The decent cans that are baffled are expensive!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122227151217
This is what I ran on my car it’s baffled and has done a fantastic job as seen by my pic above lol.
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Engine Oil Catch Cans
- Thread starter richard strong
- Start date
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122227151217
This is what I ran on my car it’s baffled and has done a fantastic job as seen by my pic above lol.
I am using that can:
https://image.dhgate.com/0x0s/f2-al...man-universal-aluminum-oil-catch-tank-can.jpg
https://image.dhgate.com/0x0s/f2-al...man-universal-aluminum-oil-catch-tank-can.jpg
How’s it work ? I looked at this one before deciding on the mishimoto
Just ordered the saas catch can. Wich is funny since saas means sauce in Dutch dialect
Let's catch that sauce!
Let's catch that sauce!
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This is the sign of a proper break-in where the rings have sealed very well. Easy/lenient break-ins (i.e., following the manual to the letter) often result in significant blow-by if the rings don’t seal well from “babying it.”
As I said in a similar thread, a heated AOS that returns oil to the oiling system (usually the pan), letting the water vapor and fuel vapor pass through without precipitating out is best.
Catch cans should be on both the breather outlet and PCV outlet. The more lenient the break-in (insufficient ring seal), the more blow-by results and more contents (oil, water vapor and fuel vapor) will be produced. Keep the cans warm as with the AOS to minimize water & fuel accumulation.
The problem with either of these are that in order to install them, you have to modify emissions systems, which is illegal. At that point, you might as well skyvent...
Hi, sorry for late reply I haven’t been on here a lot lately. Recently I have removed the second catch can from the intake side as after 2,500km there was not a drop of anything in it and the hose was clean. I removed it as the hoses required were quite long and I didn’t see the point in leaving it in place if it was doing nothing. I will reinstall later on if any oil appears in the hose.
The can on the pcv hose had only a small drip of oil in it, not even enough to catch in a cup. It just dripped on my finger when I removed the drain bolt. No water condensation at all. I will check it again at 5,000km and report back if anything worth mentioning is in it.
I used the sass baffled can as in above post, around $100 from Autobarn, along with oil/fuel resistant hose. Also used 90 deg fittings to prevent kinks where required.
I had the catch cans fitted at the first service (at which I also had the oil changed) and the dealer was not fussed by them being there. Really the worst thing that could happen is if it was to somehow block up would be to pressurise the crankcase and potentially cause seals to leak, not going to cause total engine failure or anything like that. That’s an extremely unlikely event in my opinion.
9mm and 14.5mm, those the hose sizes you went with on this? Install looks good.
Could use some advice.. Would the following PCV deletion work ok?
1. Block with a 14.5mm ID hose plug the intake manifold.
2. Remove the PCV and replace with a straight barb fitting (is it NPT type ???).
3. Route the previous barb to a baffled oil catch can and the outlet to the intake pipe, where the other hose also connects to the valve cover.
Thanks
.. Would the following PCV deletion work ok?1. Block with a 14.5mm ID hose plug the intake manifold.
2. Remove the PCV and replace with a straight barb fitting (is it NPT type ???).
3. Route the previous barb to a baffled oil catch can and the outlet to the intake pipe, where the other hose also connects to the valve cover.
Thanks
I love threads like this, I love learning as I read, especially about these cars
Ok so the car has finally got to 5,000kms and I can update regarding the catch can. I let it drain for 2hrs and this is all that came out of it. The other hose to the intake pipe was still spotless (I removed the 2nd catch can a while ago) and as such a catch can on it is still not required.
In my opinion the small amount of oil caught would have easily been ingested by the engine over the 5,000km with little effect. I have now changed the oil and filter and will check again and report back next service.
FYI the car has been running a RaceChip for approx 3,000km and does a lot of short trips <20kms. My wife does drive it well and doesn’t baby it, and on the weekends I clean out the cobwebs just to be sure
Jamie.
In my opinion the small amount of oil caught would have easily been ingested by the engine over the 5,000km with little effect. I have now changed the oil and filter and will check again and report back next service.
FYI the car has been running a RaceChip for approx 3,000km and does a lot of short trips <20kms. My wife does drive it well and doesn’t baby it, and on the weekends I clean out the cobwebs just to be sure
Jamie.
Thanks, interesting. Did you stick to the 'take it easy' factory running in recommendations or punish it from the get-go @Cygnus X-1 style?
Took it fairly easy for the first 1000kms but gave it the occasional blast also, It was not a textbook run in as such. We always warm it up fully before pushing, and also let it cool for 30 sec-1min before turning off. That should have helped with the run in too and continue long term.
The easiest and cheapest thing is regular oil and filter changes. As the oil gets older the amount of blow by increases. If left for 10,000kms as per log book I would expect much more in the catch can in the second half of the interval than in the first.
The first oil change was done at the 1000km service by Hyundai (you must ask for it to be done- and pay obviously) then I will do a service in between each logbook service myself.
Being a qualified mechanic (semi retired lol) helps, as the dealer can’t use me servicing the car as an excuse with any warranty claims should they arise, as I am certified to carry out log book services.
I have always serviced every car I’ve owned at 5,000kms and so far this has proven itself, as I’ve had no engine issues in any car even a few heavily modified ones in the past. It’s just something I’ve always done and I believe it is the key to long engine life.
Interestingly, yesterday I did a finger wipe check of the factory rubber intake tube insides, as well as that of the compressor inlet elbow. No oil residue whatsoever, as in zip, zero, zilch, nada, bubkus...
No cans needed here.
Thanks for the response man. I insisted on oil and filter change at just under 1500km (first service) and will be doing the same at 5000k which is where it is at right now. Just gotta wait until I get back from this quite awesome holiday i've just begun in Cairns (wish I drove here, some amazing roads) and then she's into the dealership for just that.
Wish I was equally qualified as an oil and filter change is a no-brainer, but I am warranty void risk-averse. Again, thanks
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