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TarmoT 385bhp/526Nm i30ntracktoy - SOLD

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R Veloster N said:
If it's a lithium and the proper charger is utilized; quite a bit longer. I've used them in motorcycles for a long time. They hold up much better than an AGM battery. Produce similar cranking amperage and recover much quicker from starting and charges.

The only thing you have to make sure of is; the battery is warm. You can't let them get really cold. When they're really cold, you have to turn over the motor longer to warm them up or utilize a battery warming blanket. It's the nature if Lithium batteries.

Best thing to do in really cold weather is; leave them hooked to the appropriate charger. It will automatically cycle the battery to retain heat.
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can you provide an estimate? how cold does it have to be before you start seeing problems with the battery?
 
R Veloster N said:
If it's a lithium and the proper charger is utilized
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You took my words - for winter time when my car stands anyway, oem battery will go back ;)

And it is not just saving weight, it is also making car balance better. I30n has much more weight in front of car than in rear. My rear end sits lower than front because of same reason - tried to transfer more weight to rear end of car.
 
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:D
Replacing it with the OEM is a good choice. I figured you'd say this and didn't want to take your thunder so to speak!:p I did the same for my motorcycles as well.

@TamoT, just don't be like me and forget to keep the OEM top off, with a charge regularly!:p Yea, been there done that too.:)
 
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Today we also made one test about absolute min weight of my car. We removed passinger seat and roll cage. With battery and new brake discs, we managed to reduce 27kg, passinger seat another 11kg and roll cage 27,5kg. So absolute minimum with 1/2 tank of fuel, was 1336kg
 
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R Veloster N said:
:D
Replacing it with the OEM is a good choice. I figured you'd say this and didn't want to take your thunder so to speak!:p I did the same for my motorcycles as well.

@TamoT, just don't be like me and forget to keep the OEM top off, with a charge regularly!:p Yea, been there done that too.:)
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My car will spend 5-months (from Nov to Apr) in HRE German workshop where they have plenty of time to develop some interesting race spec stuff for our cars. I will remind them to take care of battery every single month ;)
 
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I am sure that 1300kg is possible to reach with lightweight body panels + lighter brake calipers. So 1299kg is our target for next season ;)
 
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What is your goal?
Keep it as a daily and track car for weekend's or transform to a race car?
 
My goal is to make it as close to the track car but still keep ability to drive it to race tracks on 4-wheels. I don’t need that car for daily.
 
Hi Tarmo , if you could only do 1 or 2 things to your engine what would you do ? I am going to track my car stock for the First Event then get a spare set of wheels and fit R Spec tyres and will get Brake cooling ducts as well. I have had lots of success running Stock cars and always making sure my brake pads an fluid is fresh as well as engine oil. TCR Australia are running at Sandown this weekend and I will be driving at this track the following week. Cheers
 
alpiv64 said:
Hi Tarmo , if you could only do 1 or 2 things to your engine what would you do ? I am going to track my car stock for the First Event then get a spare set of wheels and fit R Spec tyres and will get Brake cooling ducts as well. I have had lots of success running Stock cars and always making sure my brake pads an fluid is fresh as well as engine oil. TCR Australia are running at Sandown this weekend and I will be driving at this track the following week. Cheers
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It is very dificuilt to give you good advice but aftermarket downpipe + good remap will be perfect first steps.
 
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