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i30 N Bu11eT's Melody
- Thread starter Bu11eT
- Start date
Hello,
Well great car and very helpful thread that I wish I read very thoroughly earlier considering you went through some common problems and explained how to resolve them pretty well.
What I was curious about is the choice of tracking with 18s, since I'm still trying to make up my mind if it's worth investing in a set of 18s just for track. What's the benefit? Do you find they perform better or what?
Also, since you have a powerful car like mine too, do you find the added rubber helps you put down power in 2nd gear better?
Last question: do you re-align your car everytime you switch between 19s and 18s?
Well great car and very helpful thread that I wish I read very thoroughly earlier considering you went through some common problems and explained how to resolve them pretty well.
What I was curious about is the choice of tracking with 18s, since I'm still trying to make up my mind if it's worth investing in a set of 18s just for track. What's the benefit? Do you find they perform better or what?
Also, since you have a powerful car like mine too, do you find the added rubber helps you put down power in 2nd gear better?
Last question: do you re-align your car everytime you switch between 19s and 18s?
1) I went to 18 inch because you have more sidewall which was helpful with the oem suspension lacking the option to add camber at the time. There is a wider tire choice on 18" as well.
2) I run very good daily 19" and I don't have traction issues at all when it's dry. It's all about the mapping.
3) No, I don't realign it.
2) I run very good daily 19" and I don't have traction issues at all when it's dry. It's all about the mapping.
3) No, I don't realign it.
1) how much camber are you running with the new KW setup, and how much earlier?
2) I do too, Conti SC7, dry and warm tyres are the keywords though ahah
Earlier whatever the N came with from factory. Now -2.6 for daily usage and more depending on the track. Up to -4 is possible with my modified strut tops.
Sc7 works warm and cold, but it has to be dry. As long as that's fulfilled I have zero slip.
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all above -3° negative camber might be useless in terms of tyre wear or am i wrong?
heavily depends on the track. on the NOS and oschersleben up to -3.5 can make sense. bilster berg even more.
tire wear increases with those values, but as @drehstrom said, with a semi tyre its manageable.
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Aaaand another post 
Was able to finalize my work on my brake cooling setup. After 1.5 yrs of development and testing I'd say its good to go. Unfortunately its already too cold to do some proper temp comparison on e.g. the autobahn. I tried getting some proper temps in the brakes and its just not possible (while staying safe obv!).
And since I'll get the AP Racing BBK around Jan/Feb I'm afraid I cant do proper testing with the OEM caliper :/
But the kit now has a few advantages compared to other kits on the market, some of them being:
- the hose is waaaay shorter and does not have sharp angles and is optimized in terms of diameter-sizing. So it should last longer and allow for better cooling performance
- the kit is compatible with wishbone strengthening braces.
- Specifically designed inlets to prevent e.g. leaves from blocking the inlet ducting.
In the insta post you can see a few development cycles I went through:
Kit can be bought here:
www.nthusiastic.de
Enough advertisement
...
Bought myself a proper industrial canlogger.
This little box allows for proper canlogging on 2 canbus channels (obd is already connected, p-can/engine can will follow as soon as I found a good spot access it).
With a bit of magic this can be the output:
You can see its logging the standard data of our cars (had to reverse engineer the oiltemp (thanks again to @jeroenvde and @Davo01 for posting PIDs and working formulas) to work with standard dbc files and can messaging. Did the same for TPMS data.
The nice thing about this box is its external gps antenna. As you can see on the image above, I am able to pinpoint at which specific spot on my journey I had a specific data value. Gonna be super cool for analyzing trackdays. If I get gearcalc, throttle and brake pedal positioning as well I could even analyze my driving between the stints. Super stoked for this, but still lots of work to do here.
Also got myself a live canbus sniffer which I can use to reverse engineer a few signals. Gonna start with that as soon as I got the p-can connection working.
Need to configure the logger to upload data to my cloud storage automatically (my version of the logger can connect to a wifi hotspot to upload logged data). After that I could pre-build my dashboards so I can inspect the collected data even faster.
Was able to finalize my work on my brake cooling setup. After 1.5 yrs of development and testing I'd say its good to go. Unfortunately its already too cold to do some proper temp comparison on e.g. the autobahn. I tried getting some proper temps in the brakes and its just not possible (while staying safe obv!).
And since I'll get the AP Racing BBK around Jan/Feb I'm afraid I cant do proper testing with the OEM caliper :/
But the kit now has a few advantages compared to other kits on the market, some of them being:
- the hose is waaaay shorter and does not have sharp angles and is optimized in terms of diameter-sizing. So it should last longer and allow for better cooling performance
- the kit is compatible with wishbone strengthening braces.
- Specifically designed inlets to prevent e.g. leaves from blocking the inlet ducting.
In the insta post you can see a few development cycles I went through:
Kit can be bought here:
FB Works Bremsenkühlung für Hyundai i30 N Performance (2017-)
FB Works Hyundai i30N Bremsenkühlung Die FB Works Bremsenkühlung reduziert nachweisbar die Bremsscheibentemperaturen unter hoher Belastung. Dadurch erhöht sich u. a. die Lebensdauer der Scheiben und der Beläge und die Bremse wird vor unmittelbarem Hitzedefekt geschützt. Die Wirksamkeit des Kits...
www.nthusiastic.de
Enough advertisement
...
Bought myself a proper industrial canlogger.
This little box allows for proper canlogging on 2 canbus channels (obd is already connected, p-can/engine can will follow as soon as I found a good spot access it).
With a bit of magic this can be the output:
You can see its logging the standard data of our cars (had to reverse engineer the oiltemp (thanks again to @jeroenvde and @Davo01 for posting PIDs and working formulas) to work with standard dbc files and can messaging. Did the same for TPMS data.
The nice thing about this box is its external gps antenna. As you can see on the image above, I am able to pinpoint at which specific spot on my journey I had a specific data value. Gonna be super cool for analyzing trackdays. If I get gearcalc, throttle and brake pedal positioning as well I could even analyze my driving between the stints. Super stoked for this, but still lots of work to do here.
Also got myself a live canbus sniffer which I can use to reverse engineer a few signals. Gonna start with that as soon as I got the p-can connection working.
Need to configure the logger to upload data to my cloud storage automatically (my version of the logger can connect to a wifi hotspot to upload logged data). After that I could pre-build my dashboards so I can inspect the collected data even faster.
That brake cooling kit is looking exelent! You might have to ship one to Belgium next year...Aaaand another post
Was able to finalize my work on my brake cooling setup. After 1.5 yrs of development and testing I'd say its good to go. Unfortunately its already too cold to do some proper temp comparison on e.g. the autobahn. I tried getting some proper temps in the brakes and its just not possible (while staying safe obv!).
And since I'll get the AP Racing BBK around Jan/Feb I'm afraid I cant do proper testing with the OEM caliper :/
But the kit now has a few advantages compared to other kits on the market, some of them being:
- the hose is waaaay shorter and does not have sharp angles and is optimized in terms of diameter-sizing. So it should last longer and allow for better cooling performance
- the kit is compatible with wishbone strengthening braces.
- Specifically designed inlets to prevent e.g. leaves from blocking the inlet ducting.
In the insta post you can see a few development cycles I went through:
Kit can be bought here:
FB Works Bremsenkühlung für Hyundai i30 N Performance (2017-)
FB Works Hyundai i30N Bremsenkühlung Die FB Works Bremsenkühlung reduziert nachweisbar die Bremsscheibentemperaturen unter hoher Belastung. Dadurch erhöht sich u. a. die Lebensdauer der Scheiben und der Beläge und die Bremse wird vor unmittelbarem Hitzedefekt geschützt. Die Wirksamkeit des Kits...
Enough advertisement
...
Bought myself a proper industrial canlogger.
This little box allows for proper canlogging on 2 canbus channels (obd is already connected, p-can/engine can will follow as soon as I found a good spot access it).
With a bit of magic this can be the output:
You can see its logging the standard data of our cars (had to reverse engineer the oiltemp (thanks again to @jeroenvde and @Davo01 for posting PIDs and working formulas) to work with standard dbc files and can messaging. Did the same for TPMS data.
The nice thing about this box is its external gps antenna. As you can see on the image above, I am able to pinpoint at which specific spot on my journey I had a specific data value. Gonna be super cool for analyzing trackdays. If I get gearcalc, throttle and brake pedal positioning as well I could even analyze my driving between the stints. Super stoked for this, but still lots of work to do here.
Also got myself a live canbus sniffer which I can use to reverse engineer a few signals. Gonna start with that as soon as I got the p-can connection working.
Need to configure the logger to upload data to my cloud storage automatically (my version of the logger can connect to a wifi hotspot to upload logged data). After that I could pre-build my dashboards so I can inspect the collected data even faster.
Compared to speed engineering the price is perfect. Speed Engineering €350 kit can't be justified for me.
Regarding the canbus data, the ECU sends the oil temp on the C-can network but it's not live data, it has a small delay of x seconds... Probably to stop the cluster value from beeing "unstable".
The easiest point to tap the C-can network is in the steering wheel colum. Found this by looking at the Mando SDC ECS10 wiring manual.
Here is somethin intresting for you:
Good luck
sound like you are having some fun!ps, your picture is not working
I'd be happy toThat brake cooling kit is looking exelent! You might have to ship one to Belgium next year...
that explains the relatively stable value visible on the chart. Gonna look into other ways of getting that data, so its more "real-time".
yes I actually had a look at it too. Found multiple spots where I could tap in. But its quite hard to work on it since there isn much space for my cancrocodile adapter
. But I guess I just have to try it!that is huuuuge! Thanks for the link! So I CAN monitor driver related data (pun intended xD)
yes. my brain is melting sometimes which this complicated stuff
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After plenty of trial and error, I've finally found a solution to my exhaust flap rattle.
What I tried:
- New OEM spring - no change
- New ASR reinforced spring - rattle re-appeared after ~2 months
- Manually-bent OEM spring - rattle re-appeared after ~2 weeks
- New Actuator Unit - no change
- Changed the relevant ECU maps that control the exhaust valve to force it "more" shut. - no change
What helped in the end:
This should help, too: Dodge Part-No: 68319331AA
Both parts are redesigned from scratch to offer more axial force helping the valve stay shut.
The official dodge part is a part coming from Küster, the manufacturer of our OEM exhaust valve control unit. So it stays in its shape and won't bent back as the other unit which was bent manually.
The part on ebay has the same measurements as the official Dodge part, but is made from a different material which is supposed to be more heat-resistant. When I bought it, it was cheaper than the official Dodge part, that was my main reason to buy this one and not the official part.
Am running this unit for about 2 months now (wanted to make sure it really works) and the rattle is still non-existent.
Kudos to this guy:
What I tried:
- New OEM spring - no change
- New ASR reinforced spring - rattle re-appeared after ~2 months
- Manually-bent OEM spring - rattle re-appeared after ~2 weeks
- New Actuator Unit - no change
- Changed the relevant ECU maps that control the exhaust valve to force it "more" shut. - no change
What helped in the end:
This should help, too: Dodge Part-No: 68319331AA
Both parts are redesigned from scratch to offer more axial force helping the valve stay shut.
The official dodge part is a part coming from Küster, the manufacturer of our OEM exhaust valve control unit. So it stays in its shape and won't bent back as the other unit which was bent manually.
The part on ebay has the same measurements as the official Dodge part, but is made from a different material which is supposed to be more heat-resistant. When I bought it, it was cheaper than the official Dodge part, that was my main reason to buy this one and not the official part.
Am running this unit for about 2 months now (wanted to make sure it really works) and the rattle is still non-existent.
Kudos to this guy:
This might actually save me, but I'm still not sure my rattle is coming from the valve. I have the upgraded one and I still hear the rattling with closed valve, even if it's less. With open valve it's really minor, not even noticeable, maybe just slightly if you really pay attention.
I was thinking it's not the valve, maybe something broken in the exhaust belly, but i really don't know, is there any way to be sure?
Lift up the car and bang against the rear silencer. If somethings loose you'll hear it.
On time for the season start I have another update.
This time I am gonna include a few teasers since I hoped to be able to fit the stuff already, but no luck :/
- More C-CAN Canbus-Work
- Rear seat delete with DIY Clubsport-Net
- Fire Extinguisher Install
- KW Rebound Extension Install
- Frontend-Makeover
More C-CAN Canbus-Work
Since I am now able to fully log the C-Can on our Ns, I was able to find the following values:
- Current driving mode: I can now display in which driving mode I am in. The Canchecked display is a bit limited since I can only display raw data, so the driving modes are displayed as numbers
- Current gear: I can now also display the current gear you are in. Its a bit weird, since 0 is neutral, 1-6 work, and 7 is reverse
...
Rear seat delete with DIY Clubsport-Net
Had quite a journey with this
Initially I just wanted to get rid of the rear seats since they are rarely used and I get a second car in a few months which justifies me throwing out the rear seats completely. But after throwing them out, it looked random and not clean, so I bought the Sternperformance carpet used from Ebay.
Thought it would be an easy install, but it turns out I bought the wrong carpet, since there are two i30N versions on the market. One for cars with an adjustable rear floor and one for cars without it. I bought the wrong carpet, since my rear floor is adjustable so I asked Sternperformance if we could swap the carpets - they agreed. Unnecessary waste of time but now it fits
And here a pic of my DIY clubsport-net-setup. The net is still missing, but I already bought the "strut bars" and I designed and 3d printed mounts for both of them. After the net is done I am gonna send the "strut bars" to be painted matte black to fit the oem strut bar. They will have no functional use apart from keeping stuff in the trunk from flying into my neck upon braking.
...
Fire Extinguisher Install
I recently saw a new type of fire extinguisher become available in Germany, so I bought one since I always wanted to have one in my car. Its called "Element" and I am not sure whether it actually can extinguish a fire efficiently or not, since there are mixed videos on the web about it. But hey, better than nothing, it does not add weight and it is small enough to be installed in arms reach.
...
KW Rebound Extension Install
Next thing I did over the winter break was to come up with a way to be able to adjust the rebound on the front axle on my KW v3 Clubsport dampers. Initially, I wanted to create a service-flap in order to be able to adjust camber easier as well - similar how the VN has it. But that turned out way more complex than anticipated, so I just cut a small hole and bought rebound extensions from KW's site and installed them.
...
Frontend-Makeover
Since I had some light enemy contact (typical hit and run) while my car was parked I had one more reason to finally buy a new front bumper. In the same move I also ordered:
- the SJ TCR-style vented carbon hood (without aero-catches)
www.sj-exclusive.de
- the AP Racing Street Big Brake Kit in black
www.sj-exclusive.de
- black painted rear calipers
- wider fenders
www.sj-exclusive.de
- 9x18 ET35 and ET50 Protrack wheels in black
- 255/35/18 and 235/40/18 Nankang AR-1 tires
Everything is ready apart from the hood :/ Horrific delivery times (not SJ's fault here) is all I am gonna say...
As soon as the hood arrives we will mount everything, get it though German TÜV, disassemble the hood and fenders again and I am gonna send those together with my bumper to a paint shop to match the OEM color. Afterwards it'll get wrapped with PPF. Since all that is gonna take quite some time, I doubt I am gonna be able to use of the stuff (apart from the brake) on a trackday this year :/
This time I am gonna include a few teasers since I hoped to be able to fit the stuff already, but no luck :/
- More C-CAN Canbus-Work
- Rear seat delete with DIY Clubsport-Net
- Fire Extinguisher Install
- KW Rebound Extension Install
- Frontend-Makeover
More C-CAN Canbus-Work
Since I am now able to fully log the C-Can on our Ns, I was able to find the following values:
- Current driving mode: I can now display in which driving mode I am in. The Canchecked display is a bit limited since I can only display raw data, so the driving modes are displayed as numbers
- Current gear: I can now also display the current gear you are in. Its a bit weird, since 0 is neutral, 1-6 work, and 7 is reverse
...
Rear seat delete with DIY Clubsport-Net
Had quite a journey with this
Initially I just wanted to get rid of the rear seats since they are rarely used and I get a second car in a few months which justifies me throwing out the rear seats completely. But after throwing them out, it looked random and not clean, so I bought the Sternperformance carpet used from Ebay.
Thought it would be an easy install, but it turns out I bought the wrong carpet, since there are two i30N versions on the market. One for cars with an adjustable rear floor and one for cars without it. I bought the wrong carpet, since my rear floor is adjustable so I asked Sternperformance if we could swap the carpets - they agreed. Unnecessary waste of time but now it fits
And here a pic of my DIY clubsport-net-setup. The net is still missing, but I already bought the "strut bars" and I designed and 3d printed mounts for both of them. After the net is done I am gonna send the "strut bars" to be painted matte black to fit the oem strut bar. They will have no functional use apart from keeping stuff in the trunk from flying into my neck upon braking.
...
Fire Extinguisher Install
I recently saw a new type of fire extinguisher become available in Germany, so I bought one since I always wanted to have one in my car. Its called "Element" and I am not sure whether it actually can extinguish a fire efficiently or not, since there are mixed videos on the web about it. But hey, better than nothing, it does not add weight and it is small enough to be installed in arms reach.
...
KW Rebound Extension Install
Next thing I did over the winter break was to come up with a way to be able to adjust the rebound on the front axle on my KW v3 Clubsport dampers. Initially, I wanted to create a service-flap in order to be able to adjust camber easier as well - similar how the VN has it. But that turned out way more complex than anticipated, so I just cut a small hole and bought rebound extensions from KW's site and installed them.
...
Frontend-Makeover
Since I had some light enemy contact (typical hit and run) while my car was parked I had one more reason to finally buy a new front bumper. In the same move I also ordered:
- the SJ TCR-style vented carbon hood (without aero-catches)
Vollcarbonhaube mit Be- und Entlüftung TCR Style für Hyundai I30N | Serienverschluss | Ohne Montage | Ohne Tüv Abnahme | SW10006.8
Vollcarbonhaube in TCR Style in Sichtcarbon Finish für Hyundai i30N. Die Motorhaube wird mittels Serienverschluss oder Aero Catch Haltern verschlossen und an den Serienanschraubpunkten befestigt.Alle Zubehör Teile wie Aero Catch Halter und Schauben gehör…
www.sj-exclusive.de
- the AP Racing Street Big Brake Kit in black
Ap Racing (SJ Exclusive Street) Big Brake Kit für Hyundai I30N | Schwarz | Pagid RSL2 | Mit Montage | Mit Tüv Abnahme | SW10005.13
Die Anlage wurde von uns, einigen Kunden und sogar beim 24H Rennen getestet.Für jede Variante der passende Belag. Scheiben werden entweder in J- Hooks oder geschlitzt geliefert.355mm Schwimmend gelagerte Bremsscheiben, Bremsbeläge, Stahlflexleitungen, Mo…
www.sj-exclusive.de
- black painted rear calipers
- wider fenders
Breitbau Kotflügel für Hyundai I30N | GFK Gelcoat | SW10008.1
Mücke-Carbon verbreiterte Kotflügel aus GFK. Die Kotflügel werden aus GFK gefertigt und können in 2 Varianten bestellt werden.Variante 1 hat ein Sichtcarbon Finish und Variante 2 ein Gelcoat finish.Materialgutachten zur §21 Abnahme werden mitgeliefert. (…
www.sj-exclusive.de
- 9x18 ET35 and ET50 Protrack wheels in black
- 255/35/18 and 235/40/18 Nankang AR-1 tires
Everything is ready apart from the hood :/ Horrific delivery times (not SJ's fault here) is all I am gonna say...
As soon as the hood arrives we will mount everything, get it though German TÜV, disassemble the hood and fenders again and I am gonna send those together with my bumper to a paint shop to match the OEM color. Afterwards it'll get wrapped with PPF. Since all that is gonna take quite some time, I doubt I am gonna be able to use of the stuff (apart from the brake) on a trackday this year :/
Last edited:
- the SJ TCR-style vented carbon hood (without aero-catches)
Vollcarbonhaube mit Be- und Entlüftung TCR Style für Hyundai I30N | Serienverschluss | Ohne Montage | Ohne Tüv Abnahme | SW10006.8
Vollcarbonhaube in TCR Style in Sichtcarbon Finish für Hyundai i30N. Die Motorhaube wird mittels Serienverschluss oder Aero Catch Haltern verschlossen und an den Serienanschraubpunkten befestigt.Alle Zubehör Teile wie Aero Catch Halter und Schauben gehör…
Just noticed they used my pictures for the hood
yep it is.Nice mods!
Is your bucketseat belt-mounting TÜV compliant?
If yes can you share what parts you used?
I have mine strapped at the role cage and that's not.
I'm still looking for a decent way to mount mine TUV proof
Used
- Harness: Takata 4-Punkt-Gurt. 2″ und 3“ (ca. 50 mm bzw. 75mm) (nexdshop.de) (Bold-on)
- Schroth Harness adapters: Adapter für asm-autocontrol - Zubehör (schroth.de)
Needs to be mounted directly to the OEM position of the original seatbelts of the rear seats.