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Engine How To: Swap exhaust valve spring
- Thread starter izybluffen
- Start date
My question is the opposite: how do I make sure the valve stays closed?
I'd like to choose Sport without the exhaust changing.
Well, I received the upgraded spring from ASR and either it's not compatible with the our i20n or I'm dumb.
I swapped the OEM spring with the ASR one, started the car in normal, no rattle, put it in N mode it does more noise and doesn't rattle so seems to works so I decide to go for a drive.
At first it seems to have solved the issue but after swapping between N mode and normal mode a bunch of time I had no change in exhaust noise so went back home to check the valve and it was stuck in closed position.
I decided to let the car cool down before going down on the valve again.
Went back again to check the valve and the spring had unclipped itself. Clipped it back in screw everything back and I start the car again.
Car start in normal > valve is closed ok
Put the car in N mode > Valve open ok
Put the car back in normal > hear the valve moving but it stay open and won't close again
Went back and forth between N and normal mode and the valve stayed open all the time
So I decided to put back the oem spring
Car start in normal > valve is closed ok
Put the car in N mode > Valve open ok
Put the car back in normal > Valve is closed ok
Went back and forth between N and normal mode and the valve opened and closed each time correctly
As anyone else swapped their oem spring with asr one ?
I swapped the OEM spring with the ASR one, started the car in normal, no rattle, put it in N mode it does more noise and doesn't rattle so seems to works so I decide to go for a drive.
At first it seems to have solved the issue but after swapping between N mode and normal mode a bunch of time I had no change in exhaust noise so went back home to check the valve and it was stuck in closed position.
I decided to let the car cool down before going down on the valve again.
Went back again to check the valve and the spring had unclipped itself. Clipped it back in screw everything back and I start the car again.
Car start in normal > valve is closed ok
Put the car in N mode > Valve open ok
Put the car back in normal > hear the valve moving but it stay open and won't close again
Went back and forth between N and normal mode and the valve stayed open all the time
So I decided to put back the oem spring
Car start in normal > valve is closed ok
Put the car in N mode > Valve open ok
Put the car back in normal > Valve is closed ok
Went back and forth between N and normal mode and the valve opened and closed each time correctly
As anyone else swapped their oem spring with asr one ?
I tried again the spring since it was bothering me that it wasn't working for me and I found the issue
I had clipped the spring on the blue part instead of the red part so it was no sitting properly.
Everything is now working as intended
I went to my dealer to have them check this and a few other things.
They did 2 test drive and said there was no issue with the valve.
I didn't want to lose time arguing with them to replace it with the same spring that would only last 6 month again so that's why I ordered one from ASR.
I have a small question - how bad can be the rattle in exhaust caused by this spring ?
What kind of sound it make ? I have some kind of rattle with sound like vibrating metal sheets jumping on each other.
It is mostly audiable at start of the car on normal mode for lets say 10 seconds and can be stopped by touching the exhaust tip by the shoe. Mounts of the whole exhaust looks like they holding good - without loose.
What kind of sound it make ? I have some kind of rattle with sound like vibrating metal sheets jumping on each other.
It is mostly audiable at start of the car on normal mode for lets say 10 seconds and can be stopped by touching the exhaust tip by the shoe. Mounts of the whole exhaust looks like they holding good - without loose.
I have the same rattling after cold start , it's very loud when You stay near muffler , when revs go below 1k it gets quieter but still at little use of throttle pedal it sounds like a little bell (or maybe it is flap noise)
Probably after weekend I will verify some other valve spring with higher dimmension , because I think stock spring is to small and at cold and higher revs it shakes with flap
Probably after weekend I will verify some other valve spring with higher dimmension , because I think stock spring is to small and at cold and higher revs it shakes with flap
There are no 'benefits' as such to the change, you may just reduce the chance of failure due to it being a little more robust than the OEM spring. The advantage lays in the fact that ; if your vehicle develops the exhaust valve rattle, you can purchase a replacement spring on its own rather than claim via Warranty, whereby Hyundai will probably replace the entire back box for this minor issue!
Just installed the upgraded spring after installing an RPM performance axle back on my car. The valve has had a very loud rattle and this is still an issue. It's worth noting I've got an x-force resonated midpipe, which I had before ordering the axle back, and the car at the minute is producing a huge amount of drone in the cab, which is something I'm beginning to plan on getting an exhaust shop to work on. Was wondering whether the valve rattle is likely either due to me installing the spring wrong, or whether it could be the drone or axle back that's causing the problem.
2020 i30N Performance fastback Australian model hence mid pipe instead of a gpf delete
If it sounds clattery like a marble in a bean can then it'll most likely be the spring. The spring has to fit in a certain way and it can be incredibly fiddly to get it sitting in both slots properly whilst replacing the motor. If you have an RPM system try removing the end piece and fit the spring/motor whilst it is off the car - it makes it easier to view how the spring is sitting by shining a torch down the gaps of the valve motor. The spring can then be tweaked into the slots with a screwdriver if needed, whilst still applying downward pressure to the motor. Then it's just a matter of putting the end piece back onto the exhaust system and connecting the motor's plugs...
Just swapped mine 10 minutes ago, only took 10 miutes to do, hopefully free of the awful rattle now, bought from Cherry Tuning in austrailia, took 1 week to arrive and paid £45 including delivery, still £30 cheaper than buying from UK suppliers.
I had a go, and the spring is definitely seated in the valve, everything is turning fine too. Here’s a link to the way it sounds. Is this normal? (Heads up the clip is loud)
@wasdfight, did you have the same rattle/buzzing issue with the OEM Spring fitted? Your exhaust sounds exactly like mine after I had the GPF-Back system (and spring) fitted to my KonaN. Swapping the spring back to the OEM one did not resolve the issue either. The buzzing occurred whenever the system caused the valve to close against the inner 'mating' surface and it was as if the flap itself was vibrating against the lip where it meets the exhaust tubing. Tapping the valve with a stick or giving it a nudge with my fingers caused the vibration to stop - until the next change in exhaust mode, whereupon it would start again.
It's a real PITA as it makes the car sound like it has a loose or dodgy exhaust when driving around town in Eco/Normal. I tried greasing the mating surfaces inside and lubricating the spring housing with silicon spray but, none of it worked.
After a whole day of tinkering with it on my driveway and packing the spring housing with silicone grease I thought I'd cracked it - until I was driving with my window open one day and noticed the buzzing bouncing back at me from the walls of houses etc ... In the end I disconnected the valve motor so that it is permanently open and am still running with it like that, because that buzzing did my head in!
Below you'll find links to how it sounded on my KonaN before I pulled the valve plug. I couldn't hear it too well in the first video, so I shot a second one close-up. It won't solve your problem but, at least you know your not alone in this!
Video 1:
Video 2:
It's a real PITA as it makes the car sound like it has a loose or dodgy exhaust when driving around town in Eco/Normal. I tried greasing the mating surfaces inside and lubricating the spring housing with silicon spray but, none of it worked.
After a whole day of tinkering with it on my driveway and packing the spring housing with silicone grease I thought I'd cracked it - until I was driving with my window open one day and noticed the buzzing bouncing back at me from the walls of houses etc ... In the end I disconnected the valve motor so that it is permanently open and am still running with it like that, because that buzzing did my head in!
Below you'll find links to how it sounded on my KonaN before I pulled the valve plug. I couldn't hear it too well in the first video, so I shot a second one close-up. It won't solve your problem but, at least you know your not alone in this!
Video 1:
Video 2:
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i had those from rpm but , only this small works , no rattle from exhaust 
I just got my car back from the dealer today and I told them about the exhaust rattle. They said they will replace the actuator. I told them I’ve researched the issue and that the spring is actually the issue and if the actuator is replaced it will just do it again at some point. Tempted just to let them do it anyway as it’s a new part at their expense? Any chance a new actuator will have an upgraded spring it or something? My car was built June 23 and has 2000km on it. Any downfalls to getting the new actuator (apart from it failing again at some point)?So this is pretty simple, takes less than 5 mins. Get down to the valve actuator, undo 3 x 8mm nuts, (i think its 8) pull the actuator off and this is what you'll see:
View attachment 19695
Then this is the base, you can see the two slots the spring sits in, this is what the spring turns to open/close the valve:
View attachment 19696
Then rip out the old one and bang in your new spring, they just clip in and out:
View attachment 19697
Then put it back together. You dont really need to worry about seating the spring in the slots. It will land in there and once you start the car you will hear a click and the spring is where it wants to be.
Don't worry if you lose some exhaust sound..... The spring is new and more rigid and needs a couple of days to settle. The sound will come back.
This mod will add 20 HP instantly