Correct. I wanted to know if the original rim needs a ring or not. I guess notYep, my info also gives 67.1mm. The ring pictured above doesn’t exist with the stock wheels and is provided with aftermarket wheels so they can fit a number of different bore sizes. The outer diameter depends on the wheel manufacturer and it is the inner diameter that is the issue. I’m afraid I’m not clear on what you want to know?
No, mine definately didn’t have them (I say didn’t because I now have aftermarket rims that did need rings).Correct. I wanted to know if the original rim needs a ring or not. I guess not
You gotta be kidding me, I just bought braid wheels thinking I wont need to buy rings…Our original hub is not 67.1 mm
I bought original braid wheels with centerbore that Hyundai claims (67.1mm) and guess what… that is space between wheel hub and car hub and of course some vibration on up to 120km/h
I had to buy aluminum rings made with the perfect size to fit properly the hub of the car.
My measure was 66.9 mm.
No is not a jokeYou gotta be kidding me, I just bought braid wheels thinking I wont need to buy rings…
Do you have link for aluminium rings maybe?
That’s not true, rings have only the function to help fitting correctly the rim. Actually alloy is worse as they might get stuck and are harder to remove. If you properly tight the nuts the rings are actually not necessary, but they do help to be sure everything is centeredImportant, only go for alloy rings! No plastic!
Agreed on the plastic, although I haven’t had issues despite the front wheels of this car literally become lava at the track (brake cooling WIP)As you trash the car as it should be, plastic melts away or changes its form. Normally bolts should center enough alone but, same with spacers that haven't a center hub, you get vibrations. The bolts need a static hub to take all of the forces seriously!
I think the plastic ones for normal driving are safe. For track and long spirited driving the risk of melt is bigger.Agreed on the plastic, although I haven’t had issues despite the front wheels of this car literally become lava at the track (brake cooling WIP)
For the forces not really, bolts simply do not take shear forces, what keeps the wheel attached to the hub is only the friction force between the two metal surfaces of hub and rim.
With very roughy math, 120Nm of nut torque means 5000kg of clamp load per nut (see here), so for 5 nuts that’s 20000kg. With a nominal friction coefficient of 0.15 that amounts to 3000kg of friction force keeping together hub and rim. The weight of the car per wheel is roughly 300kg, so you have a 10x safety factor. Even if you jumped with the car you’d likely break something else before the friction between hub and rim fails…
Nope, it’s frictionAbout the hub, the rings are not just for center the wheel. All of the weight in every corner, jump of suspension, are supported by the center hub of the car if the hub wheel match the last one. If there is a space between this two, all of the weight is supported by the lug nuts.
Maybe not broken on 100 first attempts but on track and spirited drive is certainly big risk. One more thing, the vibration is guaranteed and is not a good sign.
What the experts have done was this:I just want to check that I'm reading the above correctly.
Your new wheels have a bore size of 67.1mm (the claimed Hyundai hub diameter) and your hubs measure 66.9mm, so you had aluminium rings made that are only 0.1mm (less than 4 thousandths) thick to take up that 0.2mm difference? Is that correct?
Yeah, as you imply, that can’t be the case.I just want to check that I'm reading the above correctly.
Your new wheels have a bore size of 67.1mm (the claimed Hyundai hub diameter) and your hubs measure 66.9mm, so you had aluminium rings made that are only 0.1mm (less than 4 thousandths) thick to take up that 0.2mm difference? Is that correct?