Took it straight off the car chassis, under the windscreen... still no go. Strange, very strange.
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You can try Ferodo DS2500. Great for daily use and light track days. It is considdered an upgrade over the standard pads
In https://partsouq.com/ select:
Under "CHASSIS" you'll find the "FRONT WHEEL BRAKE". I'm guessing you're from Australia since that's the only place that still has i30N.
Part number should be 58101S0A20.
I got those before a track day in October - newbie here. After few laps with instructor managed to glaze them (didn't know at the time). Got vibrations in the steering wheel above 100 km/h and breaking. Was driving with them for a while (the vibrations subsided mostly after some driving). At some point got the pads off, they were indeed not in grate shape although still plenty of material on them. Ran them through some sandpaper to remove the glossy layer, cleaned the disks (DBA 4000 T3) with break cleaner, put them back together and no vibrations now.
Now looking at either Pagid RSL29, or Pagid Racing RSL 2, or Ferodo DS3.12 (which seem to be more aggressive on the disks) before next track driving.
can recommend the RSL29 with DBA T3 4000 discs on a stock caliper.
Imo best combination in terms of brake bite vs temperature management.
Everything more aggressive will cook your disc if driven hard on the track, even with additional brake cooling.
Its already easy enough to completely burn off all the temperature indicator markings on the DBA discs with the RSL29 pads, so this setup alone pushes the discs to their limits in terms of temperature.
I recently installed the setup you refer (with ebc braided lines added and Motul Rbf660) and at the moment I am in bedding-in procedure.
The initial bite seems to be as in OEM brakes, but they are a little bit squeaking.
I ll test them on the track too and I hope everything will be ok, as I read the DBA discs sometimes crack.
Let's see!
at least in my circle everyone is super happy with the DBA T3 4000 discs. It seems they are way more forgiving than Tarox discs in terms of bedding them in correctly.
Temps well above 650°C also don't seem to be a problem for the discs - often times the street/trackday pads start fading at ~600°Cish so there is a bit of safety margin with the discs.
I ran them when I still had the OEM calipers and was super happy with them, 3 buddies run them too and none of them had any issues so far.
had them in the beginning. was the worst disc/pad combo for the track I could imagine.
Discs would warp nearly instantly and the pads were overheating massively after a few laps, too which resulted in the brake loosing about 90% of its braking performance. That experience was not pleasant I can tell you.
For normal street driving they were fine.
Thank
you for your perspective
I am however curious what track did you use em on?
My current OEM were fine at Nürburgring.
Nordschleife is not a brake intensive track at all.
Try the Nürburgring GP Circuit to get a better reference.
I tried them in Oschersleben as well as on the Bilster Berg. In both cases they were horrible.
Hockenheimring is even worse fir breaks imo.
I'm considering the OEM discs with EBC Yellow Stuff.
yes it is, I just did not yet go there.
Worst cases are short tracks with long straights, such as Padborg Park in Denmark for example.
Meppen is also not nice to the brakes - not necessarily to the disc, but the caliper gets loads of heat it cannot dissipate properly, because there is no real highspeed section on the track for cooldown.
It always depends on what you want to achieve. If you are striving for more braking performance, you have to keep in mind that the heat will be much higher. So either find a setup with less braking performance which therefore also works on cheaper, non-heattreated discs, or go for a more aggressive setup which requires the disc to be more resilient to higher temperatures.
Combine that with proper cooling and the specific track you want to track your car on and its gets complicated finding the correct balance.
I'm at a constant conflict of what is good and what isn't.
As many say this and that are bad for daily or track day.
I personally track my i30N about 2 times a year at the Nürburgring
Might as well change the entier breaking systems.
I'm unsure what to take to be honest my dude.
just stick to OEM type stuff. If its just the Nordschleife a few times a year there is no need to go full bonkers with the brake setup.
Try stuff out yourself and form an opinion about it. Not everyone drives (and brakes) the same and not everyone drives on the same track.
If its really just a few times a year that you track your car, its not the end of the world if you pick wrong pads initially.
Most pads work totally fine for daily use.
In terms of combining discs and pads have a look here:
Thank you for the help and perspective,that list sure will be helpful.
Beside my OEM Breaks are 5 years old
(i30N 2020 pfl)
I tested my RSL29 with the stock disks on Monday. I was using Yellowstuff in the rear (dunno, didn't feel right to pay 400 euro for rear pads when most of the braking comes from front) and they worked out fine. It was a Nordschleife training, with paced laps and then free laps, so I went quite a bit faster than I normally would, we even had turn in points and apexes marked, I could get used to that!! Signed up for the October one immediately, the one that was not full yet, fingers crossed for weather. Of course it was not allowed to measure (safety first, and learn clean driving which i agree with) but if I had to guess after the day based on gopro and stuff, I was 30-40 seconds faster than my faster laps before, let's say aprox a 9:20-9:30 btg pace, with cleaner curves than ever, just to establish the usage type.
Anyway I went 2-3 laps at a time and the pads felt better, i think? (was last time there last year) they were more consistent over the laps and maybe a bit shorter braking, nothing dramatic but I felt more confident with them, can't explain otherwise. Some squeaking at low speed before, went away after the day. Of course I was chicken for the one Dottinger Hohe flyby I did and lifted off at Antoniusbuche. Imo these cars are bricks (you may disagree, I'm not an expert) not meant for well over 200+ so downforce may be sketchy...
I wonder how different the DBA T3 4000 disks you mentioned are? I imagine dimensions are the same right? so same mass? (asking for heat dissipation) - except the grooves that maybe help extra, not sure of the physics of it, maybe different materials... compared to stock, if there's any disadvantages you noticed, do they still live through 2 pads as normal or anything (asking for not just track but also street / highway usage)? Are they street legal in DE or no? Do you also use cooling, if yes which?
Btw do you use your car as daily or dedicated for fun? I'm trying to strike a good balance between 90% street, 10% track, not too crazy prices...
Not related to the topic but I may also need to look into oil cooling, 135 degrees is not horrible but this would be a lot higher if we had 35 celsius ambient not 20...
edit: the guy that installed my pads (ringtoys brake guy) said i should always keep a pair of front disks handy as they tend to crack
for whatever it's worth, they probably see more heavy brake usega than a typical garage, or especially, dealer...
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not sure about the weight, but its roughly the same as the OEM rotors.
grooves help keep the pads clean.
Since the DBA ones are heat-treated steel they can withstand massively more heat compared to the OEM ones. I did not see any bigger disadvantages compared to OEM, apart from the price.
The DBA ones should easily outlast 2 or 3 sets of RSL29 I'd say.
They are legal in Germany, yes.
I run my own cooling: https://www.nthusiastic.de/products/fb-works-bremsenkuhlung-fur-hyundai-i30-n-performance-2017-2021
I wanted to use them for rear because of the price if my original order for rsl29 + street+ would have went through. For what it's worth it's a rebranding of the S range so if anyone used those it should be same or similar, at least targeted to same segment. I'm also curious.