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Brake pads

Anyone know about front discs that may be a bit better than OEM in wear resistance?
 
Anyone know about front discs that may be a bit better than OEM in wear resistance?
I bought ATE discs, so far good. I was in hurry with pads because I had to go on trip next day. Bought Textar pads because they were the only one available at that moment.. dont buy textar. No track use, only some spirited driving. They glued off.
 

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I bought ATE discs, so far good. I was in hurry with pads because I had to go on trip next day. Bought Textar pads because they were the only one available at that moment.. dont buy textar. No track use, only some spirited driving. They glued off.
Oh god! After my post I did a bit of research and found several options for discs and pads, it seems more compatible products are finally coming out.
Discs I am eyeing either sport Zimmerman (slotted) or Tarox.
Pads we have Ferodo DS2500, Fritech R40 and R60 (which I wouldn’t recommend with stock discs), project Mu, those from Nexd (the version for i30N is even listed on Hyundai Zubehoer), some Pagid and Endless too. Can provide links if interested
 
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Oh god! After my post I did a bit of research and found several options for discs and pads, it seems more compatible products are finally coming out.
Discs I am eyeing either sport Zimmerman (slotted) or Tarox.
Pads we have Ferodo DS2500, Fritech R40 and R60 (which I wouldn’t recommend with stock discs), project Mu, those from Nexd (the version for i30N is even listed on Hyundai Zubehoer), some Pagid and Endless too. Can provide links if interested
Sure, I would be grateful for links. I had great experience with Zimmerman drilled on my Astra OPC. They lasted for 4 years and 2 pad sets. I machine discs by myself if they have enough “meat” left.
 
So, this is what I have so far (some links are to Italian or German websites, use translate if needed):

Brake discs
Note: front size is 320x28mm. Volvo has the same size on some of its cars, but with different hub, so not compatible!
Brake pads
Note: check size https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/brake-pads.6851/post-159036
Big brake kits
Others
EDIT: Actually found out here on the forum that there is a very good (German) website with all these options and more! https://www.at-rs.de/shop/index.php

EDIT2: Japanese website which sells Endless and ProjectMu at a very convenient price! https://www.rhdjapan.com/search/eng.../hyundai_i20n/car/hyundai/cpre/1/incldisc/uni
 
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Update: after not being satisfied with local store bought pads and discs I switched to Zimmerman Drilled(285.3519.52) and EBC blue stuff. After break in period and two heat cycles over 400 degrees celsius on pads,pedal feeling is much better than stock pads and discs. They bite on slightest touch on pedal when on operating temperature and are still driveable when cold.
 

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Brake cooling kit from hrnshn-racing.de

I think it has made a positive impact, although probably just the fact of removing the dust shields has yielded an improvement on the discs temp

Last year the front wheels became so hot once that the paint started to peel off from the rims :eek:

Looking next for a BBK and lower friction endurance pads (like Pagid RSL29) to further help with reducing heat generation while keeping a strong bite
 

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I’ve just ordered Tarox (drilled and grooved) - delivery is two weeks so we shall see.
 
I’ve just ordered Tarox (drilled and grooved) - delivery is two weeks so we shall see.
Excellent choice I think.

The kit I'm eyeing is this one: https://freakyparts.co.uk/products/hyundai-i20n-brembo-4-pot-big-brake-kit-front

It uses the same calipers from Megane III RS as yours but the discs from i30N, which I think offer two advantages:
  • Bigger size 345x30 instead of 320x28 --> +8% effective radius and +33% more volume/mass
  • Taller discs 52mm instead of 47mm --> the center of the disc is 4mm more inward (closer to the centerline of the car), which means the calipers will be 4mm further away from the rim requiring smaller wheel spacers
Well third advantage is that the i30N has been on sale for longer and there are more discs options
 

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I agree with all your points. Unfortunately, for me, my caliper adaptor brackets are made for i20N discs and that does limit choice of disc. I have considered buying the Freaky Parts brackets but mine are actually very nicely made with steel inserts and a stronger construction. I also wonder what the brake bias will feel like. At present my car is extremely stable and predictable under heavy braking.
 
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Anyone who has changed the pads themselves has done also the rear ones?

In particular how do you remove the retaining clip of the parking brake cable? Any tools needed?

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Anyone who has changed the pads themselves has done also the rear ones?

In particular how do you remove the retaining clip of the parking brake cable? Any tools needed?

View attachment 26676
it looks like it has enough slack to remove caliper from bracket, maybe I am wrong. Calliper is probably twist and push style to move calliper piston back. I have done many rear brakes and only time I had to remove parking cable is because there is no enough slack in cable to remove calliper from bracket. I generally use screwdriver to put springs back when I am doing braking shoes, hope it helps.
 
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it looks like it has enough slack to remove caliper from bracket, maybe I am wrong. Calliper is probably twist and push style to move calliper piston back. I have done many rear brakes and only time I had to remove parking cable is because there is no enough slack in cable to remove calliper from bracket. I generally use screwdriver to put springs back when I am doing braking shoes, hope it helps.
Copy thank you! Perhaps they say to remove it because then they say to remove only the bottom bolt and rotate the caliper to expose the pads? Maybe removing both bolts will require less movement of the caliper?

Yes, I will get the tool to compress and rotate. So you confirm you can rotate the piston even with the parking brake cable attached?
 
Anyone who has changed the pads themselves has done also the rear ones?

In particular how do you remove the retaining clip of the parking brake cable? Any tools needed?

View attachment 26676

Copy thank you! Perhaps they say to remove it because then they say to remove only the bottom bolt and rotate the caliper to expose the pads? Maybe removing both bolts will require less movement of the caliper?

Yes, I will get the tool to compress and rotate. So you confirm you can rotate the piston even with the parking brake cable attached?
I always remove both bolts on rear calipers, its just easier to do. Yes you can rotate piston with cable attached. Make sure parking brake is off, you dont want cable pulling lever arm on calliper.
 
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I’ve just ordered Tarox (drilled and grooved) - delivery is two weeks so we shall see.
I recently installed the Tarox F2000 front discs with Corsa pads and have already done 1 track day after the bedding-in period.
Brakes feel better and can last longer - with stock brakes I could only do 1-2 fast laps before the pads were fading, now I can do 5-6 consecutive flying laps.

for both track days I was using the Pirellis, RBF600 brake fluid, OEM rear pads, and stock brake lines.
 
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I recently installed the Tarox F2000 front discs with Corsa pads and have already done 1 track day after the bedding-in period.
Brakes feel better and can last longer - with stock brakes I could only do 1-2 fast laps before the pads were fading, now I can do 5-6 consecutive flying laps.

for both track days I was using the Pirellis, RBF600 brake fluid, OEM rear pads, and stock brake lines.
Cool! Where did you get the Corsa pads?
Their website only lists the Strada ones: https://www.taroxbrakes.eu/product/front-tarox-brake-pads-hyundai-i20-bc3-n-1-6-t-gdi/
 
So I’ve decided for the time being to stick with the stock system and try out different discs and pads. I’ve been running since several thousand kilometers Pagid Street+ pads both front and rear with front Zimmerman discs (and rear stock ones). I can report the Pagids feel very high quality, very consistent braking, no noise, very gentle on the discs. I had two track day sessions with them and they hold up well, they fade a bit but recover well. They offer excellent modulation and they work again on the street immediately after coming out of the track (which is usually not the case until brake deposits on the discs are cleaned up). Downside is that wear has been quite fast, from 11mm thickness when new down to 6mm after the two track days, so I don’t think they have much more than another one in them. Also the friction coefficient seems a bit lower than the advertised 0.5 comparing it to other pads I had. All in all recommended for fast street use and premium feel.
Next up will be Project Mu HC+ for the front which some people report as good dual street/track pads.
 
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So I’ve decided for the time being to stick with the stock system and try out different discs and pads. I’ve been running since several thousand kilometers Pagid Street+ pads both front and rear with front Zimmerman discs (and rear stock ones). I can report the Pagids feel very high quality, very consistent braking, no noise, very gentle on the discs. I had two track day sessions with them and they hold up well, they fade a bit but recover well. They offer excellent modulation and they work again on the street immediately after coming out of the track (which is usually not the case until brake deposits on the discs are cleaned up). Downside is that wear has been quite fast, from 11mm thickness when new down to 6mm after the two track days, so I don’t think they have much more than another one in them. Also the friction coefficient seems a bit lower than the advertised 0.5 comparing it to other pads I had. All in all recommended for fast street use and premium feel.
Next up will be Project Mu HC+ for the front which some people report as good dual street/track pads.
Do you get strange vibration/sound from Zimmer rotor on high speed braking? Mine developed strange vibration after set of bluestuff(they lasted about 3000km). Around 1000km on first set of pads they developed strange vibration/sound. I checked them with micrometer if they are warped and its all in spec. Resurfaced them on mill by myself and slaped new set of pads and they still got strange subtle vibration and strange grinding sound on high speed braking(140kmh+)