-
Welcome to N-cars.net - the largest Hyundai N car forum. Check out the model specific sections below and scroll down for country specific forums. Scroll down for i30 N, Ioniq 5 N, i20 N, Veloster N and Kona N forums! Check out the i30 N Bible Here!
Brake pads
- Thread starter Ches7
- Start date
I am waiting confirmation by EBC.co.uk for Yellowstuff 4000 series front back, since the OEM ones are not for my braking standard ...
Braided lines and an ultra high quality brake fluid would do wonders, RBF660 has fixed my "softening" brake pedal since I fly downhill often and get more and more fade each time.
Brakes I am not happy at all! They definitely need an upgrade. I was running a 208 GTi by Peugeot Sport and the braking system was far far far better. So waiting for EBC to get rotors / pads front rear / brake lines and DOT 5.1 brake fluids ... and we see how it goes
Especially when cold the pads are simply not working ... You have to make some brake testing and then they are a bit better
Especially when cold the pads are simply not working ... You have to make some brake testing and then they are a bit better
I like the fact they say they have no plans for brake lines but will probably have them. That's good to know. Still annoying about having to wait so long, might be my first car I'll actually care about modifying properly
Sounds like the brake material is so big, pads and rotors that city driving do not create enough heat to start the adhesive coating vice versa layer. Sportier pads will even need more heat for a good initial bite.
Huh in what way? I've ran EBC discs and pads on some of my cars before and they have been amazing. They are more than likely what I'm going to put on my other car when I fix it. I was also contemplating them for the i20n as well
EBC is a way expensive, worth noting if you had tried serious stuff before. I made my experience with many pads from EBC over 10 years ago. Their rotors were never something special, so no need even to try.
Serious rotors have to be plain or maximum grooved, the more important thing is good heat treatment reworking and balancing. No need for stylo mylo bling bling rotors.
Serious rotors have to be plain or maximum grooved, the more important thing is good heat treatment reworking and balancing. No need for stylo mylo bling bling rotors.
I've had red hot glowing disks and totally glassed pads (front and rear) from a downhill mountain run. Decided to put 4 piston brembo front calipers, Ferodo DS3.12 pads, Godspeed J-Hook disks for the i30N (original disks are 320x28mm, these are 345x30mm) and for the rear Carbotech AX6 brake pads. Custom braided brake lines and Motul RBF660 fluid.
The car stops on a dime and the more heat is in the brakes, the better it brakes. Honestly couldn't be happier. Stock single piston brakes are a joke for serious use.
The car stops on a dime and the more heat is in the brakes, the better it brakes. Honestly couldn't be happier. Stock single piston brakes are a joke for serious use.
Maybe due ESP cause it regulates a lot on plus. I do also sometimes a downhill run with my Saxo 840kg 247mm F/R never got issues like you. Okay Tarox rotors & DS2500 pads on front, the 20N is of course a lot heavier plus that hefty wheel weights. But I hope not to modify the N in terms of calipers. One day for sure some serious pads and rotors if really necessary. Also depends how driveable the N will be on a 20-30minute blast. The Pirelli's will suffer first I think, on the Saxo are A052's mounted in 195/50R15 as a reference!
The i20n brakes really aren't that good, but it is like I said. On normal driving brakes are way to cold and won't have operating temperatures. Once they're warm they will brake much better for a while, already had the N on a B road blast and noticed this behavior. But no doubt for long time periods of blasting, mods must be done. Braided lines, SRF fluid some better pads. If the rotors can't take the extra heat then they'll have to be changed as well.
I found out that the rear brake pad part number is the same as the Kia Optima JF 2.0, so at least we have some EBC YellowStuff and GreenStuff pads.
Regarding the front pads, nothing yet....
You wouldn't happen to have the model or part number of those brake calipers, would you?
Personally I put a tiny amount of thermal paste that's used in electronics between the wheel and the rotor.
This serves a couple of purposes.
1. It stops any corrosion between the two surfaces as it keeps all the water out.
2. It assists in the heat transfer between the rotor and the rim reducing the rotor temp.
The rim is one massive aluminum heatsink. The stuff I use is the cheaper White version NOT the really expensive Silver one that actually contains a lot of silver (the best heat conducting metal there is). The Silver one is used for CPU's in your computer and is extremally thermal conductive.
Before you go off and say that it affects your tire pressure, probably not on a 19inch multispoke forged rim, there is just not the section of alloy to conduct the heat right out to the tire and remember those spokes are spinning at high rpm through the air and are being cooled rapidly.
Nothing wrong with the stock single piston caliper, its all about the pads and the size, material and design of the rotors.
Considering the size of the stock i30N rotors are the same diameter as my stock WHEELS on my old car, I'm not anticipating any issues.
Advantages and disadvantages of multi piston calipers. Sure when everything is new, in theory the multi-piston will give you more even brake pad wear but besides being more expensive, if poorly maintained without fluid changes individual pistons can stick and you are no better off.
If I ever see the need you can simply move to a track focused front pad for the i30N here.
parts.philgilberthyundai.com.au
i20N here.
parts.philgilberthyundai.com.au
Rears also available, what else do you need.
Nothing wrong with the stock set-up, you must always remember to run in any new pads with about 300km of "Normal " driving before trying to race on them.
This serves a couple of purposes.
1. It stops any corrosion between the two surfaces as it keeps all the water out.
2. It assists in the heat transfer between the rotor and the rim reducing the rotor temp.
The rim is one massive aluminum heatsink. The stuff I use is the cheaper White version NOT the really expensive Silver one that actually contains a lot of silver (the best heat conducting metal there is). The Silver one is used for CPU's in your computer and is extremally thermal conductive.
Before you go off and say that it affects your tire pressure, probably not on a 19inch multispoke forged rim, there is just not the section of alloy to conduct the heat right out to the tire and remember those spokes are spinning at high rpm through the air and are being cooled rapidly.
Nothing wrong with the stock single piston caliper, its all about the pads and the size, material and design of the rotors.
Considering the size of the stock i30N rotors are the same diameter as my stock WHEELS on my old car, I'm not anticipating any issues.
Advantages and disadvantages of multi piston calipers. Sure when everything is new, in theory the multi-piston will give you more even brake pad wear but besides being more expensive, if poorly maintained without fluid changes individual pistons can stick and you are no better off.
If I ever see the need you can simply move to a track focused front pad for the i30N here.
N Performance Front Brake Pads - Part no. HYS0A18APH00
Genuine Hyundai Parts & Accessories. Hyundai spare parts, merchandise and N Performance parts.
parts.philgilberthyundai.com.au
i20N here.
N Performance Front Brake Pads - Part no. HYC0A18APH00
Genuine Hyundai Parts & Accessories. Hyundai spare parts, merchandise and N Performance parts.
parts.philgilberthyundai.com.au
Rears also available, what else do you need.
Nothing wrong with the stock set-up, you must always remember to run in any new pads with about 300km of "Normal " driving before trying to race on them.
Last edited: