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Kamyk's i30N PB Performance Pack

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I still don't know will one of lambda sensor be long enough.
Both holes are from opposite sides - inlet/outlet but if you see OEM downpipe one of the sensors is let's say "more inside catalyst".
I told about it to my hyundai technician and we will see it tomorrow.
After mount I need to drive some in the city (test stops and turning on/off the engine a lot of times) and next day I will drive about 100km to my dyno-man.
He told me that ecu calibration may not be needed but after dyno everything will be known.
He's the man who told me to test cold/hot start/stops and drive about 150km to check CEL.
PS here is oem downpipe with lambdas....
111.jpg
 
It says on the HDT website "Das Kabel der unteren Lambdasonde muss verlängert werden da eine originale Positionierung der Lambdasonde nicht möglich ist." which after google translate it means "The cable of the lower lambda probe must be extended as original positioning of the lambda probe is not possible."

If the 2nd sensor will not be mounted, you will have CEL.
For this you have to extend the (4x) wiring about 10-15 cm ?
 
menlab said:
It says on the HDT website "Das Kabel der unteren Lambdasonde muss verlängert werden da eine originale Positionierung der Lambdasonde nicht möglich ist." which after google translate it means "The cable of the lower lambda probe must be extended as original positioning of the lambda probe is not possible."

If the 2nd sensor will not be mounted, you will have CEL.
For this you have to extend the (4x) wiring about 10-15 cm ?
Click to expand...
I know about that but here on forum someone has the same downpipe from HDT and he didn't need to longer the wire.
 
kamyk155 said:
I still don't know will one of lambda sensor be long enough.
Both holes are from opposite sides - inlet/outlet but if you see OEM downpipe one of the sensors is let's say "more inside catalyst".
I told about it to my hyundai technician and we will see it tomorrow.
After mount I need to drive some in the city (test stops and turning on/off the engine a lot of times) and next day I will drive about 100km to my dyno-man.
He told me that ecu calibration may not be needed but after dyno everything will be known.
He's the man who told me to test cold/hot start/stops and drive about 150km to check CEL.
PS here is oem downpipe with lambdas....
View attachment 14433
Click to expand...
Generally speaking, a downpipe doesn't require a tune. :)
 
Oh, of course. A downpipe is easy horsepower and torque. Torque can be adjust thru tuning and limited as well. Won't bother the clutch, as long as you're not launching the car from a dead start regularly.

I've owned only one car that ever spun a clutch because of torque and that was a Shelby GT500. Did it at around 1800 miles and they installed a newer model GT500 clutch and the problem was completely nullified after that.:)
 
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R Veloster N said:
Oh, of course. A downpipe is easy horsepower and torque. Torque can be adjust thru tuning and limited as well. Won't bother the clutch, as long as you're not launching the car from a dead start regularly.

I've owned only one car that every spun a clutch because of torque and that was a Shelby GT500. Did it at around 1800 miles and they installed a newer model GT500 clutch and the problem was completely nullified after that.:)
Click to expand...

Last time I asked my dyno-man - what will happend if there will be 320hp max turbo score - time for turbo change or if there willl be 500Nm - clutch change ? Or maybe worth to lower the scores by ecu software.
He answered me - start to think about it when your car will have 50k km on the clock or something just start to be wrong and then buy better clutch or think about turbo modification.
 
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I wouldn't be concerned about it, unless you're constantly abusing the clutch. Normal driving including running the car at higher speeds isn't going to cause an issue. Like I said, just don't continuously launch the car from a dead start or utilize the launch control. :)
 
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kamyk155 said:
My last score was 310hp/475nm so...... it is close.
Click to expand...
In my experience of fitting a 200cel sport cat down pipe with flex pipe, it produced an extra 8bhp over stock. So it may be close to your 320 goal
 
Dan_bush27 said:
In my experience of fitting a 200cel sport cat down pipe with flex pipe, it produced an extra 8bhp over stock. So it may be close to your 320 goal
Click to expand...
In my case - remove gpf plus new flexpipe and gpf back remus exhaust - gain was 17bhp nad 25nm. So new downpipe only I think maybe another 5bhp and maybe 10nm but we will see it in friday.
 
May I ask you what your goal is?
Seems to me that you want to just achieve most possible power based on the limit of the turbocharger.

You won't notice a big difference regarding fun if you have 10bhp/10nm more or less.
I better recommend to limit the power due to durability.

If you want big numbers to "pose" with you can't avoid to upgrade clutch and turbocharger.
 
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c4bl3 said:
May I ask you what your goal is?
Seems to me that you want to just achieve most possible power based on the limit of the turbocharger.

You won't notice a big difference regarding fun if you have 10bhp/10nm more or less.
I better recommend to limit the power due to durability.

If you want big numbers to "pose" with you can't avoid to upgrade clutch and turbocharger.
Click to expand...
My goal was steady 300/450 but last dyno just shocked me.
I always think about safe scores for the car but if you know I changed a lot of parts.
Now the only problem is - it is great but isn't it too much.
Few people told me to not worry until 50k-60k km on the car clock.
I asked one of the tuners about - what about lowering the scores after mounting downpipe to lets say 310hp nad 450-460nm.
He told me - it will longer life of your clutch and turbo for lets say 5k km more - is it worth it ?
Let it like that and if there will be problem with the clutch - just buy better one.
If there will be problem with turbo - upgrade it.
PS - I still have warranty for all the mods from hyundai - it is a long story...

For now - all those upgrades are just futureproof - maybe next year turbo upgrade, maybe stronger clutch - we will see.


PS - I still have last one visit to their hyundai dyno-tuner for check ecu (maybe somekind of calibration)after the whole exhaust change.
 
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It always depends on your driving and what you use the car for.
I know somebody who drives ~510nm on the stock clutch for about 20tkm now. But he isn't driving on the track. He drives regular on the street and sometimes a bit faster on the highway.
On the opposite - have 450nm and run on the track frequently and your clutch won't live long.

Also. All the numbers you see or hear are just peak numbers. Maybe for about 100-250rpm.
In my opinion its much more important to have a decent ecu tuning.
The car is front wheel drive and don't have the best traction in 1st and 2nd gear (unless you drive uhp or semi tires).
So better to limit the torque on the lower rpm and put it to the higher rpm where the car is missing the power on stock ecu.

I just have 296bhp and 450nm but the car drives so much better now. Punch in 1st and 2nd gear is almost like stock but at about 4500rpm it really goes. Managed to get mid 14s now 100-200kph.

Hope it's not too much offtopic :D
 
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I think I will not concern about too high HP or Nm in my case.
This is my daily car - it have a really low milage - less than 10k for now.
I'm just driving work - home (about 20km per day only) and only sometimes longer trips plus we still have corona party from start of the year... I have luck for now that I don't need to go to work like before in my normal i30 2017 - it was 60km in one way so thats why so low milage I have now.
Everything will be known after friday dyno. Then I can make an appointment for my last hyundai dyno and ecu calibration in the case of too high scores.
 
Car is ready. New gaskets again stinks like dead burning rat but I'm extremly happy.
At first - much more noise. I drove home on N mode and I was afraid - with opened window it was MONSTER sound and I tought - my god it is too loud. Then I turned on normal mode and did the same revs - great and quiet car !!
I just love it.
Tomorrow I will drive the car some to burn the new gaskets and catalyst and friday morning - dyno check.
I will record some video with new downpipe - I will try to do it from the same place as before - I have videos from my last dyno test without downpipe so maybe there will be possibility to compare.
 
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The downpipe looks nice. A full decat pipe would get you closer to your required power, but would require the O2 sensors coding off. A sports cat generally doesnt need the O2 sensors coding out.
Torque is easily limited by mapping/controlling the way the turbo delivers its boost.
I bet the car sounds epic. Mine sounds great just with a GPF delete.
 
H13ONN said:
The downpipe looks nice. A full decat pipe would get you closer to your required power, but would require the O2 sensors coding off. A sports cat generally doesnt need the O2 sensors coding out.
Torque is easily limited by mapping/controlling the way the turbo delivers its boost.
I bet the car sounds epic. Mine sounds great just with a GPF delete.
Click to expand...
My car with gpf dummy and rest of exhaust sounds great and mega loud but now with full exhaust with downpipe it is armageddon in N mode.
 
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