I wouldn't call those brake pad prices reasonable at all. I recently bought some blueprint {febi bilstein} pads for £40 and a pair of discs for £65
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To be fair, if you’re a short arse like me that £80 is probably worth it£80 for wiper blades?!
Time for my sixth service now. It's based on time and not milage. Guess the price they want at the local Hyundai shop. 700 euros. Only the OEM sparkplugs is almost 300 euros and the standard oil (shell Helix) is 180 euros.
So i did order oil by myself, same oil as the dealer is taking 180 euros for. I did only pay 65 euros. Same with the sparkplugs, hks plugs for 130 euros. Now I'm saving almost the half price of the whole service by buying the stuffs online instead of the dramatic prices the dealer is taking.
So i did order oil by myself, same oil as the dealer is taking 180 euros for. I did only pay 65 euros. Same with the sparkplugs, hks plugs for 130 euros. Now I'm saving almost the half price of the whole service by buying the stuffs online instead of the dramatic prices the dealer is taking.
Has anyone with a GPF delete took their car for a service and the dealer or the garage said anything about it?
Hi as my car i30n performance is going in for 2nd year service which they call the the big service. Just wondering is it worth doing a engine flush on it with hyundai as they recommend it and break pads treatment where the brake pads don't corrode. Can someone give me advice to help me decide as I have booked it in for Thursday. I've heard alot of different things about engine flush where some people say its not worth it and so on. My car has done 1300 miles estimate on the clock. Thanks
Is this the dealership recommending it? Sounds like them just upselling stuff. Never had it on my previous one and never had any problems.
Not required at all at that mileage.
Dealership trying to get more money out of you, nothing more.
Dealership trying to get more money out of you, nothing more.
I am curious, when is an engine flush/coolant flush required? I've never done it ever in my old cars (old as age, old as design, old as in >200-300k miles) and I'm not sure it's required in new cars. I've always changed the fluids per fluid manufacturer spec and that was it (not car manufacturer spec, since at times it goes way longer). Never had any issues with anything. No sludge in the engines (both diesel and gas), no clogged cooling pipes, no brake dying on a steep hills descend where rotors start glowing.
Is it just companies trying to sell us more stuff or modern cars have different design therefore different requirements? I'm all into proper maintenance, but I'd rather spend money on something that's useful rather than a gimmick ... useful as in more gas.
Is it just companies trying to sell us more stuff or modern cars have different design therefore different requirements? I'm all into proper maintenance, but I'd rather spend money on something that's useful rather than a gimmick ... useful as in more gas.
With that mileage the engine is new. Absolutely no need for an engine flush.
Maybe I am not using the correct wording.60-65K miles for coolant.
Flush, as-in change the coolant, while making sure as much as possible of it is changed? Or flush, as-in doing the same procedure but using some type of additive as well? Additive/substance that is meant to clean somehow the cooling system.
To me "flush" is the change + additive, not just a simple procedure of old coolant out -> new coolant in.
60-65K coolant change, flush or whatever you wish to call it. The procedure is the same. Coolant flushing or changing is a process, that simply requires time and new coolant.
Using an additive such as water wetter or other can be accomplished anytime. Flushing the radiator and coolant requires new to be added in the system.
Most coolants now have anti-corrosion qualities and additives which resist corrosion buildup. Flushing the complete system for this purpose is unnecessary.
A simply change of coolant suffices.
He asked about coolant specifically, not engine flushing.
