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Engine Oil Catch Cans

View attachment 6857

Interestingly, yesterday I did a finger wipe check of the factory rubber intake tube insides, as well as that of the compressor inlet elbow. No oil residue whatsoever, as in zip, zero, zilch, nada, bubkus...

No cans needed here.
Lmfao! Good job mate. I must admit you made me second guess myself as I used to run in rebuilt V8 muscle car engines as per your method when I was into that sort of thing, when I was young, when gas was cheap and that's what all the old hi-po engine builders recommended. I followed factory run in recommendation on the N thinking times and technology had changed. Maybe not, but that is why I asked the question of @BLKI30N (great response). Sort of thing that keeps me me up at night, lol.
 
@BLKI30N, as a mechanic, would you then recommend a pcv delete connection like I described in the previous page? This way the intake valves should be cleaner, but probably the turbo compressor wheel won't be ?!
 
I meant it’s another opportunity for me to cause more controversy, not you. BTDT. I support skyventing efforts in the name of performance.
 
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@BLKI30N, as a mechanic, would you then recommend a pcv delete connection like I described in the previous page? This way the intake valves should be cleaner, but probably the turbo compressor wheel won't be ?!
No I wouldn’t recommend as if the catch can does it’s job the intake valves should stay clean anyway. Without the oil residue in the inlet tract the carbon should have nothing to stick to.
 
After installation a can on the PCV hose, I hear a bit more turbo sounds and blow off valve :oops:
I am sure the whole system is closed, I pressure tested the can and sealed where needed.
 
I meant it’s another opportunity for me to cause more controversy, not you. BTDT. I support skyventing efforts in the name of performance.
Skyventing hmmmmm, sounds like old hotrod tech from decades ago. It didn't do anything then for performance, other than release emissions to the air.

Just shows you, what is old becomes new to other generations. Doesn't really do anything for performance. Considering the 2.0T Theta II motor has less than 1% fuel/oil dilution, (a trace for lab testing) a catch can or skyventing isn't really needed. It was hypothetical then, when we were building hotrods and still is now.

However in some states, you'll get a big fine for such efforts. Calistan (California), Oklahoma, Ohio etc. Especially these, as the Highway State Patrols are tight as dicks hat band on modifications. It's strictly against CARB regulations.
 
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Make sure you use suitable hoses! I used oil/air hose. Since installing the can i smell a gasoline vapor when idling. Hoses smell of fuel when i tough them. Gonna replace them asap
 
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Ok so the car has finally got to 5,000kms and I can update regarding the catch can. I let it drain for 2hrs and this is all that came out of it. The other hose to the intake pipe was still spotless (I removed the 2nd catch can a while ago) and as such a catch can on it is still not required.
In my opinion the small amount of oil caught would have easily been ingested by the engine over the 5,000km with little effect. I have now changed the oil and filter and will check again and report back next service.

FYI the car has been running a RaceChip for approx 3,000km and does a lot of short trips <20kms. My wife does drive it well and doesn’t baby it, and on the weekends I clean out the cobwebs just to be sure

Jamie. View attachment 6856
This is nothing and goes to prove the 2.0T Theta II motor can easily deal with the fuel/oil dilution issue without a CC. 3000 miles and this negligible.
 
My main purpose of a cc is to reduce the oil/water crap deposits on the intake valves, while the car operates in vacuum (idle or cruising)
 
Actually, with a slight correction and caveat; as oil and fuel mix, from blow-by in the cylinders and in oil pan, they're recycled as unburnt fuel from the PCV, as a vapor. This vapor is washed over the intake valves and creates carbon deposits on the valves. This amount if over 4.0 ppm, can cause problems with too much carbon build up on intake valves. Which will require, regular chemical valve, FI and intake cleaning at 15K intervals and a major head tear down, @ around 75K for walnut blasting.

There is only a 1% ppm dilution in the 2.0T Theta II engine, which in lab testing is a trace. It's even demonstrated @ 3K miles by one of our CC using contributors, (post #56) and isn't needed.
 
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And my catch can installed. I'll get nicer clamps later.
64297376_947833655552231_6395411156504150016_n.jpg64348147_795255694202141_8213931370834034688_n.jpg


Added: the hoses are ID/OD (mm):
PCV side: 8/15
Manifold side: 14/22
They have a light steel mesh and an outer jacket for up to 150oC, which also makes it look oem-ish.
Next step is to get AN-like fittings (hose finishers) and those clamp that hold the hoses together for cleaner install - and not use tire ups
 
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Haven't decided yet if I'll invest in one. I really don't know, if it will accomplish anything long term. Just have to wait and see.
 
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Thanks for the photos of this. Can I ask what sort of driving conditions during those 3000kms?
Your current total mileage?
Average air temp in your area ? I live in AUS where temps are not very cold.
Highway driving or stop/start?
Driving time / distance per day? Short trips or longer drives?
Economical driving style or performance driving style?
Any modifications made to the engine apart from the catch can?
The photo of the residue is interesting from the point of view that nearly all residue that I have seen from other users (not i30N specifically ) are an oily and watery emulsion. This appears to be just black oil.
Sorry for so many questions but I am sure that many forum members would be interested in your answers also. :cool::)

Just reviewed some of your earlier posts and by the look of it I cannot relate your car to a standard i30N given the modifications.
 
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Thanks for the photos of this. Can I ask what sort of driving conditions during those 3000kms?
Your current total mileage?
Average air temp in your area ? I live in AUS where temps are not very cold.
Highway driving or stop/start?
Driving time / distance per day? Short trips or longer drives?
Economical driving style or performance driving style?
Any modifications made to the engine apart from the catch can?
The photo of the residue is interesting from the point of view that nearly all residue that I have seen from other users (not i30N specifically ) are an oily and watery emulsion. This appears to be just black oil.
Sorry for so many questions but I am sure that many forum members would be interested in your answers also. :cool::)

Just reviewed some of your earlier posts and by the look of it I cannot relate your car to a standard i30N given the modifications.

Ok, I will try to answer to all of your questions ;)
1. Driving conditions - 60% on tracks, 20% on the road outside of town and 20% inside of city.
2. Average air temp in our area has been around 22-degrees but during last track days we had 30+
3. Driving time - it is not my daily driver, so very difficuilt to tell
4. Driving style - 80% of time like a mad person
5. Modifications - intake, intercooler, BOV, remap for 321,4 BHP
So, no worries for stock i30n users - you can still sleep well ;)
 
Ok, I will try to answer to all of your questions ;)
1. Driving conditions - 60% on tracks, 20% on the road outside of town and 20% inside of city.
2. Average air temp in our area has been around 22-degrees but during last track days we had 30+
3. Driving time - it is not my daily driver, so very difficuilt to tell
4. Driving style - 80% of time like a mad person
5. Modifications - intake, intercooler, BOV, remap for 321,4 BHP
So, no worries for stock i30n users - you can still sleep well ;)
Thanks for this feedback. Your residue makes sense given the usage pattern of your car.
60% track running will drive out most of the water from the crankcase and lots of that right foot action will force some oil up through the PCV system and therefore in your catch can.
Thanks again :cool::)