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Kamyk's i30N PB Performance Pack

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That difference between your first dyno run and stock run done yesterday, does not come because of money you spent to intercooler and intake :( Difference comes from huge difference of ambient temperature of August and March. There is more than 20-degrees of difference and it will play very big roll on dyno bench what does not have proper cooling fan. Lets go to my friends dyno and you will see how your power curve will not drop down on 4850rpm. Your car makes more than 310bhp at the moment and main reason of power drop is heat soak on that dyno. Because your IAT is rising to clouds, ECU will back off ignition timing and the result is peak power point 1000rpm lower than you had with stock map.
Please trust me because my car made 10% less power on that dyno but same amount of torque.
Regarding your Hyundai guy - do not trust people who does not know what they are talking about. Your clutch does not last long but as you wrote - it is not your problem because your dealer Margo will keep your warranty (not Hyundai Motor Poland) and it is their problem to find another N, they can write down parts they must replace on your car.
 
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loafer-N77 said:
Eh? How did you manage that?!
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Hard to say ;) I did all modifications in hyundai and still asked about parts and what can I do to my car to not void warranty. After months of asking I got official permission for modifications and after next few months for ecu tuning (all in their service).
PS - I have first and only one N in my city (250k people).
 
TarmoT said:
That difference between your first dyno run and stock run done yesterday, does not come because of money you spent to intercooler and intake :( Difference comes from huge difference of ambient temperature of August and March. There is more than 20-degrees of difference and it will play very big roll on dyno bench what does not have proper cooling fan. Lets go to my friends dyno and you will see how your power curve will not drop down on 4850rpm. Your car makes more than 310bhp at the moment and main reason of power drop is heat soak on that dyno. Because your IAT is rising to clouds, ECU will back off ignition timing and the result is peak power point 1000rpm lower than you had with stock map.
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What about my dangerous high torque ?
 
I saw it.
PS. my technician guy told me that permission is not from Margo - it is from upper most important Hyundai guy but don't want to tell me.
 
kamyk155 said:
I saw it.
PS. my technician guy told me that permission is not from Margo - it is from upper most important Hyundai guy but don't want to tell me.
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I talked with Margo about your car and there is no “more important Hyundai guy” it is just Margo Gdynia who gives you that warranty. I have spent much more money in Margo Gdansk (I have bought 4-cars from them) and they does not want to fix even my gearbox main shaft bearing what stated to make noise before I made any moddifications on my car. So it looks like I must visit also Margo Gdynia ;)
 
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TarmoT said:
I talked with Margo about your car and there is no “more important Hyundai guy” it is just Margo Gdynia who gives you that warranty. I have spent much more money in Margo Gdansk (I have bought 4-cars from them) and they does not want to fix even my gearbox main shaft bearing what stated to make noise before I made any moddifications on my car. So it looks like I must visit also Margo Gdynia ;)
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Wow. I bought only two cars from them 😄
Ok - what to do with my high torque ? As you know I'm not a racing driver and this is my typical car "from home to work" and some joy with "fast pop and bangs starts" mostly 0-100km/h ;) - need to worry about clutch ?
 
R Veloster N said:
Will worrying about it help? Just run the car until the clutch starts to slip, then have it replaced with a stouter aftermarket unit.:)
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That's sounds good but you need to know one thing - TarmoT have a better clutch and he is my guru.....but I don't always listen to him even if he got right 😜
 
I know, it's obvious.:p He runs a sachs single disk clutch.

Now, when I said, "until it slips," don't wait until the clutch has trouble engaging or spins before it catches. If you really want to keep the OEM clutch intact for a while, don't even think about launching the car from a dead stop.:oops: Doing so, will be the quickest way to tear it up.:)

There are others available;

XClutch MOTOSPORT 7.25" CLUTCH KIT/ FLYWHEEL/ SLAVE CYLINDER;

xclutch725__58011.1573657158.jpg

XCLUTCH STAGE 1 PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT/FLYWHEEL/SLAVE CYLINDER ;
XKHD24631-1A__43079.1557882991.JPG


First thing I did with the VN, I didn't want to play catch up later on. However, use what you want.
 
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I will make you a proposal - lets go to my tuners place and put your car on dyno. Lets see how much power it actualy makes and lets get confirmation for my theory.
I am a bit worried because that 514Nm will point to one thing - your tuner pushed peak boost close to 1,7bar and deleted baro sensor fault code from your ECU fault code list.
Using so much boost is not good because of 2-reasons:
Your stock clutch
Your stock turbocharger does not handle that boost long because you are not using racing oil and does not change your oil after each 5000km
So you might finish with that kind of “surprise”:
7442F96B-B7B8-4460-8857-E40C04C6F059.jpeg
 
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Yes - this is the same place I told before.
I'm ready to go there anytime - but need to call them and ask about time because of our coronavirus warnings and restrictions.
 
kamyk155 said:
Yes - this is the same place I told before.
I'm ready to go there anytime - but need to call them and ask about time because of our coronavirus warnings and restrictions.
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Dont call - I will talk with Szymon tomorrow and will find out when he has time for us. I will let you know in private message tomorrow
 
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