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yes, dont use them if you are driving the car on the track. They cant cope with the heat.
I am talking about the Xtreme Performance pads which are already their highest rated tier. So it includes street ceramic and street performance as well
The idea is daily use and one or two track days a year, so would the Xtreme be suitable?
I disliked the low bite of the Xtreme Pads, so I would recommend other pads. The RSL29 have a strong bite which stays consistent with high temps, although they may squeak during daily driving. The RSL29 also require a hardened disk such as from dba or tarox
Are there any risks running a "standard" brembo/zimmermann/EBC blank disc with RSL29 or similar (DS3.12) pads?
Besides the discs beeing eaten much quicker?
I have Tarox F2000 and Pagid RSL29 on my FL and I'm not very happy with RSL29, they have a strange feeling lake fadeout when you are braking from high speed (220kmh) to low speed corner (90kmh). They don't fadeout but the feeling is wrong, now I will put Ferodo 3.12 and see is there a difference or the problem is something else. (I have SRF oil and brake lines)
yeah the disc can warp - which you could say is another way of the disc being eaten very quickAre there any risks running a "standard" brembo/zimmermann/EBC blank disc with RSL29 or similar (DS3.12) pads?
Besides the discs beeing eaten much quicker?
There is no such thing as warped discs according to this blog https://alconkits.com/blogs/news/the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotorsyeah the disc can warp - which you could say is another way of the disc being eaten very quick
mhmm thats an interesting read. That shruddering is what I always thought warped discs would feel like. If its just normal pad material on the disc then that should not be a problem.
The only thing that stands against this blog post is the fact that non-heat-treated discs often show cracks, which is a result of heat-deformation which in turn stressed the material. So if the heat-deformation occurs, then its not far away from real warping. Just thinking out loud here...
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Yes, some cheap rotors will have internal stress due to lack of or incorrect heat treatment. However these cracks are not always felt in the brake pedal... If you can feel them it is probably a serious crack and the rotor must be replaced anyway.
The article does not speak about cracks, just pad deposit due to pads beeing abused and getting way too hot. If you feel the judder you are melting your pads
you should take a few cooldown laps. I had this with the DS2500. The deposit didn't wear off daily-ing the car and got even worse on the next spirited drive. DS2500 molten deposit is very hard to remove. Running a dial gauge on the rotor I noticed some high spots but the back side of the rotor was flat and within spec... This means the rotor was not warped but it just had spots of pad deposit... I ended up cleaning the rotors on a lathe. Alternatively you can run a track pad to eat away the old deposit
Good tip, I also run the DS2500 although on a bigger AP Racing brake. Dont have any heat-problems with my cooling there, yet (can run 15mins full attack on the bilster berg without overheating the brakes). @Felix had those judder problems with his huge brembo brake, also cooling, also DS2500 pads but with a brembo oem disc. If that blog post says warping isnt really possible then maybe some discs are more prone to brake pad deposits - what do you think?
When I was running the OEM brake I had the judder on nearly every pad combo with non-heat-treated discs. As soon as I swapped over to a DBA T3000 disc I never had the judder ever again. That's why I thought it would be a warped disc.
When I was running the OEM brake I had the judder on nearly every pad combo with non-heat-treated discs. As soon as I swapped over to a DBA T3000 disc I never had the judder ever again. That's why I thought it would be a warped disc.
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I have experienced the same problem with the DS2500 on the rear discs; After installing new discs and pads and running them in, I apparently did not allow enough time for the assembly to cool and a small part of the pads on the left rear wheel stuck to the disc after applying the handbrake.Yes, some cheap rotors will have internal stress due to lack of or incorrect heat treatment. However these cracks are not always felt in the brake pedal... If you can feel them it is probably a serious crack and the rotor must be replaced anyway.
The article does not speak about cracks, just pad deposit due to pads beeing abused and getting way too hot. If you feel the judder you are melting your pads
In the front axle with Zimmermann perforated discs and DS3.12 pads, the performance this past winter has not been adequate, it was difficult to have optimal working temperature and they have worn the disc severely.
I am clear that after the summer I will surely install a kit of 6-piston Alcon calipers and floating discs with DS3000 pads and keeping the DS2500 on the rear axle.
https://paragonbrakes.com/paragon-alcon-big-brake-kit-front-mono-6-hyundai-veloster-n-i30-n/
Does anyone know the PBS Prorace/Protrack brake pads? Based on other forums related to other cars seems to receive quite good feedbacks. And they seems also to be quite cheap.. Hmm..
I personally run the PBS PRORace pads and love them.Especially when they have some heat in to them.
Even with 255/35r19 Semi slicks. they perform very well.