I bought ATE discs, so far good. I was in hurry with pads because I had to go on trip next day. Bought Textar pads because they were the only one available at that moment.. dont buy textar. No track use, only some spirited driving. They glued off.Anyone know about front discs that may be a bit better than OEM in wear resistance?
Oh god! After my post I did a bit of research and found several options for discs and pads, it seems more compatible products are finally coming out.I bought ATE discs, so far good. I was in hurry with pads because I had to go on trip next day. Bought Textar pads because they were the only one available at that moment.. dont buy textar. No track use, only some spirited driving. They glued off.
Sure, I would be grateful for links. I had great experience with Zimmerman drilled on my Astra OPC. They lasted for 4 years and 2 pad sets. I machine discs by myself if they have enough “meat” left.Oh god! After my post I did a bit of research and found several options for discs and pads, it seems more compatible products are finally coming out.
Discs I am eyeing either sport Zimmerman (slotted) or Tarox.
Pads we have Ferodo DS2500, Fritech R40 and R60 (which I wouldn’t recommend with stock discs), project Mu, those from Nexd (the version for i30N is even listed on Hyundai Zubehoer), some Pagid and Endless too. Can provide links if interested
Excellent choice I think.I’ve just ordered Tarox (drilled and grooved) - delivery is two weeks so we shall see.
it looks like it has enough slack to remove caliper from bracket, maybe I am wrong. Calliper is probably twist and push style to move calliper piston back. I have done many rear brakes and only time I had to remove parking cable is because there is no enough slack in cable to remove calliper from bracket. I generally use screwdriver to put springs back when I am doing braking shoes, hope it helps.Anyone who has changed the pads themselves has done also the rear ones?
In particular how do you remove the retaining clip of the parking brake cable? Any tools needed?
View attachment 26676
Copy thank you! Perhaps they say to remove it because then they say to remove only the bottom bolt and rotate the caliper to expose the pads? Maybe removing both bolts will require less movement of the caliper?it looks like it has enough slack to remove caliper from bracket, maybe I am wrong. Calliper is probably twist and push style to move calliper piston back. I have done many rear brakes and only time I had to remove parking cable is because there is no enough slack in cable to remove calliper from bracket. I generally use screwdriver to put springs back when I am doing braking shoes, hope it helps.
Anyone who has changed the pads themselves has done also the rear ones?
In particular how do you remove the retaining clip of the parking brake cable? Any tools needed?
View attachment 26676
I always remove both bolts on rear calipers, its just easier to do. Yes you can rotate piston with cable attached. Make sure parking brake is off, you dont want cable pulling lever arm on calliper.Copy thank you! Perhaps they say to remove it because then they say to remove only the bottom bolt and rotate the caliper to expose the pads? Maybe removing both bolts will require less movement of the caliper?
Yes, I will get the tool to compress and rotate. So you confirm you can rotate the piston even with the parking brake cable attached?
I recently installed the Tarox F2000 front discs with Corsa pads and have already done 1 track day after the bedding-in period.I’ve just ordered Tarox (drilled and grooved) - delivery is two weeks so we shall see.
Cool! Where did you get the Corsa pads?I recently installed the Tarox F2000 front discs with Corsa pads and have already done 1 track day after the bedding-in period.
Brakes feel better and can last longer - with stock brakes I could only do 1-2 fast laps before the pads were fading, now I can do 5-6 consecutive flying laps.
for both track days I was using the Pirellis, RBF600 brake fluid, OEM rear pads, and stock brake lines.
From my Tarox local dealer in Israel.Cool! Where did you get the Corsa pads?
Their website only lists the Strada ones: https://www.taroxbrakes.eu/product/front-tarox-brake-pads-hyundai-i20-bc3-n-1-6-t-gdi/
Do you get strange vibration/sound from Zimmer rotor on high speed braking? Mine developed strange vibration after set of bluestuff(they lasted about 3000km). Around 1000km on first set of pads they developed strange vibration/sound. I checked them with micrometer if they are warped and its all in spec. Resurfaced them on mill by myself and slaped new set of pads and they still got strange subtle vibration and strange grinding sound on high speed braking(140kmh+)So I’ve decided for the time being to stick with the stock system and try out different discs and pads. I’ve been running since several thousand kilometers Pagid Street+ pads both front and rear with front Zimmerman discs (and rear stock ones). I can report the Pagids feel very high quality, very consistent braking, no noise, very gentle on the discs. I had two track day sessions with them and they hold up well, they fade a bit but recover well. They offer excellent modulation and they work again on the street immediately after coming out of the track (which is usually not the case until brake deposits on the discs are cleaned up). Downside is that wear has been quite fast, from 11mm thickness when new down to 6mm after the two track days, so I don’t think they have much more than another one in them. Also the friction coefficient seems a bit lower than the advertised 0.5 comparing it to other pads I had. All in all recommended for fast street use and premium feel.
Next up will be Project Mu HC+ for the front which some people report as good dual street/track pads.