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Engine Oil discussion thread

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Same condition, same time, no engine startup between. When I found out the different readings. Did over 3 checks which were consistent.
 
But it's just fluctuating between these two points, it's not going down right?
 
Right not going down, but wondering which is the more accurate. In my logical opinion it must be the higher level.
 
These days it’s becoming a novelty to even have a physical dipstick.
 
p1ccoLo said:
For all those who were wondering. The correct part-no. is 263502M000. Thats the complete kit with everthing you need for oil service, except the oil of course.
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You can get the OEM Kia Hyundai filter off the USA Kia parts store and they will ship to me (UK) for around £20. As far as I can tell this is the correct part number, the OEM part is not available in Europe yet, at least if your not in the motor trade. Alternatively you can get cheaper unbranded filters but the quality is obviously unknown. Hope this helps.
 
So I know the manual states to run the car in for 600 miles keeping the revs and speeds sensible, and that the first oil change is then done at 10k.

Has anyone opted for a post run in 600 mile oil / filter change? If so did you go to Hyundai? Any issues since etc…?

Thanks. 👍
 
X-Plosiv said:
Any service will gladly do maintence at 1000 km because it's money for them. Most of us did it as well mate, so go for it.
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I wouldnt say most have done it, I've heard of maybe 2-3 opting for it. Seems pointless to me if the run in has been gentle - if you were redlining it from day dot or snuck in an early track day within the first 1000km, it might be worth it.
 
TomBoyNI said:
So I know the manual states to run the car in for 600 miles keeping the revs and speeds sensible, and that the first oil change is then done at 10k.

Has anyone opted for a post run in 600 mile oil / filter change? If so did you go to Hyundai? Any issues since etc…?

Thanks. 👍
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Not saying Hyundai does this, but it is fairly common practice for manufacturers nowdays to put up numbers on their manual that aren't really good for the car in the long run. They afterall want to sell you a new engine after the warranty is over. While I don't know if 600 mile oil change is necessary, I'd certainly change the oil more often than 10k.
 
I know very little about engines, but the oil seems to be very clean and in a very good condition at the oil changes every 10.000 km.
 
Hello had the car at the dealership for first oil change after break-in period. They filled up to much oil, dipstick says 14mm over max. marking. I sucked about 770ml of oil, know the level is just fine, 1 dot line under max. marking.

Problem since I got the car back, I've noticed that now it nearly permanently shakes on idle, before that oil change it used to do a very subtile little shake once like every 10-20 seconds.

How is idling on your engines?
 

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From what I've read here oil overfill is very common for the dealerships. ~1cm overfill is nothing unheard of and I've never heard of any actual issues caused by it. I'm not surprised to hear they would do it even if you specifically tell them not to, as if they just dump the 4,8 liters in and call it a day.

I have some concern with your picture as the oil seems to have some metallic sparkle in it. I'm not sure, it may or may not be normal for break-in, but the oil was just changed!

The manual specifies that the oil must be 0w-20 that meets AT LEAST the API SN Plus specifications with API SP and/or GF-6 being preferred. Mine was filled with Total Quartz 0w-20 EC6 last time which I double checked beforehand from the dealer as I don't trust them. Previous times they had used API SN Plus and I checked it every time.

Check this: https://lubricants.totalenergies.co...value/quartz-engine-oil-e-brochure#QuartzXtra

You mentioned in another thread that yours was filled with Total 0w-20 EC5 which I think does not meet the car requirements unfortunately. Still I don't think it's likely that this would cause immediate issues as the API SN Plus is there mainly only for LSPI protection.

The change in idle characteristics can be many things. My concern would be that was the oil specifications the only thing they messed up?
 
The EC5 will also meet the requirements, but Shell is known to be better. Maybe it runs generally smoother with the Shell, the metallic flakes could be from break in period, and the oil which stays in the cooler and turbo piping or from the new oil suction pump. I think that there settled much more oil aerosols through the overfilling on the map sensors, maybe MAF via the crankhouse venting, or at least the vanos shit had kavitated oil in the oil flie causing some serious friction damage.
 
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