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Suspension and Chassis TURBO TECH RACING/Upper (AVAILABLE) & Lower Motor Mounts for Veloster N and i30N!!

A customer contacted us today, as we do not publish the factory bolt toque specifications for the upper mount; as they are not our "bolts/nuts", they are Hyundai...

Does anyone know factory torque specifications on the upper engine mount bolts and nuts? We do not have a service manual to reference. Just trying to help everyone out. Thanks in advance!
 
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Typically ships 24-48 hours after you order. They are powder coated and assembled per order. Tracking emailed soon, thank you!

we did notice you ordered just the upper, which is fine; However it is recommended to use our lower mount as they were designed to best work together :) maybe you have it already.

Is there any particular reason that you guys didn't also do an Upper Motor Mount for the transaxle side (driver side) of the engine? Is the rubber OEM setup on the transaxle motor mount pretty stiff, thus not needing increased rigidity? I am looking into purchasing your Upper Motor Mount and I already have an upgraded RMM. However, I am hesitant to upgrade 2/3 motor mounts and not the third. I pulled the trigger quickly on an RMM because it simply limits the back and forth movement of the engine but it is not actually load-bearing. However, the upper motor mounts are so, therefore, I am a bit more cautious.

Also when installing your upper mount is it possible to assemble the mount completely before installing on the vehicle? Or must one torque down the bolt (160 ft-lb) holding both pieces of the upper motor mount together while the mount has been fitted to vehicle?
 
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The white looks great! I am so glad I picked white seeing that I own a white VN. This thing with the black bushing is gonna look awesome in the engine bay.

IDK, I am the type to purchase what looks like it "goes" with the car. Depending on the shade of blue they use, I would go with blue. If the blue is really dark then I'd go with black with a black bushing. Just my opinion. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Best regards,

-Mike

Saw the pictures of your upper motor mount on @Mikemr305 's thread. Haha the white actually looks amazing, good choice.
 
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Is there any particular reason that you guys didn't also do an Upper Motor Mount for the transaxle side (driver side) of the engine? Is the rubber OEM setup on the transaxle motor mount pretty stiff, thus not needing increased rigidity? I am looking into purchasing your Upper Motor Mount and I already have an upgraded RMM. However, I am hesitant to upgrade 2/3 motor mounts and not the third. I pulled the trigger quickly on an RMM because it simply limits the back and forth movement of the engine but it is not actually load-bearing. However, the upper motor mounts are so, therefore, I am a bit more cautious.

Also when installing your upper mount is it possible to assemble the mount completely before installing on the vehicle? Or must one torque down the bolt (160 ft-lb) holding both pieces of the upper motor mount together while the mount has been fitted to vehicle?

As we emailed you back a few minutes ago:

We have not yet developed a side mount for the driver side. It may come someday. Most everyone does the lower rear strut mount. Then those who want more get the driver side upper mount. It has been proven with good results in which these 2 mounts stop most all the drivetrain movement.

For simplicity, it will be super hard to hold the mount and try to torque the center bolt out of the car... That is why in our included instructions we show how to torque it, while the mount is in the car.
 
As we emailed you back a few minutes ago:

We have not yet developed a side mount for the driver side. It may come someday. Most everyone does the lower rear strut mount. Then those who want more get the driver side upper mount. It has been proven with good results in which these 2 mounts stop most all the drivetrain movement.

For simplicity, it will be super hard to hold the mount and try to torque the center bolt out of the car... That is why in our included instructions we show how to torque it, while the mount is in the car.

Thanks for the quick reply guys. You might receive another order on the Upper Motor Mount, from me, very soon haha.
 
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Ha, ha... I didn't know the torque specs either but used a bar type torque wrench to remove them and came up with almost the same torque specs. lol... The two black bolts on the front of the mount towards the motor I torqued to about 65 ft lbs. The aluminum one right beside it I torqued to about 45 to 50 ft lbs. The two going in to the body I torqued to 65ft lbs and the rear black one under the coolant tank I torqued to about 45 ft lbs. The BIG middle bolt I torqued to 150 ft lbs +. It all worked and I didn't know the specs so I just looked at the bar when removing the bolts. It worked just fine and nothing moves.

The upper mount is the BOMB!!! No need for a driver side mount....
 
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As we emailed you back a few minutes ago:

We have not yet developed a side mount for the driver side. It may come someday. Most everyone does the lower rear strut mount. Then those who want more get the driver side upper mount. It has been proven with good results in which these 2 mounts stop most all the drivetrain movement.

For simplicity, it will be super hard to hold the mount and try to torque the center bolt out of the car... That is why in our included instructions we show how to torque it, while the mount is in the car.
The drivers side mount is solid, so there really no advantage to make another. Can't see it either, as it hidden on the drivers side. Aaron, I wouldn't waste your time frankly.
resource
 
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I agree Red. Absolutely no need for a driver side mount. I think you would get rid of any comfort quite frankly if you replace that one. I feel like you will undo what you wanted to do in the first place. The TTR motor mount coupled with aftermarket firmer lower bushings or the TTR lower mount and it will be great. If there is no movement and no NVH then why change the driver side one? That one looks like a PITA to change anyway. No thanks... lol...
Br,

-Mike
 
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The drivers side mount is solid, so there really no advantage to make another. Can't see it either, as it hidden on the drivers side. Aaron, I wouldn't waste your time frankly.
resource
To clarify, the driver's mount is one piece but is not solid--the center bolt is suspended in the mount in webbed rubber. In high power cars with sticky tires, that may cause some wheelhop. That said, I think an insert would probably be a more cost effective solution than an entire replacement mount. Or you could go old school and fill the voids with 3M Window-Weld.
 
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I agree Red. Absolutely no need for a driver side mount. I think you would get rid of any comfort quite frankly if you replace that one. I feel like you will undo what you wanted to do in the first place. The TTR motor mount coupled with aftermarket firmer lower bushings or the TTR lower mount and it will be great. If there is no movement and no NVH then why change the driver side one? That one looks like a PITA to change anyway. No thanks... lol...
Br,

-Mike

What do you mean by "undo what you wanted to do in the first place"? I think it depends on what you are looking for. Usually, when you do motor mounts you are going to sacrifice comfort for performance. Usually, people, won't do motor mounts for fear of sacrificing comfort. The car feels too much like a "race car". Now obviously with softer bushings, one would be able to find a balance between performance and comfort.

I asked TTR the question because I see on their site that they have developed left and right motor mounts for other platforms in the past. Also, I am more familiar with replacing all motor mounts in one go. I am not saying it's wrong or right etc etc. I think that's another discussion but that is what I am familiar with.

Furthermore, there is the argument out there that changing the stiffness of the other two mounts and not the third will alter the way the transaxle mount experiences vibration possibly leading to it failing prematurely. Of course, the other side of the argument is that decreasing powertrain movement will actually preserve the OEM transaxle rubber mount as it doesn't experience the same magnitude of deflection etc. I am more of the belief that it will actually help to preserve the OEM mount. However, some folks won't do one at a time. It's either do all the mounts at once or leave them alone and keep them stock.

Screen Shot 2020-04-30 at 5.05.12 PM.png

One can see here from their site they are advertising both left and right upper motor mounts for the Ford Fiesta ST platform. So I was simply curious as to why they had not done the other motor mount for our vehicle yet. I wanted to know if they had evidence that the transaxle motor mount was robust enough to match up with the other 2 stiffer mounts.

To piggyback a bit on what @Alfresco said:

To clarify, the driver's mount is one piece but is not solid--the center bolt is suspended in the mount in webbed rubber. In high power cars with sticky tires, that may cause some wheelhop. That said, I think an insert would probably be a more cost effective solution than an entire replacement mount. Or you could go old school and fill the voids with 3M Window-Weld.

Down the line, after adding more power to the car the transaxle OEM mount could become a weak point based on the fact that it is less stiff than the other two mounts. I believe you guys and I am sure that you guys are not feeling any motor movement. However, replacing the transaxle mount could only make the powertrain even more secure. I wouldn't dismiss it completely depending on what you are looking for out of your vehicle. I know @TurboTechRacing has considered the idea of developing one so I don't believe the idea is too far fetched. :)

Also, I am not too sure how difficult it would be to install the transaxle motor mount as long as you can prop up the motor properly. If you are referring to having to remove the intake, battery, ECU, battery tray and move some cables out of the way its a breeze. I can literally take it all out and put it back in 20 min flat. If there is an extra extremely cumbersome step someone please inform me.

Anywho, I ordered my mount yesterday in Yellow (wanted to be different). Can't wait for it to come and it's already in the mail! Doing the RMM was already a drastic improvement so I'm looking forward to this mod. :)
 
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I think most people want no wheel hop, no vibrations, and no harshness? The TTR motor mounts provide comfort and performance. The only thing is you can hear the motor more, that is it. I am sure you will love it. I'm just not sure if it will get rid of all the NVH with the Boomba rear mount. Put it on and see what happens. If you get NVH then I'd switch the the TTR one.

Also, I was in NO way trying to get anyone mad. I was just giving an honest opinion. Sorry if I offended anyone.

Br,

-Mike
 
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I think most people want no wheel hop, no vibrations, and no harshness? The TTR motor mounts provide comfort and performance. The only thing is you can hear the motor more, that is it. I am sure you will love it. I'm just not sure if it will get rid of all the NVH with the Boomba rear mount. Put it on and see what happens. If you get NVH then I'd switch the the TTR one.

Also, I was in NO way trying to get anyone mad. I was just giving an honest opinion. Sorry if I offended anyone.

Br,

-Mike

Oh I'm not offended at all. You are A-okay man. No offense taken. Just trying to exchange information. Sorry for the long-winded response but this stuff excites me haha. I can't speak for the group of VN owners but I know personally I don't mind some NVH. As long as the car isn't shaking my rearview mirror back and forth I am generally good haha. The car really feels good right now.

Another member was telling me about the vibration that installing a solid mount like the Boomba would cause with my vehicle. Even the owner of Genracer was telling me that the Boomba mount was going to be night and day compared to my pressed inserts. However, I don't believe the NVH is bad AT ALL. It is extremely livable. (Creeping with the clutch and getting going does cause a nice shutter though haha). I actually first had some powerflex bushings and some superpro bushings that I pressed into the OEM motor mount. However, there were no instructions with the superpro bushings so the install didn't go as planned. I did not remove the OEM shell that the OEM rubber bushing was bonded too. So my superpro bushings never seated correctly with the crush sleeve installed. I tried to contact superpro for assistance but never received a response haha. See below:

F2F15707-8F75-4782-89E2-D6C0FCEBD890.JPG5771D651-C709-4ACD-B467-881AB69092BC.JPG743AD8FF-EA7F-44BE-91BA-3903DA700394.JPG

Anyway, I was able to squeeze the OEM mount on with the gaps (I actually had to jack the damn mount into place because of the pressed in bushings) to test and see if the inserts got rid of the vibration in the gear knob I am getting with my Boomba short shifter plate. The inserts didn't help my gear knob shaking issue while in 3rd gear so I just kept the mount on so I could drive while waiting for the Boomba RMM. I will remove the OEM sleeve that is still pressed into the OEM motor mount and reinstall the superpro bushings as a side project. Might end up selling the whole thing to someone who is interested. Anyway, I am really hoping the TTR upper mount will kill my gear knob shaking/movement. I really like the Boomba short shifter setup but I cannot deal with how much the gear knob vibrates/moves while in 3rd gear. It is very unsettling. It's so strange because I got the shaking before installing shifter bushings or the RMM. It appears that engine movement is the issue and the shifter cable length actually can't appropriately accommodate the geometry change of the short shifter plate. Sadly, I might have to go with Forge if I can't resolve the issue.
 
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I have no experience with the Boomba rear mount but I did install an already broken-in Sxth Element rear mount on my VN the other day (transferred over from my old Elantra GT N-line) and the increase in NVH was very little. Barely enough to notice honestly.
 
I have no experience with the Boomba rear mount but I did install an already broken-in Sxth Element rear mount on my VN the other day (transferred over from my old Elantra GT N-line) and the increase in NVH was very little. Barely enough to notice honestly.

Exactly, I had a similar experience with the Boomba. This is no surprise to me as the designs are similar. I am waiting for my Boomba RMM to break in and after I expect very little difference in comfort.
 
See, I am an old fart! I don't mind the noise but the vibrations and harshness is something I just can't live with. Honestly, my car is set up supurb for the kind of driving I do. The only thing I am considering is the Ttr lower mount. I'm not sure because my car has no shaking or vibrations. I love it! Nice and firm, no wheel hop, and no vibrations. This is the best of both worlds.
 
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See, I am an old fart! I don't mind the noise but the vibrations and harshness is something I just can't live with. Honestly, my car is set up supurb for the kind of driving I do. The only thing I am considering is the Ttr lower mount. I'm not sure because my car has no shaking or vibrations. I love it! Nice and firm, no wheel hop, and no vibrations. This is the best of both worlds.

😂😂😂. You have the powerflex bushings on the RMM? Have you done any clutch dumps? I understand man everyone has their preferences. For example others don't seem to mind the extra vibration on the shift knob caused by the Boomba short shift plate. I literally cannot stand it. It drives me mad 😂.
 
To clarify, the driver's mount is one piece but is not solid--the center bolt is suspended in the mount in webbed rubber. In high power cars with sticky tires, that may cause some wheelhop. That said, I think an insert would probably be a more cost effective solution than an entire replacement mount. Or you could go old school and fill the voids with 3M Window-Weld.
Your thinking of the trans mount, not the upper driver's mount. The trans mount is never to solidly mounted due to torque impact.

Further, let's keep the discussion on track, without the side streets. This thread is not about the Boomba or Powerflex Bushings, lower mounts, use or installation. If someone wants to talk about them specifically, use the search engine, find the appropriate thread and direct your comments there or start another thread.

This thread is specifically about the ; Turbo Tech upper and lower motor mounts. If there aren't questions, specific data or direct experience to share about them, please take other discussions elsewhere. If not, I'll ask the moderators to remove the posts.

Let's get back on track.:)

 
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