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Issues with 5th/6th gear (and 1st/2nd)
- Thread starter David Barrett
- Start date
Ok so update to my 6th gear issue:
After lots and lots and lots of driving I finally had the issue again. This was expected; afterall we did not change the gear linkage cable towards the back of the car (that cable is responsible for vertical shifter movement). So I went ahead and set the same gap as I did on the front-cable: 1.85mm (aka the thickness of a two pence coin (don't ask me how, but @WoLf130 had one at home
)). Right of the bat the 2nd, 4th and 6th gear felt smoother, so I am now hoping this solved the issue longterm. Keep in mind these measures are with the Forge short shifter installed.
Regarding the fix without installing the Forge short shifter: Corona is currently blocking us from trying it on the other car. Will update you guys when we adjusted the cables.
After lots and lots and lots of driving I finally had the issue again. This was expected; afterall we did not change the gear linkage cable towards the back of the car (that cable is responsible for vertical shifter movement). So I went ahead and set the same gap as I did on the front-cable: 1.85mm (aka the thickness of a two pence coin (don't ask me how, but @WoLf130 had one at home
)). Right of the bat the 2nd, 4th and 6th gear felt smoother, so I am now hoping this solved the issue longterm. Keep in mind these measures are with the Forge short shifter installed.Regarding the fix without installing the Forge short shifter: Corona is currently blocking us from trying it on the other car. Will update you guys when we adjusted the cables.
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So the gap on both cables is now the same?Ok so update to my 6th gear issue:
After lots and lots and lots of driving I finally had the issue again. This was expected; afterall we did not change the gear linkage cable towards the back of the car (that cable is responsible for vertical shifter movement). So I went ahead and set the same gap as I did on the front-cable: 1.85mm (aka the thickness of a two pence coin (don't ask me how, but @WoLf130 had one at home
Regarding the fix without installing the Forge short shifter: Corona is currently blocking us to try it on the other car. Will update you guys when we adjusted the cables.
As I understand it the lh cable is for sideways movement and the rh one is for fore and aft movement. That's looking from the front of the vehicle.
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Ok so 1-2nd and 5-6th gears didnt work properly with my car when changing gears. About 2 months ago phoned to dealer and said i had problems with 2nd, 5th and 6th gears going in smoothly everytime. They said they will ask about the problem with hyundai. Then the dealer wanted to test drive it so they could diagnose the problem. They had the same problems i had complained about and they ordered new syncros etc for the gearbox. Let see if it will get fixed after the maintenance booked next month. Now i will get my first test of how good the guarantee truly is. Will post more after the fix is done.
It is possible to have a nice smooth gearchange on the N mine is perfect in every gear so there is no reason why yours shouldn't be after the fix, though why some are good and others like yours bad is a bit of a mystery I would love to know what they did differently with mine that makes it different to yours because it shows they can get it right whether it's the parts that are defective or the assembly process who knows.
Made even more confusing by the fact that some folks gear boxes start of rubbish (like mine) and now after little more than 1,500 miles it's like I'm driving a totally different car!
Fair enough, there's the age old comment about it getting better with age (rather like wine). But I've had many, many cars in some 40+ years of driving and I've never had one with a gear box that starts off this bad and it's character changes so quickly!
If it was an early QA problem, or bad batch of gear boxes etc... then you would have thought later cars would be OK. But mine is an MY20 (and "yes" I have checked the build date to conform this).
Weird...
Fair enough, there's the age old comment about it getting better with age (rather like wine). But I've had many, many cars in some 40+ years of driving and I've never had one with a gear box that starts off this bad and it's character changes so quickly!
If it was an early QA problem, or bad batch of gear boxes etc... then you would have thought later cars would be OK. But mine is an MY20 (and "yes" I have checked the build date to conform this).
Weird...
Must admit after reading various tales of woe about the gearbox it just does not seem possible they are talking about the car I drive but they are and frankly it's baffling, some on here maybe are being a little fussy in what they expect but it can't be all of them, has anybody come up with the definitive answer? as I have heard at least 3 different solutions that have been tried. Hyundai just seem to try changing different parts as if they have no idea either.
No sir, there is no definitive answer. There is no definitive "car" as such. Further, this is not a Merc or a Beemer or some such (and even they have random issues). It is a machine built by humans and robots designed by humans so no two will be alike. Thus we all go round in circles. Still.
As you and @mikeo suggest the car you drive now is different from the one you drove off the showroom floor. Mine is the same, it feels more "fluid". I'm sure a few have had the synchro issue for real as they report no issues after said fix and there was a TSB out on it. Mine always just felt like it had a linkage issue rather than a synchro issue; it was just "tight". I've said this before. I suggest again - give it 10,000km to loosen up in every conceivable way. What have you got to lose (?), it's warrantied to hell and back. Since I hit 10K km mine has been a dream. She burns hard, loose and clean. I even reckon the abuse has twisted her such that the panel gaps have aligned somewhat, but that could just be my imagination
Installed my short shifter today and have given it a brief test drive. I removed the airbox as well as the ECU and battery and tray to give the best access. I originally set the pins to halfway in their slots and tested it before replacing everything, I'm glad I did as the side to side was much too stiff for my liking, I removed that part and moved the pin to about 3mm from the end furthest away from the spline but not as long as the stock distance, side to side was now much better. Loosening and tightening the securing bolts on the spine was interesting, I ended up using a 4mm Allen key in the two holes in the S shaped linkage which meant I could jam it up against the gear box whilst tightening and loosening the nuts. First impressions are good, got a decent run tomorrow to a customer and it's all cross country so will report back again.
I didn't alter the cable lengths at all, thought I would suck it and see.
I didn't alter the cable lengths at all, thought I would suck it and see.
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Had a fairly decent run yesterday, not as free flowing as I would like as I got stuck behind lorry after lorry, things I've noticed, twice now it hasn't gone into first cleanly, i.e. you think it's in but it actually isn't. This is probably due to me not being used to it as even though the backwards/forwards gearstick movement is much shorter the force required is correspondingly greater.
Once you're humming along though the change is fine, I'm going to trial it for a week to see if I want to keep it.
It's down to actual taste I feel, the movement is shorter definitely, but the effort required is greater.
It maybe a case of attuning to the throws, most of my driving is work related and accordingly relaxed and I don't need lightning fast changes. If I'm going for it that's a different matter, I had an opportunity yesterday to slot into custom mode and the new gearchange suited that down to the ground.
So the jury's still out, will report back in a week.
Once you're humming along though the change is fine, I'm going to trial it for a week to see if I want to keep it.
It's down to actual taste I feel, the movement is shorter definitely, but the effort required is greater.
It maybe a case of attuning to the throws, most of my driving is work related and accordingly relaxed and I don't need lightning fast changes. If I'm going for it that's a different matter, I had an opportunity yesterday to slot into custom mode and the new gearchange suited that down to the ground.
So the jury's still out, will report back in a week.
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You may be able to get rid of the problem by changing the length of the shifter cables. Just pull back the bit with the spring and push up the part inside a bit, then you can adjust the length freely.
That will be my next step if I'm not happy after acclimatising to it.
I wish there was a documented adjustment method.
Thanks Jim, I'm slightly nervy about installing it tbh as my gearchanges have always been sweet. No issues getting gears at all.
Just want it a touch shorter.....keep us informed!
try to stick to the adjustment method I posted here: https://n-cars.net/forums/threads/issues-with-5th-6th-gear.131/page-20#post-79740 (second pic)
That's the recommendation from Forge. I adjusted both shifter cables to have a gap of about 1.85mm - for me this solved the issues.
Got around to adjusting the shift cables this evening, also a chance to get the battery felt cover the correct way round, it has an arrow which needs to point up and sits at the front, I had mine back to front.
Anyway I measured the gaps before adjusting them, the side to side cable had 10mm and the front to rear had 3.5mm.
To adjust, pull back on the spring and using a fingernail under the bellows side of the cable hook the pink clip upwards, you can then slide it easily. I used the 2 pence coin trick and adjusted both to 1.85 mm, reassembled and tested, much nicer change now, had a blast on our deserted roads and it was lovely, no issues slotting into any gear at all.
The nicest thing about the shifter is it's adjustability, just slacken off the post and slide it up or down to suit. Only took an hour start to finish and no need to remove the airbox at all, you can get the battery clamp off and on without major difficulty.
Anyway I measured the gaps before adjusting them, the side to side cable had 10mm and the front to rear had 3.5mm.
To adjust, pull back on the spring and using a fingernail under the bellows side of the cable hook the pink clip upwards, you can then slide it easily. I used the 2 pence coin trick and adjusted both to 1.85 mm, reassembled and tested, much nicer change now, had a blast on our deserted roads and it was lovely, no issues slotting into any gear at all.
The nicest thing about the shifter is it's adjustability, just slacken off the post and slide it up or down to suit. Only took an hour start to finish and no need to remove the airbox at all, you can get the battery clamp off and on without major difficulty.
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and another case where the shift cable adjustment solved the shifting nightmare, good job
