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My thoughts on the Veloster N PP coming from a MK7 Golf R

Was the pre load already adjusted on this? (I know you can adjust manually) and how much are you recirculating? Fully?

They come with preload adjustment screwed all the way in -- and the manual recommends running it as tight as you can as long as you don't get flutter on lift above 3K RPM. I don't, so I run it this way.

Yes, fully recirculating -- I am not a fan of the blow-off noise on a daily basis.
 
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They come with preload adjustment screwed all the way in -- and the manual recommends running it as tight as you can as long as you don't get flutter on lift above 3K RPM. I don't, so I run it this way.

Yes, fully recirculating -- I am not a fan of the blow-off noise on a daily basis.

Thanks for clarifying that mate:cool:
 
What's the purpose of these BOVs? Is it just for the noise or they they fix some sort of issue?
 
An aftermarket Blow Off Valve (BOV) is generally used in higher boost applications than what is used in VN. The OEM boost valve can't handle higher boost, without damaging the diaphragm. With this said, it also aids in quicker boost recovery, during shifts and is certain more reliable and precise.
 
I've had a handful of M cars and am coming from a MK7 GTI PP, this car is not only significantly sharper than the MK7 but has more intangible "weight" to the ride, it is authoritative on road in a way the VW just doesn't feel.

The throttle response is far better now that the Veloster is broken in, but I also drive the car much harder than I did the GTI as my commute has changed.
 
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Great information here, thanks everyone for taking the time to share your experiences. Oddly enough I am cross-shopping the VN against Rs (used ones that is).

I've lusted after a Golf R since the introduction of the R32 in '04. Just barely chose a mkVI TDI over one in 2013. In my opinion the mkVI R was good not great. Didn't make VR6 sounds, didn't have a ton of power, was horribly inefficient. The mkVII mostly fixed that.

I had a 2016 6MT R Turo rental for a little over a week and frankly loved it, but you completely nailed the short comings of the controls and character of the car. I fell in love with the R32, but the modern R feels (and is priced) to be Audi-Lite instead of VW-Hardcore. It's a wonderfully competent daily driver, but not something I would sit at my desk and daydream about driving.

So, thanks for reminding me that the R is not what I'm looking for. Hopefully I can finally secure a V-N test drive and see what the fuss is about.
 
So I picked up a pedal tuner to try out. I really think the R needed it. Improved the response greatly and removed the dead spot at initial tip in. I'm not convinced it's needed for the N, however. It seems ok in normal mode, but in sport and N mode, even at its lowest setting, it removes the linear feel of the pedal. The dead spot is maybe half of what the R has, so it's already tolerable. I miss the throttle modulation that's missing without the linear input...
 
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Wow. This is pretty damn spot on. Coming over from a 16' VW GTI Manual [PP] 60K miles. Obviously not as much power as the R and I did have an e-LSD on the front end as it was only FWD. I spent every day in the GTI and drove it considerably. The thing never felt sporty enough for me. You are correct it felt like a GT car. Car liked sweeping turns more than anything else, lost confidence and felt floaty at high speeds, had considerable body roll with the OEM suspension setup, the steering wheel was way to light, and the shifter felt like play-doh. I had to keep modding and modding the car to get it close to the setup I was hoping for. Shorter throw shifter, bushings for the shifter, lowered the car on VWR springs, turned up the grip on the e-LSD with OBDEleven tweaks, and put on a good set of wider than factory 235/40/18 BF Goodrich Comp 2's. The biggest mod for me by far was the lowering of the car and the increase in grip of the e-LSD. Allegedly the more aggressive software setting for the e-LSD was the same setting used in the GTI Clubsport. I say all that to say I could have kept modifying the car endlessly. I didn't even get to a tune yet before the motor crapped out at 60k due to intense carbon buildup and oil leak issues around cylinder 4. Also I am glad somebody , SOMEBODY has been truthful about the interior in the MK7. Nice interior but my God was the leather on the steering wheel and seats CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP. At 60K my seats were already starting to crack and my steering wheel starting to fade. Mind you this is with me constantly conditioning and cleaning the leather for attempted longevity. I too bought my MK7 at the end of Dieselgate and got a 32K car for roughly 24.5K. At that price point the old MK7 was a good choice but I would absolutely , absolutely not spend 32K again on a VW GTI SE. This is simply way to much money for what you are getting. Mind you the maintenance and the components needed to fix the darn thing will cost you an arm and a leg. I know, I did regular oil changes myself, tire rotations, dropped the car, brake bleeds, catch can installs with pcv plate upgrades etc etc etc. Not to mention I needed a valve cover gasket replacement, new intake camshaft, a couple of new valves, roller rocker arms etc etc. Minus my maintenance woes the GTI simply does not come close to the Veloster N in terms of driving dynamics it has to offer. Even with the e-LSD the GTI still understeered a ton. I love the suspension setup, steering wheel, shifter, clutch, more power, wing, rev matching, EXHAUST, etc. on the N. It just overall seems like a more competent car. The turn in and grip are unreal (can't wait to swap off the OEM tires though lol). I can carve around some corners around my way confidently at very very high speeds with no complaints from the N at all. The drawbacks in the interior, sunroof, heated seats etc. are wellllll worth what you get in terms of driving dynamics for a car that was under 30k for the 2019 model year. Also I actually enjoy the interior, its simple, easy to clean, nice feeling shifter, wheel, seats, and pedals. Not to mention the performance blue, wing, and exhaust get me attention EVERYWHERE I go. Hyundai knocked it out of the damn park. One month in driving the N and I'm blown away. Bravo.
 
What's the purpose of these BOVs? Is it just for the noise or they they fix some sort of issue?

Lmao I'd love to know this as well. In my experience so far coming from a MK7 GTI blow off valves were just for noise. These cars have diverter valves for a reason. I know New German Performance (tuner shop in the DC area in America) always told us that the stock diverter valves on the GTI's would handle any type of boost you could throw at them. Now with that being said and me being new and ignorant to the Hyundai Theta II engine platform I would love to know how strong/weak our diverter valves actually are. But until I hear they are particularly weak I will assume BOV are just for noise.