schlauch wurde mit unserer High-Flow No-Edge Technologie entwickelt, welche einen glatten und perfekten Übergang direkt vom Druckschlauch...
true, but there is just no other solution to proper brake cooling.
The Hose fits perfect, and the flow should be better.
What do you think about a Big bore Throttle Body?
2018+ i30N 2.0 Turbo Big Bore Throttle Body
Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.
sharkracing.com
Regarding the hose: Lots of marketing, you will not feel a difference. Maybe worth trying it out if its only 40 bucks?The Hose fits perfect, and the flow should be better. View attachment 21804
What do you think about a Big bore Throttle Body?
2018+ i30N 2.0 Turbo Big Bore Throttle Body
Established in 1999, Shark Racing is the No. 1 source of parts and accessories for Korean cars.
Regarding the throttle body: i'd say without a proper tune or upgraded charge/boost piping not worth it. But I dont have any experience with an enlargened throttle body. IIRC @R Veloster N has one installed.
@Bu11eT thank you.
With the enlarge Boost Pipe, you’ll only see the difference on the dynamometer and greater flow characteristics. With a bored TB, you notice an improvement with ot without a tune. Primarily in throttle response initially and boost recovery during shifting.
There will be a loss in fuel economy every time you mash the throttle though. You’re providing a greater increase in a/f charge into the manifold. So there will be a larger volume for each cylinder to compress.
If you’re just tooling along normally, there will be an actual increase in economy due to less throttle application needed. So there are pluses and minuses.
With the enlarge Boost Pipe, you’ll only see the difference on the dynamometer and greater flow characteristics. With a bored TB, you notice an improvement with ot without a tune. Primarily in throttle response initially and boost recovery during shifting.
There will be a loss in fuel economy every time you mash the throttle though. You’re providing a greater increase in a/f charge into the manifold. So there will be a larger volume for each cylinder to compress.
If you’re just tooling along normally, there will be an actual increase in economy due to less throttle application needed. So there are pluses and minuses.
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First seat is installed, just wasnt able to fit the second one yet since my belt is not yet there and the seat-console was missing 2 screws.
Looks like this right now:
However this does not seem to work just out of the box.
Have to revisit the seat buckle mechanism for two reasons:
a) the seat buckle (the red piece) sticks out way too far and presses against the thigh which is kinda uncomfortable. I already ordered a shorter buckle mechanism for another Hyundai. That one also has the electronics for the buckle-detection so hopefully its just a swap-over.
b) The screws used to bolt the buckle to the seat-console are too short now because the console is thicker than the OEM one and I am running two buckles, the OEM and the Takata one. Already contacted AnimalRacing and they have an idea on how to solve this issue. Its a bit tricky since you have to use a specialized screw for that in order to get it through German TÜV.
So a bit of work involved with this stuff, but I am confident it'll work out.
Looks like this right now:
However this does not seem to work just out of the box.
Have to revisit the seat buckle mechanism for two reasons:
a) the seat buckle (the red piece) sticks out way too far and presses against the thigh which is kinda uncomfortable. I already ordered a shorter buckle mechanism for another Hyundai. That one also has the electronics for the buckle-detection so hopefully its just a swap-over.
b) The screws used to bolt the buckle to the seat-console are too short now because the console is thicker than the OEM one and I am running two buckles, the OEM and the Takata one. Already contacted AnimalRacing and they have an idea on how to solve this issue. Its a bit tricky since you have to use a specialized screw for that in order to get it through German TÜV.
So a bit of work involved with this stuff, but I am confident it'll work out.
So after quite a while I finally had some spare time to write an update again.
Numerous things have happened obviously:
- Seat update
- Brake cooling update
- Track visit @ Bilster Berg
Seat update:
Both Pole position seats with Takata harnesses are in and fit like a charm. Only thing thats still buggering me is the position of the seat buckle. Told AnimalRacing (the manufacturer of the seat console) that a change would be great and they are already in the process of designing and testing a new adapter which would relocate the seat buckle a bit, just so it wont stick out so far anymore. Thanks to AnimalRacing for taking care of my request!
Brake cooling update:
Decided to go all out and also design my own dust covers. First prototype has already been lasered, looking for some spare time to see whether it fits properly.
Sneak peek:
As you can see I went with an OEM+ design. There are solutions which offer more cooling with less protection, but I decided to go the middle route. The most cooling with most protection.
The shown prototype obv still has to go through some fitment testing, but in terms of cooling it should be way superior to the RS brake ducts since it pushes air into the center of the rotating brake disc which helps most in terms of uniform cooling to prevent warping and cracks. Super excited to see how the dust cover will work out in the end. Also sent one prototype away for fitment testing on a FL i30N.
Besides the obvious cooling benefits, I will also be able to fit a brake temp sensor to the dust cover to monitor the temps in real time through my canchecked display
The other part of the cooling setup, the wishbone-mounted cooling intake has been tested this weekend on the bilster berg at a trackday.
It worked flawlessly. No scrubbing, and it was able to withstand numerous visits to the local kerbs
Brake disc temps (I am able to measure them roughly through the thermographic heat paint of my dba brake discs) stayed between 458C and 550C with my cooling setup.
Happy with it and I can also confirm that this part also fits the i30N FL and the Kona N apart from the i30N PFL.
Now lets hope the dust cover is also such a magical fit
Track visit @ Bilster Berg
Went there with @Felix and two other buddies. Lots of fun, we had dry but cold (~7C-ish) weather during our 4 morning sessions. Had some trouble getting my tires up to temp in these conditions and still had the feeling they were a tad greasy but it was still loads of fun!
Here are the times. I decided to track them for future comparisons.
Last year (without my tune) my best lap time was a 02:07:35 under very good weather conditions.
This year with roughly 70hp more my best lap time was a 02:06:03. Although the conditions weren't as good this time, it shows how little power means on a track like the Bilster Berg.
Another thing I observed: Lap times were very close to each other:
And because of that I decided its now time for a new suspension: Welcome KW V3 Clubsport to the party. Its already on order (got a bargain on a used one) and should hopefully arrive mid of may.
Main reason I decided to go for this change is because the car felt overwhelmed during slow-to-medium speed corners. My buddies also told me my car was rolling quite heavily (anti-roll-kit and ARBs are already installed). It just didn't feel confidence inspiring, even with some changes to the setup with the ECS10 module I wasn't happy with cornering performance. I always thought a bit more camber (~2°) would help the stock setup. But the only way to achieve this legally in Germany is the V3 Clubsport. So I went for it.
Another thing I noticed were the dba pads and discs. Super great braking behavior, although I was super dissatisfied with the long brake pedal. I have to push the pedal in for about 80% before hard braking is felt. Not sure why this happened and it was quite annoying.
- Will get my braking system checked for air bubbles
- Also thought it could have something to do with the stock caliber (a single pot is not a great design^^)
- Or if its just the pads.
Dunno, what do you guys think?
Besides from this unpleasant feeling the braking was 1000000% better than with my old, shitty brembo setup, but also better than with the Nexd performance pads on stock discs.
Speaking of the discs - those were finally able to survive the torture. The OEM or brembo ones died after 2 stints. Could've obv. also have something to do with the additional cooling.
As you guys can see I am still on it with the car and it seems the To-Do list gets longer and longer
Numerous things have happened obviously:
- Seat update
- Brake cooling update
- Track visit @ Bilster Berg
Seat update:
Both Pole position seats with Takata harnesses are in and fit like a charm. Only thing thats still buggering me is the position of the seat buckle. Told AnimalRacing (the manufacturer of the seat console) that a change would be great and they are already in the process of designing and testing a new adapter which would relocate the seat buckle a bit, just so it wont stick out so far anymore. Thanks to AnimalRacing for taking care of my request!
Brake cooling update:
Decided to go all out and also design my own dust covers. First prototype has already been lasered, looking for some spare time to see whether it fits properly.
Sneak peek:
As you can see I went with an OEM+ design. There are solutions which offer more cooling with less protection, but I decided to go the middle route. The most cooling with most protection.
The shown prototype obv still has to go through some fitment testing, but in terms of cooling it should be way superior to the RS brake ducts since it pushes air into the center of the rotating brake disc which helps most in terms of uniform cooling to prevent warping and cracks. Super excited to see how the dust cover will work out in the end. Also sent one prototype away for fitment testing on a FL i30N.
Besides the obvious cooling benefits, I will also be able to fit a brake temp sensor to the dust cover to monitor the temps in real time through my canchecked display
The other part of the cooling setup, the wishbone-mounted cooling intake has been tested this weekend on the bilster berg at a trackday.
It worked flawlessly. No scrubbing, and it was able to withstand numerous visits to the local kerbs
Brake disc temps (I am able to measure them roughly through the thermographic heat paint of my dba brake discs) stayed between 458C and 550C with my cooling setup.
Happy with it and I can also confirm that this part also fits the i30N FL and the Kona N apart from the i30N PFL.
Now lets hope the dust cover is also such a magical fit
Track visit @ Bilster Berg
Went there with @Felix and two other buddies. Lots of fun, we had dry but cold (~7C-ish) weather during our 4 morning sessions. Had some trouble getting my tires up to temp in these conditions and still had the feeling they were a tad greasy but it was still loads of fun!
Here are the times. I decided to track them for future comparisons.
Last year (without my tune) my best lap time was a 02:07:35 under very good weather conditions.
This year with roughly 70hp more my best lap time was a 02:06:03. Although the conditions weren't as good this time, it shows how little power means on a track like the Bilster Berg.
Another thing I observed: Lap times were very close to each other:
And because of that I decided its now time for a new suspension: Welcome KW V3 Clubsport to the party. Its already on order (got a bargain on a used one) and should hopefully arrive mid of may.
Main reason I decided to go for this change is because the car felt overwhelmed during slow-to-medium speed corners. My buddies also told me my car was rolling quite heavily (anti-roll-kit and ARBs are already installed). It just didn't feel confidence inspiring, even with some changes to the setup with the ECS10 module I wasn't happy with cornering performance. I always thought a bit more camber (~2°) would help the stock setup. But the only way to achieve this legally in Germany is the V3 Clubsport. So I went for it.
Another thing I noticed were the dba pads and discs. Super great braking behavior, although I was super dissatisfied with the long brake pedal. I have to push the pedal in for about 80% before hard braking is felt. Not sure why this happened and it was quite annoying.
- Will get my braking system checked for air bubbles
- Also thought it could have something to do with the stock caliber (a single pot is not a great design^^)
- Or if its just the pads.
Dunno, what do you guys think?
Besides from this unpleasant feeling the braking was 1000000% better than with my old, shitty brembo setup, but also better than with the Nexd performance pads on stock discs.
Speaking of the discs - those were finally able to survive the torture. The OEM or brembo ones died after 2 stints
. Could've obv. also have something to do with the additional cooling.As you guys can see I am still on it with the car and it seems the To-Do list gets longer and longer
Time to write an update again, heh?
Here's what happened since last time:
- V3 Clubsport install
- Tire temperature monitoring via CanChecked
- Tire Defect
- Nordschleife visit incl alignment
- Finished my brake cooling
- CanChecked MCE18 install
V3 Clubsport install
A few weeks back I went ahead and installed my used KW V3 Clubsport with custom top mounts.
Got a good price on it and since its the only way to run -2° or more camber in Germany legally, I went ahead and bought it. Those other top mounts are milled out and will allow for even more camber adjustment than with just the kw top mounts. Not that I would need it, but I decided to go for it since I don't want to rip out the dampers to install them later on if needed.
The springs of this V3 Clubsport are also slightly modded since I am running stiffer competition springs in the front so the suspension is able to handle the front-heavy weight balance a bit better. Was not yet able to properly test it, but on daily driving I must say I am suprised by how comfortable it can be despite being way better in the corners than the OEM suspension.
Tire temperature monitoring via CanChecked
Thanks to the help of everyone in this thread and to the Canbus-Guru Hendrik from CanChecked we were able to deduce the correct values for the CanChecked display as well. Super helpful when trying to figure out the operating temperature window of my semislicks when on track! This is what my current page now looks like (and yes I know the description for my EGT monitoring is wrong, was too lazy to fix it):
Tire Defect
After all that it was time for my trip to the Nordschleife together with @Felix and a mate. Upon prepping my car I noticed the following on one of my semis:
^ mandatory crocks-shot in the bottom left
No way to drive with such a damaged tire. So I had to do my trip with my SportContact 7 (not that bad of a choice either) and ordered new semis.
The Gredge 07RS now held up for 2 years and roughly 6 trackdays. So maybe it was time anyway.
This time I went with the harder Gredge 07R. I was told by Zestino those are proper trackday tires and the 07RS is more of a time attack tire. Could confirm this for the 07RS since the tire overheated quite fast on the track. 140TW is quite soft and in the end it can't work its best if the car is as heavy as mine is.
Nordschleife visit incl suspension-setup
Arrived at the Nordschleife and immediately dropped my car off at Boes-Motorsport to get a proper alignment done. Told him which tracks I drive and what tires I run and he did his best. Have to say, his alignment as well as his damper-setup is brilliant. Its even softer than the official KW spec, meaning more comfort in daily use but still plenty of cornering-power.
Super happy with it!
Here are a few pics from our visit:
As you can see in the first pic I was sitting quite low, so I changed my seating-position after the visit. Still plenty low, but not as low as on the pic.
Finished my brake cooling
Finally, after lots of testing and trial and error I was able to finish up my custom brake cooling setup!
Super happy with it. Still need to test by how much it really reduces the temps in the end but in terms of fitment its super nice.
It is designed in such a way, that the hose does not touch any of the components, regardless of the driving condition. It also offers most protection of the brake discs still with plenty of cooling going along. It even comes with holes, so one could be able to add real-time brake temp monitoring later on.
Already have plans for a v2, but for the moment this has to be enough. Had quite a few people contact me if they can purchase a set, and I also have a shop at hand who might sell them for me in the future. Exciting times!
Here are the pics of the final setup:
CanChecked MCE18 install
In order to properly validate my brake cooling setup I have to add additional sensors to my CanChecked. Since I am already running a few sensors I am now in the process of adding the MCE18, an extension unit for the CanChecked. Quickly designed a mount for it and now the only thing left is the wiring. This little box has the advantage that I only have to run three wires (CanH, CanL and 12V) to the interior, the rest of the sensors can be connected in the engine bay. Had a bit of trouble running too many wires through the hood latch grommet into the interior, so I think this is more future proof.
Here's what happened since last time:
- V3 Clubsport install
- Tire temperature monitoring via CanChecked
- Tire Defect
- Nordschleife visit incl alignment
- Finished my brake cooling
- CanChecked MCE18 install
V3 Clubsport install
A few weeks back I went ahead and installed my used KW V3 Clubsport with custom top mounts.
Got a good price on it and since its the only way to run -2° or more camber in Germany legally, I went ahead and bought it. Those other top mounts are milled out and will allow for even more camber adjustment than with just the kw top mounts. Not that I would need it, but I decided to go for it since I don't want to rip out the dampers to install them later on if needed.
The springs of this V3 Clubsport are also slightly modded since I am running stiffer competition springs in the front so the suspension is able to handle the front-heavy weight balance a bit better. Was not yet able to properly test it, but on daily driving I must say I am suprised by how comfortable it can be despite being way better in the corners than the OEM suspension.
Tire temperature monitoring via CanChecked
Thanks to the help of everyone in this thread and to the Canbus-Guru Hendrik from CanChecked we were able to deduce the correct values for the CanChecked display as well. Super helpful when trying to figure out the operating temperature window of my semislicks when on track! This is what my current page now looks like (and yes I know the description for my EGT monitoring is wrong, was too lazy to fix it
):
Tire Defect
After all that it was time for my trip to the Nordschleife together with @Felix and a mate. Upon prepping my car I noticed the following on one of my semis:
^ mandatory crocks-shot in the bottom left
No way to drive with such a damaged tire. So I had to do my trip with my SportContact 7 (not that bad of a choice either
) and ordered new semis.The Gredge 07RS now held up for 2 years and roughly 6 trackdays. So maybe it was time anyway.
This time I went with the harder Gredge 07R. I was told by Zestino those are proper trackday tires and the 07RS is more of a time attack tire. Could confirm this for the 07RS since the tire overheated quite fast on the track. 140TW is quite soft and in the end it can't work its best if the car is as heavy as mine is.
Nordschleife visit incl suspension-setup
Arrived at the Nordschleife and immediately dropped my car off at Boes-Motorsport to get a proper alignment done. Told him which tracks I drive and what tires I run and he did his best. Have to say, his alignment as well as his damper-setup is brilliant. Its even softer than the official KW spec, meaning more comfort in daily use but still plenty of cornering-power
.Super happy with it!
Here are a few pics from our visit:
As you can see in the first pic I was sitting quite low, so I changed my seating-position after the visit. Still plenty low, but not as low as on the pic
.Finished my brake cooling
Finally, after lots of testing and trial and error I was able to finish up my custom brake cooling setup!
Super happy with it. Still need to test by how much it really reduces the temps in the end but in terms of fitment its super nice.
It is designed in such a way, that the hose does not touch any of the components, regardless of the driving condition. It also offers most protection of the brake discs still with plenty of cooling going along. It even comes with holes, so one could be able to add real-time brake temp monitoring later on.
Already have plans for a v2, but for the moment this has to be enough. Had quite a few people contact me if they can purchase a set, and I also have a shop at hand who might sell them for me in the future. Exciting times!
Here are the pics of the final setup:
CanChecked MCE18 install
In order to properly validate my brake cooling setup I have to add additional sensors to my CanChecked. Since I am already running a few sensors I am now in the process of adding the MCE18, an extension unit for the CanChecked. Quickly designed a mount for it and now the only thing left is the wiring. This little box has the advantage that I only have to run three wires (CanH, CanL and 12V) to the interior, the rest of the sensors can be connected in the engine bay. Had a bit of trouble running too many wires through the hood latch grommet into the interior, so I think this is more future proof.
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- Canchecked MCE18 install
- Liteblox Issues
- Brake cooling update
- Coolant temps
Canchecked MCE18 install
Today I upgraded my CanChecked Display with an additional extension unit, the MCE18 and I redid my custom wiring from the winter to tidy everything up a bit.
Old setup:
EGT monitoring > 5V > CanChecked Display
OBD Canbus > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
New Setup:
EGT monitoring > 5V > MCE18 > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
Brake temp monitoring (still a to-do) > 5V > MCE18 > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
OBD Canbus > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
In progress work:
Final setup:
Liteblox issues
Although I am a big fan of the anti-theft and the monitoring features of the liteblox battery, I started having issues with it after running it without any hiccups for the first six months. After that period, the battery management system of my N did not want to charge the battery correctly. So the charge state hovered between 10 and 50% for most of the time. Not ideal considering its a super small battery.
I was in contact with the support and we did a few changes to the setup but no luck so far. That was until @Felix pointed me to an adapter for the battery management system specifically designed for the Liteblox. So I now ordered that and hopefully it fixes my issue.
Brakecooling update
Just as a quick sidenote since I am super happy about it but don't wanna do big advertisement for it: My dreams came true and my brakecooling kit is now available at the nthusiastic store. Super stoked about it!
Coolant temps
On the recent trip to the Nordschleife I noticed it already: My coolant temps are quite high (talking 102C tops, but hovering at around 99C). Any tips on how to resolve this?
Current topics I already considered:
- thermostat: No-go since I also drive the car in the winter
- watercooler: Nothing on the market yet (the SXTH stuff is VN-only not sure if it would fit)
- coolant: I let my workshop change the coolant to a premix with MoCool, first impression: no change. But I may need to do another trackday to see if it actually works.
- hood with ventilation: My last resort if everything else fails
Next up: Finishing the MCE18 programming and installing the harness for the brake temp monitoring.
- Liteblox Issues
- Brake cooling update
- Coolant temps
Canchecked MCE18 install
Today I upgraded my CanChecked Display with an additional extension unit, the MCE18 and I redid my custom wiring from the winter to tidy everything up a bit.
Old setup:
EGT monitoring > 5V > CanChecked Display
OBD Canbus > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
New Setup:
EGT monitoring > 5V > MCE18 > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
Brake temp monitoring (still a to-do) > 5V > MCE18 > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
OBD Canbus > CanH/CanL > CanChecked Display
In progress work:
Final setup:
Liteblox issues
Although I am a big fan of the anti-theft and the monitoring features of the liteblox battery, I started having issues with it after running it without any hiccups for the first six months. After that period, the battery management system of my N did not want to charge the battery correctly. So the charge state hovered between 10 and 50% for most of the time. Not ideal considering its a super small battery.
I was in contact with the support and we did a few changes to the setup but no luck so far. That was until @Felix pointed me to an adapter for the battery management system specifically designed for the Liteblox. So I now ordered that and hopefully it fixes my issue.
Brakecooling update
Just as a quick sidenote since I am super happy about it but don't wanna do big advertisement for it: My dreams came true and my brakecooling kit is now available at the nthusiastic store. Super stoked about it!
Coolant temps
On the recent trip to the Nordschleife I noticed it already: My coolant temps are quite high (talking 102C tops, but hovering at around 99C). Any tips on how to resolve this?
Current topics I already considered:
- thermostat: No-go since I also drive the car in the winter
- watercooler: Nothing on the market yet (the SXTH stuff is VN-only not sure if it would fit)
- coolant: I let my workshop change the coolant to a premix with MoCool, first impression: no change. But I may need to do another trackday to see if it actually works.
- hood with ventilation: My last resort if everything else fails
Next up: Finishing the MCE18 programming and installing the harness for the brake temp monitoring.